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gsracer
10-25-2004, 12:45 PM
Do u guys trust your Guess-o-meter (autometer) gauges. I have a electric autometer water temp gauge tapped in to the upper water outlet on the side of the head. My temp ranges from 180-195 when im cruising with the a/c, then 200- 210 degrees when im really on it.

But the thing is my stock gauge reads right in the middle except when i get on it it starts to climb really fast.

Who should i trust the oem gauge or the Guess-o-meter

Mav1178
10-25-2004, 12:53 PM
Never trust the dash gauge.

-alex

gsracer
10-25-2004, 12:59 PM
so then youd say the upper outler on the SR is a good place to get water temp from and nto to worry about it

BlackBomber
10-25-2004, 01:05 PM
so then youd say the upper outler on the SR is a good place to get water temp from and nto to worry about it



yes, that is a perfect position to read the temp from. I also don't know why people don't trust autometer gauges. THey make some cheap gauges, granted but they do have some top of the line electronic gauges. Tell me how many greddy gauges you have seen when seeing closeups of the NHRA drag car's cockpits. NASCAR, NHRA, all those guys run autometer gauges. Now the cheap mechanical ones for like $45 i can see not running very accurate but they have been making gauges for many, many years.

Flame suit ready http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

JimStinksAtDorifto
10-25-2004, 01:21 PM
Because Autometers have poor lighting, it looks like a christmas bulb is behind a piece of cardboard. Also, most of them aren't full sweep so your resolution is poo and harder to read at a glance. Plus, I've just seen too many of the boost gauges that were inaccurate when compared to a quality gauge.

I guess if you're cheap you could use an Autometer oil pressure and coolant temp gauge but please get a Greddy/Defi/etc boost gauge. You can get a Greddy mech boost gauge for only $100.

Personally, I put my Defi Link sensor in the backside of the thermostat housing. That way it will let me know if my t-stat fails, gets an accurate reading, and unlike the upper rad hose placement, you cannot see any wiring. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif I'm just anti upper rad hose coupler look.

threeinchblitz
10-25-2004, 03:00 PM
Do u guys trust your Guess-o-meter (autometer) gauges. I have a electric autometer water temp gauge tapped in to the upper water outlet on the side of the head. My temp ranges from 180-195 when im cruising with the a/c, then 200- 210 degrees when im really on it.


I trust my gauges. they are either blitz or greddy. i would not trust some generica piece of shiz gauge though. like the ones you see at pepboys that have the 3 in 1 single unit gauge cluster. Also i would never trust a gauge that has any sort of flame job on it or neon disco lights. Autometer is reputable. A lot of full race cars run them so i would back it as well as the greddy and blitz.

But the thing is my stock gauge reads right in the middle except when i get on it it starts to climb really fast.

Who should i trust the oem gauge or the Guess-o-meter

BlackBomber
10-25-2004, 03:09 PM
Have you ever used the Autometer Cobalt gauges? They are awesome and are full sweep and have different lighting than the cheap autometer gauges. The cobalt electronic boost gauge uses a MAP sensor good for 35psi and i am willing to bet that it is as accurate as any other gauge on the market.

I do think the $45 boost gauges could be more accurate but the more expensive autometer gauges are far better.

asad
10-25-2004, 03:28 PM
Have you ever used the Autometer Cobalt gauges? They are awesome and are full sweep and have different lighting than the cheap autometer gauges. The cobalt electronic boost gauge uses a MAP sensor good for 35psi and i am willing to bet that it is as accurate as any other gauge on the market.




Yeah, the Cobalts seem like they are nice gauges...but they're as expensive or more expensive than equivalent GReddy or HKS or (insert japanese company name here) gauges. I guess it's just another option, but there's really nothing about them that would make me choose them over anything else.

Asad

BlackBomber
10-25-2004, 04:07 PM
asad, my only point was that not all autometer gauges are crap. i just think that autometer gets a bad rep sometimes and they are one of the only companies that focus on building performance instrumentation. They just also offer very budget oriented products that also do not measure as accurately as the expensive non-budget oriented products. I have the oil pressure, boost, and water temp cobalt gauges but I haven't installed them yet.

Blurple240
10-25-2004, 04:37 PM
IMO, most of the defi/greddy jockies don't even need a gauge as accurate as what they are buying. I gaurantee that 90% of the users on FA would not be able to tell the difference in readings between an autometer or a Defi.

As for a boost gauge, how many people actually tune with one? If you don't, you don't need an expensive gauge. It doesn't have to be accurate as long as it's precise. And in my experiences, the autometers were always precise.

I also find it fairly interesting that most rx7 owners advocate autometer over their expensive brethren, especially considering a rotary is so much more volatile than anything that is sold in or installed in a 240.

_Def_
10-25-2004, 05:26 PM
A reasonable test of the gauges accuracy is to see if it is reading ambient temperature correctly(assuming its range goes down that far). My Defi Link water temp gauge is spot on with the ambient temp to within a degree or two, so I assume it's accurate. It also reads the exact 176*F temp of the stock thermostat opening.

Super accurate gauges aren't all that necessary, but the Defi's IMO are a really nice setup if you know you're going to buy three or more gauges from the get-go. The control unit is a REALLY nice thing to have. I find myself constantly checking peak, and the warning function has saved my ass on almost every gauge I have when something goes wrong and it catches it way before I do. I find myself using the record feature a fair amount as well. It's alot easier to see something like the boost falling down slightly up top or wavering a bit when sitting still than it is trying to stay on the road at the top of 2nd or 3rd gear at WOT.

My experience has been that they were worth every penny, and I get tons of enjoyment out of them. The Defi gauges have to be one of my favorite mods I've got on my car since I can tinker with them to my heart's content.

The few Autometer boost gauges I've seen(cheap, mechanical) didn't seem all that accurate. One was off by more than two psi with the car off!(read high)

fsae_alum
10-25-2004, 05:33 PM
Never trust the dash gauge.

-alex



YEP!! Those gauges are really there not to give you a warngin of impending problems but more like a notice that it's too late and you'll be getting some serious engine work done soon. It's a "You're seriously screwed" notice more than anything else. I too have Defi's and I love them.

gatecrasher
10-25-2004, 06:18 PM
Ive never been a fan of autometer gauges myself, and ive owned several, both mechanical and electric. Ive always liked the greddys as a reasonably priced alternative.

Anyway, the reason you see autometers in all of the NHRA/NMRA/IHRA etc etc cars is because A) It isnt like there is a substantial list of alternative american made gauges to use and B) CONTINGENCY

gsracer
10-25-2004, 06:18 PM
Ok guys i apreciate all your opnions on what gauges are the best and what not , but the question still stands can i trust the autometer WATER TEMP gauge to work corectly. I use my profec b for boost reading http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Trunk
10-25-2004, 07:18 PM
Tell me how many greddy gauges you have seen when seeing closeups of the NHRA drag car's cockpits. NASCAR, NHRA, all those guys run autometer gauges



Tell me how many decent beer sponsors there are in NASCAR. It's not always about what is better.

Let's assume that Autometer does make a gauge of the same quality as Greddy electronic gauges. I think I'd still buy the Greddy because it matches my gauges. Autometers are kinda tacky looking. I don't think I'll ever trust Autometer mechanical gauges because I've seen far too many arrive 1-2 psi off. There's quality control for you.

robbbby
10-25-2004, 07:22 PM
Ok guys i apreciate all your opnions on what gauges are the best and what not , but the question still stands can i trust the autometer WATER TEMP gauge to work corectly. I use my profec b for boost reading http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif



I don't trust my water temp and oil temp since they don't register any reading whatsoever no matter how long my car is on. Maybe the senders are bad, who knows.

I'm sure the autometer temp gauges are just fine as a monitoring tool, especially compared to the dash gauges.

CA19DET
10-26-2004, 08:09 AM
Do u guys trust your Guess-o-meter (autometer) gauges. I have a electric autometer water temp gauge tapped in to the upper water outlet on the side of the head. My temp ranges from 180-195 when im cruising with the a/c, then 200- 210 degrees when im really on it.

But the thing is my stock gauge reads right in the middle except when i get on it it starts to climb really fast.

Who should i trust the oem gauge or the Guess-o-meter



holy christ, your car runs hot or mine runs cold??

i am using a autometer electronic gauge for my water temps and they dont pass 150* F, are my fans working too hard???

i live in the caribbean and its VERY hot...

but anyway, when looking at the data on the haltech and that on the autometer gauge, its spot on, even where we have the fans come on, when you hear them switch on, its at the exact temp on the gauge, while my dahs gauge reads half no matter what, unless its about to blow (experienced with the CA18DE before this DET)

my tach is also about 500rpm off when checking the haltech, and is MUCH slower to respond to rpm/throttle input.

but - is my car running too cold??

cwdmark
10-26-2004, 08:21 AM
i am using a autometer electronic gauge


there's your problem http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

i think autometer gauges suck. poor lighting, poor visibility, and inaccuracy. the only thing going for them is that they are cheap.

im a greddy gauge fan.

jDmTyTeYO
10-26-2004, 08:43 AM
i am using a autometer electronic gauge


there's your problem http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

i think autometer gauges suck. poor lighting, poor visibility, and inaccuracy. the only thing going for them is that they are cheap.

im a greddy gauge fan.



Explain to all of us why Greddy is better then Autometer. I don't know if your vision is 20/20 but I have no problem whatsoever seeing my autometer gauges, at night the lighting seems fine. Inaccuracy????? prove it.

orion
10-26-2004, 09:14 AM
My Autometer Water Temp gauge reads within a few degrees of the ECU temp sensor (based on consult or MDM-100 output)...accurate enough for me.

- Brian

CA19DET
10-26-2004, 09:22 AM
i am using a autometer electronic gauge


there's your problem http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

i think autometer gauges suck. poor lighting, poor visibility, and inaccuracy. the only thing going for them is that they are cheap.

im a greddy gauge fan.



and here is what i stated in my post above, but i guess you missed it http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/cool.gif



but anyway, when looking at the data on the haltech and that on the autometer gauge, its spot on, even where we have the fans come on, when you hear them switch on, its at the exact temp on the gauge,

dryft_s15
10-26-2004, 11:32 AM
150F? That IS cold... My temp stays between 185F and 195F (85C to 90C) on the Defi gauges.

The factory gauge doesn't move from the middle until the water temps get past 230F (110C)

Mav1178
10-26-2004, 11:36 AM
My Techtom MDM-100 r0x.

Good ol' Nissan sensor.

Ub3r accurate, too!

-alex

LOwrestling2001
10-26-2004, 11:51 AM
actually...it moves once u get to about 100 C...according to power fc.

Wiisass
10-26-2004, 12:42 PM
I had the problem with my autometer electric water temp gauge reading 150. But I found out later it was the way I had the sender set up. I drilled a pipe and stuck the fitting in there and the screwed the sender in. It seemed like a similar setup to more people and it was way off. But one day when I borrowed a friend's techtom mdm and it read 185-190.

At that point I decided it was the sender location. And now with the sender directly in the intake manifold (drilled and tapped a hole right next to the stock ecu temp sender) my temps are right on. It usually reads a little over 180 and sometimes goes up.

Also my dash gauge is precise in regards to the autometer gauge. At around 190 the dash gauge reads at the first tick mark. At 210 it's at the 3rd mark. But then at the point it stays there until it gets over 250, which it hasn't yet, but I did have an air bubble in there a while ago and it spiked but dash gauge didn't change from the 3rd mark while the autometer kept climbing.

Tim

CA19DET
10-26-2004, 01:35 PM
I had the problem with my autometer electric water temp gauge reading 150. But I found out later it was the way I had the sender set up. I drilled a pipe and stuck the fitting in there and the screwed the sender in. It seemed like a similar setup to more people and it was way off. But one day when I borrowed a friend's techtom mdm and it read 185-190.

At that point I decided it was the sender location. And now with the sender directly in the intake manifold (drilled and tapped a hole right next to the stock ecu temp sender) my temps are right on. It usually reads a little over 180 and sometimes goes up.

Also my dash gauge is precise in regards to the autometer gauge. At around 190 the dash gauge reads at the first tick mark. At 210 it's at the 3rd mark. But then at the point it stays there until it gets over 250, which it hasn't yet, but I did have an air bubble in there a while ago and it spiked but dash gauge didn't change from the 3rd mark while the autometer kept climbing.

Tim



mine is mounted in the stock location, right on the manifold where the water goers to the radiator,

i think i have my haltech set up to turn on the fans really early as i was running the stock .9 bar rad cap..

robbbby
10-26-2004, 06:10 PM
A little off topic but is their a certain way to install those autometer sender.

My water temp sender is in the upper rad hose and it doesn't start reading anything until the thermostat opens.
Same with my oil temp which I have n my greddy pan, doesn't start showing anything until after a LONG time, and even then it doesn't go to what the actual temp is.

_Def_
10-26-2004, 07:05 PM
A little off topic but is their a certain way to install those autometer sender.

My water temp sender is in the upper rad hose and it doesn't start reading anything until the thermostat opens.
Same with my oil temp which I have n my greddy pan, doesn't start showing anything until after a LONG time, and even then it doesn't go to what the actual temp is.



The water temp sensor is functioning fine. There is no water flow in the upper hose until the thermostat opens.

How do you know the oil temp isn't reading what the "actual temp is?" How are you measuring the "actual temp?"

robbbby
10-26-2004, 07:10 PM
Good points.
I just figured after driving around for 10-15 minutes the oil temp would get higher than 140F, I have no way to measure the temp besides the gauge which is probably right anyways.

And with regards to the water temp, I know nothing is flowing through but until it gets to temp when the thermostat opens the coolant in that upper hose still gets very hot, I just figured it would be at least 120F (Lowest temperature on the gauge).

JimStinksAtDorifto
10-26-2004, 08:41 PM
I guess if you're cheap you could use an Autometer oil pressure and coolant temp gauge but please get a Greddy/Defi/etc boost gauge. You can get a Greddy mech boost gauge for only $100.



I will repeat what I said. I *guess* an autometer temp or pressure gauge isnt too bad if you are cheap because 10 degrees off isnt too sh!tty I guess (ok, it sucks)...but 2psi OFF?! hell no.

I have 5 defi link gauges and a wideband. They certainly cost more than Autometer but everytime I start my car or press peak hold or warning or whatever, i love them all over again. You'd have to spend Greddy prices to get a quality Autometer, so just buy Greddy in the first place.

Did you ever notice that people with quality setups don't run Autometer gauges? Or, if you have a nice car/setup and autometer gauges people just go "HUH?"

_Def_
10-27-2004, 01:21 AM
Good points.
I just figured after driving around for 10-15 minutes the oil temp would get higher than 140F, I have no way to measure the temp besides the gauge which is probably right anyways.

And with regards to the water temp, I know nothing is flowing through but until it gets to temp when the thermostat opens the coolant in that upper hose still gets very hot, I just figured it would be at least 120F (Lowest temperature on the gauge).



Your oil temps sound about right. Takes about 10 mins for my car to creep over 120*F on a cool day. Street driving it is between 120-170*F, track driving it gets up in the 190-210*F range. I have a mostly stock SR btw.

The water in the upper radiator hose isn't being appreciably heated by the engine when it is sitting stationary. Once hot water flows through(thermostat first opening), it should stay about the temp your thermostat opens(~175*F for a stock B13 SE-R thermostat) or hotter.

StealthmodeS14
10-27-2004, 06:54 AM
Same here.....never had issues with either my oil pressure or water temp gauge. I've checked in accordance with an mdm as well....a tad off, but nothing to worry about.

That being said...Defi gauges are soon to come...

-Bill

fsae_alum
10-27-2004, 04:00 PM
The water in the upper radiator hose isn't being appreciably heated by the engine when it is sitting stationary. Once hot water flows through(thermostat first opening), it should stay about the temp your thermostat opens(~175*F for a stock B13 SE-R thermostat) or hotter.



This statement is correct assuming:
1.) You're not using the stock SR radiator AND
2.) You're not running with the AC on AND
3.) It's not 80 F or higher ambient temperature

The validity of that statement is also dependant upon the following (and probably much more):
a.) Which fan you're running
b.) Which front end you're running (i.e. Silvia vs 180SX)
c.) What you're running for ducting.

I'm not trying to submarine you DEF...just pointing out the fact that the statement is a VERY broad statement and not exactly correct....that's all.

_Def_
10-27-2004, 04:29 PM
The water in the upper radiator hose isn't being appreciably heated by the engine when it is sitting stationary. Once hot water flows through(thermostat first opening), it should stay about the temp your thermostat opens(~175*F for a stock B13 SE-R thermostat) or hotter.



This statement is correct assuming:
1.) You're not using the stock SR radiator AND
2.) You're not running with the AC on AND
3.) It's not 80 F or higher ambient temperature

The validity of that statement is also dependant upon the following (and probably much more):
a.) Which fan you're running
b.) Which front end you're running (i.e. Silvia vs 180SX)
c.) What you're running for ducting.

I'm not trying to submarine you DEF...just pointing out the fact that the statement is a VERY broad statement and not exactly correct....that's all.




It has absolutely nothing to do with what radiator and/or accessories you might be running at the time. On a cold startup, the coolant circulates in a closed loop in the block. For the water in the upper radiator neck to heat up appreciably before the thermostat opens, it would have to come from convection of the coolant transfering heat all the way from the block to the upper radiator hose(happens somewhat), or from ambient air heating up the coolant(very very small effect, given that the rubber hose probably has a very low conduction coefficient - i.e. it's an insulator).

Ambient temperature and what front end you are running is completely irrelavent as well.

Note that me saying "the water isn't being heated while it's sitting stationary" - that means there is the coolant is not flowing when the thermostat is closed, not that the car is not moving forward(which doesn't matter one bit).

Before the thermostat opens, there is no coolant flow in the upper hose, hence the "cold" coolant just sits there until the thermostat opens and it flows through the hose onto the radiator and displaces the cold coolant.

My temperatures will typically go from ambient to maybe ~90*F(for an average ambient temp of 70*F) due to a small amount of convection in the coolant, then the thermostat will open and the temperature will shoot up to ~175*F. This is what the person I was responding to was talking about.


If you're talking about temperatures rising above 175*F during hard driving - of course they do... That's why I added "or hotter" at the end of this statement -



it should stay about the temp your thermostat opens(~175*F for a stock B13 SE-R thermostat) or hotter.



The greater the temperature differential between coolant and ambient air the greater the heat rejection given a given airstream velocity.

SoCalS14
10-27-2004, 06:50 PM
I am about to install both water temp and oil pressure...I have all greddy right now. I was trying to figure out which spot would yeild the most accurate readings for the water temp...now which spot would be the best?

Upper hose?
Lower hose?
Tapping the block? IF so, where?

fsae_alum
10-27-2004, 08:57 PM
The water in the upper radiator hose isn't being appreciably heated by the engine when it is sitting stationary.


DEF...I do agree with you on this part of your statement.




Once hot water flows through(thermostat first opening), it should stay about the temp your thermostat opens(~175*F for a stock B13 SE-R thermostat) or hotter.



THIS however is what I was referring to. I (along with 3 other individuals present) witnessed it first hand when a redtop went from 185F to 225F (as measured in the upper radiator hose) within 10 minutes. This was with the car idling, with the ac on, and at an ambient of ~85 F. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I fully understand how a thermostat works as do most people... I just didn't want you to make the broad statement that the car should stay at the temp the thermostat opens at, as it IS dependent upon all the things I previously mentioned and you cannot deny that. Yeah...we all know that while the thermostat is closed those things don't mean squat...but once it opens...they mean EVERYTHING!

I just don't want somebody to read your statement and start saying "OMG....I'm driving (or idling) my car and the temp is getting to 180...something is wrong!!" As I just illustrated too, the temp does not have to get to 175+ just from heavy driving...it can happen as a result of just idling.

I'm not saying you're wrong...I'm just offering some clarification and watchin your back. No need to get pissy.

_Def_
10-27-2004, 11:40 PM
Not pissy at all. You're just missing the "or hotter" at the very end of the quoted statement.

My car runs about 180-185*F on a hot day driving around town, will sometimes creep up to 190*F idling with Flex-a-Lite dual 12" fans on. I have a Koyo radiator. So I can fully see how the temperature get could much higher with a stock radiator. That's why I ended with - "175*F ... or hotter." http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I wasn't sure what you were not agreeing with, and thought it might be the temperature profile of the upper radiator hose after a cold startup.

robbbby
10-28-2004, 01:08 PM
While on the topic of temperatures, what should normal driving/operating temperatures be? Alot of people complain about SR's overheating, I seem to have the exact opposite problem, mine won't reach the proper temperature (I'd imagine ideal is about 180 with the system in open loop?). If I let it idle all day long it sits at 169-171F (Reading from the actual coolant sensor). I can even go out and do normal driving (without boostind) and the thermostata stays closed, temp will jump between 173-171, this normal?
I don't think the temp sensor is bad because as soon as it does hit 175 the thermo opens, and also when I start the car up it gets up to its 169-170F operating temperature fairly quickly.

_Def_
10-28-2004, 05:32 PM
While on the topic of temperatures, what should normal driving/operating temperatures be? Alot of people complain about SR's overheating, I seem to have the exact opposite problem, mine won't reach the proper temperature (I'd imagine ideal is about 180 with the system in open loop?). If I let it idle all day long it sits at 169-171F (Reading from the actual coolant sensor). I can even go out and do normal driving (without boostind) and the thermostata stays closed, temp will jump between 173-171, this normal?
I don't think the temp sensor is bad because as soon as it does hit 175 the thermo opens, and also when I start the car up it gets up to its 169-170F operating temperature fairly quickly.



That's about my experience. These engines off boost really don't make much heat at all. They're just low compression 2.0L engines without positive pressure afterall. My oil temps are usually "very cold" when driving it on the street, even boost quite a bit.

cwdmark
10-28-2004, 06:24 PM
Not pissy at all. You're just missing the "or hotter" at the very end of the quoted statement.

My car runs about 180-185*F on a hot day driving around town, will sometimes creep up to 190*F idling with Flex-a-Lite dual 12" fans on. I have a Koyo radiator. So I can fully see how the temperature get could much higher with a stock radiator. That's why I ended with - "175*F ... or hotter." http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I wasn't sure what you were not agreeing with, and thought it might be the temperature profile of the upper radiator hose after a cold startup.


i have the exact same readings. around town its 181-185F and sometimes gets up to 190F or so when its hot out or when im booting it. this is read by a techtom cmx-100 that reads off the stock temp sensor (GREAT gauge by the way...). i completely trust my greddy gauges, all except the air/fuel one, because its a complete joke.

cwdmark
10-28-2004, 06:30 PM
i am using a autometer electronic gauge


there's your problem http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

i think autometer gauges suck. poor lighting, poor visibility, and inaccuracy. the only thing going for them is that they are cheap.

im a greddy gauge fan.



Explain to all of us why Greddy is better then Autometer. I don't know if your vision is 20/20 but I have no problem whatsoever seeing my autometer gauges, at night the lighting seems fine. Inaccuracy????? prove it.


the autometer mechanical gauges suck. the water temp gauge line had to run under the dash or along the side of the car to the apiller and on hot days, the ambient temperature and light from the sun showed down on the dash and heated up the gauge. my car was 150F when it wasn't even on! thats b.s. on the other hand, greddy gauges are all electrical and no stupid vaccum tubes to worry about. i pinched them all the time just trying to change the location of the autometer gauge and had constant leaks that needed repair and attention. my one oil pressure gauge line busted going down the track.

i shouldn't have to worry about crap like that. with the greddy ones, once it leaves the engine bay all you deal with is wires. they are great and have a much better display than the autometer ones. the autometers i had never had enough light at night and the orange bulb was never bright enough.

i can go on and on but.. i think you get the idea.

robbbby
10-28-2004, 08:40 PM
my one oil pressure gauge line busted going down the track.

i shouldn't have to worry about crap like that.




Last time I checked autometer sold both mechanical and electrical temp gauges.

BlackBomber
10-28-2004, 09:42 PM
i am using a autometer electronic gauge


there's your problem http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

i think autometer gauges suck. poor lighting, poor visibility, and inaccuracy. the only thing going for them is that they are cheap.

im a greddy gauge fan.



Explain to all of us why Greddy is better then Autometer. I don't know if your vision is 20/20 but I have no problem whatsoever seeing my autometer gauges, at night the lighting seems fine. Inaccuracy????? prove it.


the autometer mechanical gauges suck. the water temp gauge line had to run under the dash or along the side of the car to the apiller and on hot days, the ambient temperature and light from the sun showed down on the dash and heated up the gauge. my car was 150F when it wasn't even on! thats b.s. on the other hand, greddy gauges are all electrical and no stupid vaccum tubes to worry about. i pinched them all the time just trying to change the location of the autometer gauge and had constant leaks that needed repair and attention. my one oil pressure gauge line busted going down the track.

i shouldn't have to worry about crap like that. with the greddy ones, once it leaves the engine bay all you deal with is wires. they are great and have a much better display than the autometer ones. the autometers i had never had enough light at night and the orange bulb was never bright enough.

i can go on and on but.. i think you get the idea.



Autometer makes fully electronic gauges as well.

cwdmark
10-28-2004, 10:47 PM
o ok.. i only have experience with the mechanical gauges (ex. boost, oil pressure, water temp).