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nmap
05-06-2005, 03:17 PM
Hey, i just want to point out that i'm breaking my engine building cherry on this project; so please take it easy on me here...

I'm setting up the bottom end for the first time, with Wiesco 86.5mm pistons w/ the 12cc dish.

first newbie question, ring orientation. in dealing with the top ring it looks the same on both sides, no apperant markings other then an N. the second ring appears to be stepped. do i install the first ring with the N up or down? do i install the second ring with the step up, or step down? the wiesco instructions are pretty vague in it's description.

second question, i picked up the 12cc dished wiesco pistons because i was under the assumption that they would yeild 9:1 compression with a stock headgasket... after searching it turns out they are closer to 8.8:1 according to enthalpy. does cometic make a 1mm headgasket? what can i do to bring the compression more inline with what my goals are?

final stupid question, last night we took the stock rod bolts out of the stock rods that will be reusing. I have new OEM bolts coming on the way. they were pretty difficult to remove and required a little influence from a torch to let loose, are we going to have to use a press to get the new bolts in? is this just not as difficult as i seem to be making it here?

thanks for any advice you guys can give me, i'm open for all input... try not to flame me too bad. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Shift_Mike
05-06-2005, 03:32 PM
as far as the piston rings go I think that the top ring doesnt matter, it is equal on both sides, That notched ring the notch should face up. And as for your CR goes i cant help ya there. But you should have been able to tap out the stock rod bolts with a small hammer carfully (my dad use to build race motors he told me this) and when you put them back in just use the nuts that they supply and stick a couple of washers on the bolt and pull the bolt up with tighting down the nut, then take the nut off, take the washers off and put the piston in.

Oh and since this is your first time doing this a little hint that was taught to me. When you put the pistons and rods back in you should put small rubber tubing over the ends of your rod bolts. Its just some insurace that you dont bang up your nice smooth crank or damage the cylinder walls while you are tapping the piston down back into the block out of the compresser.

nmap
05-12-2005, 01:28 AM
only bump.

anyone? Bueller?

Enthalpy
05-12-2005, 07:07 AM
Hey, i just want to point out that i'm breaking my engine building cherry on this project; so please take it easy on me here...

I'm setting up the bottom end for the first time, with Wiesco 86.5mm pistons w/ the 12cc dish.

first newbie question, ring orientation. in dealing with the top ring it looks the same on both sides, no apperant markings other then an N. the second ring appears to be stepped. do i install the first ring with the N up or down? do i install the second ring with the step up, or step down? the wiesco instructions are pretty vague in it's description.

second question, i picked up the 12cc dished wiesco pistons because i was under the assumption that they would yeild 9:1 compression with a stock headgasket... after searching it turns out they are closer to 8.8:1 according to enthalpy. does cometic make a 1mm headgasket? what can i do to bring the compression more inline with what my goals are?

final stupid question, last night we took the stock rod bolts out of the stock rods that will be reusing. I have new OEM bolts coming on the way. they were pretty difficult to remove and required a little influence from a torch to let loose, are we going to have to use a press to get the new bolts in? is this just not as difficult as i seem to be making it here?

thanks for any advice you guys can give me, i'm open for all input... try not to flame me too bad. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif




the N ont he top ring is for NPR...the manufacturer of the ring. this points up.

the 2nd ring is considered a "scraper style" ring. install with the side with notch cut all the way around facing DOWN. this creates an edge to scrape the oil off the walls with.

rod bots are supposed to be removed and re-installed by a machine ship. that is then supposed to re-zise your rods to make sure they are the right diameter and thatt they are perfectly round after you push the bolts in. do not do this yourself. have your machine shop do it for you. you do not have a precision hone required to do this properly.

Good luck,
Scott

Shift_Mike
05-12-2005, 05:33 PM
sheeeeeet that sucks lol now i have to take my pistons back out, good thing i dont have the head and stuff on yet. I was told the notch goes up for compression, but i believe you more than anyone for an SR motor scott.

But are my rod bolts going to be ok the way i put them in? They pulled in good and tight and no problems really.

Shift_Mike
05-12-2005, 08:39 PM
Bump somone lol

Should I take my rods with arp bolts that I put in to the machine shop or not? Im gonna be flipping my rings around tommorow so if i need to have these arp bolts checked i would like to do it tommorow also.

My dad tells me people just take them to the machine shop for insurance and that it cant really be messed up, he just told me that pistons should always be installed on the rods by the machine shop to make sure everything is balanced. He said if my rod bolts are down all the way and are tight he doesnt see why anything would be wrong.

Somone?