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View Full Version : Removing ABS: Joining the lines *pic*



Gonad
03-13-2005, 02:38 PM
I've removed my ABS actuator and now I need to join up the lines.

The rear is no problem because it's a One-to-One connection.

The front brakes however need to have a T-connector (one
line coming off master and splitting into two at the ABS).

My concern is that since the lines are of different
lengths, I wonder if there will be some kind of pressure
difference because of the length and because they are
getting fed from one line coming off the master cylinder.

I doubt it would be an issue because the rear is already
doing that through a T-distribution block.

Here's the lines layout in the FSM:
http://240sx.cubicdesign.com/images/misc/brakelines.jpg

2Fass240us
03-13-2005, 09:02 PM
I would recommend getting non-ABS equipment to replace it with. I paid $10 for a non-ABS BMC and hardlines.

If you don't mind my asking, why did you ditch the actuator? Weight? Did it not function?

Gonad
03-13-2005, 11:35 PM
I took out my A/C and I wanted to remove the hose that was
attached at the firewall just under/behind the ABS
actuator.

My brakes/abs unit has been working fine although I don't
particulary like ABS in general. At the track I normally
just disable it.

And I'm not afraid to ditch it; I mean, 25lbs of weight I
jsut freed up.

Plus I think it might be hard to get a set of non-ABS
lines. It's hard to get in touch with people wanting to
sell/part out non-ABS vehicles.

mattmartindrift
03-13-2005, 11:38 PM
I would recommend getting non-ABS equipment to replace it with. I paid $10 for a non-ABS BMC and hardlines.

If you don't mind my asking, why did you ditch the actuator? Weight? Did it not function?



yeah, I took lines from a wrecked car, and eliminated all the crap, and the ABS booster is about 1.5" longer too!

PhatBob
03-14-2005, 05:42 AM
This is another job on my list, I was just going to replace the ABS with a 'T' connector to split the front line into two. Is there any reason why this wouldnt work?

2Fass240us
03-14-2005, 07:12 AM
I don't think this is a good idea. Why? I don't know, really. But I would seriously consider getting the aforementioned non-ABS equipment.

FYI, the ABS unit is 15.8 pounds, its bracket is 3.2 pounds, and the wiring/computer/sensors/etc. are probably 1 pound total. Twenty pounds is nothing to scoff at, but it's certainly not one of the easiest 20 pounds you could save. In fact, I'd recommend doing this as one of your last weight savings efforts.

PhatBob
03-14-2005, 08:33 AM
I don't think this is a good idea. Why? I don't know, really. But I would seriously consider getting the aforementioned non-ABS equipment.



I cannot get a Non ABS S14 system. I'm not primarily doing this for a weight saving, rather than to get rid of the ABS as its not ideal for circuit work.

2Fass240us
03-14-2005, 09:01 AM
I cannot get a Non ABS S14 system. I'm not primarily doing this for a weight saving, rather than to get rid of the ABS as its not ideal for circuit work.


Aw chit...sorry. I have only screwed with S13's thus far. Any other Nissan parts you could use, like a Z32 BMC? Keep in mind that custom-bending lines is always an option.

PhatBob
03-14-2005, 10:40 AM
Aw chit...sorry. I have only screwed with S13's thus far. Any other Nissan parts you could use, like a Z32 BMC? Keep in mind that custom-bending lines is always an option.


I was going to bend up and flare all the lines required - I have copper brake tube readily available.

Rob

cosmoworks
03-14-2005, 02:39 PM
This is another job on my list, I was just going to replace the ABS with a 'T' connector to split the front line into two. Is there any reason why this wouldnt work?



No reason it shouldn't work. The pressure in the line is the same whether it's two lines running into the M/C or line split into two further down the line.

-Cosmo

Gonad
03-14-2005, 06:41 PM
Well, there are shops here that sell fittings that let
you join up two male ends (the fitting is basically a
female->female that you use to connect two males into).

I couldn't find a T-connector so I am looking for a shop
around here that sells M10 x 1mm tap bits so that my dad
can make me a distribution block (his work doesn't have an
M10x1 tap bit).

I might get him to make a few of these and sell for a few
bucks (enough to cover the cost of the bit that I would
have to purchase).

okashira
03-14-2005, 10:03 PM
Making a T fitting wont be that easy... it has to have the proper flare fitting inside. just get one out of a junkyard. I'm using one off some 70's Toyota corolla, for my 300zx M/C now.

gsracer
03-15-2005, 07:27 AM
I don't think this is a good idea. Why? I don't know, really. But I would seriously consider getting the aforementioned non-ABS equipment.



I cannot get a Non ABS S14 system. I'm not primarily doing this for a weight saving, rather than to get rid of the ABS as its not ideal for circuit work.




yes you can courtesy parts sells the brake lines brand new fronts are about 22 dollars , rear one is about 15 dollars. take you 5 days to get .

PhatBob
03-15-2005, 08:46 AM
I cannot get a Non ABS S14 system. I'm not primarily doing this for a weight saving, rather than to get rid of the ABS as its not ideal for circuit work.



yes you can courtesy parts sells the brake lines brand new fronts are about 22 dollars , rear one is about 15 dollars. take you 5 days to get .



Then a load of postage +4% import duty +17.5% Sales Tax.

Or I can get few yards of copper brake pipe and use my flaring tool to make the tubes I need. It seems as if the pressure is regulated at the master cylinder, so a simple 2 way splitter at the front will take the feed and direct it to the front brakes.

Gonad
03-15-2005, 11:51 AM
Making a T fitting wont be that easy... it has to have the proper flare fitting inside. just get one out of a junkyard. I'm using one off some 70's Toyota corolla, for my 300zx M/C now.



If it's a brake related part, it will have the proper specs.

If my dad makes it, he'll know how much to drill and such.

cosmoworks
04-03-2005, 01:42 PM
Thought I'd update this thread with a pic.....don't know who's pic this is (maybe the owner can chime in), but here's an example of someone who's already done this:

http://www.cmdesigngroup.com/240/images/post/9631brakemod3.jpg

-Cosmo

drivemarcusdrive
04-03-2005, 02:51 PM
yes, i need to get a t-fitting too, does anyone know where i can buy one????

SequenceGarage
04-03-2005, 08:50 PM
Gonad as I mentioned on Son240sx, you can just get a rear distrobution block from a parts car (wont cost you more than 10$), or any junkyard car. Obviously they work with the nissan brake fittings and quite frankly they are nice little black boxes. Mounted to the firewall they would look very decent.

My biggest concern now is creating line with Japanese 10x1.00 bubble flare fitting on one end and Pipe thread ?/?" (cant rememeber the size exactly) NPT fitting on the other for a wilwood brake bias valve.

Gonad
04-03-2005, 09:04 PM
Actually I found the part.

Go to Nissan and ask for a Union fitting with part #46364-50F00

It's about 2" x 1" wide t-block that you can use to join up your lines.

Infact I am going to buy two of them. To Tee up the ones for the front brakes and for the rear, I'll use the same T except block off one of the hole.

I get no time to go to that place you mentioned SG so i am going to buy the two union fittings at $13cad/each.

I hope to pick it up on Tuesday and will post some pics when done.

SequenceGarage
04-04-2005, 12:31 PM
Sounds good man just make sure that cap is tight. Imagine it leaked. Bam no brakes.

Gonad
04-04-2005, 01:49 PM
Sounds good man just make sure that cap is tight. Imagine it leaked. Bam no brakes.



Dude, I had Scott call up that WurthCanada place about those female-femal unions and they are $4.06 each, however they want you to buy in bulk, with min 10 items minimum.

No way I'm doing that so the cheapest alternative is the two t-blocks unless I can find a similar union elsewhere.

Gonad
04-04-2005, 07:08 PM
#46364-50F00 from Nissan - $14cad
I only got one, and the other is on back order (as much as 2-weeks if it comes from Japan).

http://240sx.cubicdesign.com/images/misc/union1.jpg
http://240sx.cubicdesign.com/images/misc/union2.jpg

Basically to use this for the rear lines, one of the holes will get capped shut.

SequenceGarage
04-04-2005, 08:50 PM
Oh really? Thats rediculous!!

The peice looks hot, I never knew it was gold! I'll pick up two now as well, then all I need to fabricate is the front line from the master to the bias control, and from the bias control to the T.

cosmoworks
04-05-2005, 11:18 AM
Basically to use this for the rear lines, one of the holes will get capped shut.



If you cap one of the holes how is it a Tee then?

-Cosmo

Gonad
04-05-2005, 03:31 PM
I am buying two Tees.

One tee will be used for the front brakes (see pic in first post) since it's 1:2 line.

The other tee will be used for rear brakes and since it's a 1:1 line, one of the holes will be capped off.

Like I said, a female:female (for 1:1) union is $4ea x 10 = $40 which I'm not willing to buy.

cosmoworks
04-05-2005, 04:56 PM
The other tee will be used for rear brakes and since it's a 1:1 line, one of the holes will be capped off.



Ahh got it, you're using one of them as a coupler not a tee.

-Cosmo

SequenceGarage
04-06-2005, 01:24 PM
Just called Nissan and ordered 2, and I just won an auction for a wilwood brake bias valve.

Helpful tip if you're bending your own lines that I saw when i was watching Trucks:

take a coathanger and bend the line out using the coat hanger first, then when you have a route as you like it make it out of brake line. Aren't those guys the best? hah

Gonad
04-06-2005, 01:56 PM
Just called Nissan and ordered 2, and I just won an auction for a wilwood brake bias valve.

Helpful tip if you're bending your own lines that I saw when i was watching Trucks:

take a coathanger and bend the line out using the coat hanger first, then when you have a route as you like it make it out of brake line. Aren't those guys the best? hah



Which Nissan did you call?

What did they say about how long it will take?

I called 401 Dixie and they said it won't get on a bot from Japan till the 9th. And then it's another 2 weeks wait before it arrives.

I swear if you get yours somehow before, someone's gonna hear it...

SequenceGarage
04-07-2005, 03:46 PM
"at least a week" sherway nissan.

Gonad
04-10-2005, 08:27 PM
I posted a how-to for doing this in the BASIC section on FA.

I resorted to only using one-tee since I totally missed
seeing the female:female union that was just below the
actuator.

I was going to end up using two tees and then blocking one
hole on one of the tees to make it work like a
female:female union.

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB27&Number=67951659&page =0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1