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b18c_ferio
05-23-2005, 03:53 PM
not that anyone cares, this is what I got from Everythingnissan.com for 207.00
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/30/30847/folders/191565/1548459DSC00471.JPG
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/30/30847/folders/191565/1548460DSC00472.JPG
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/30/30847/folders/191565/1548462DSC00474.JPG

killjoy
05-23-2005, 04:29 PM
Umm, hmmm, yeah. You paid 200 bucks for a brake master cylinder?

You can buy stuff from me anytime;)

b18c_ferio
05-23-2005, 04:55 PM
how much was a 300ZX nabco 1" supposed to cost?

b18c_ferio
05-23-2005, 04:57 PM
hell the dealer wanted 279

1mns13
05-23-2005, 05:01 PM
I bought and installed that same part number two weeks ago. I paid just a little less. 240 canadian including gst. It is way better than my leaking 7/8" bmc. abs works well now. The shiny reservoir is nice to see as well.

b18c_ferio
05-23-2005, 05:04 PM
the resivoir(sp?) came with it, I dont know if thats normal

robbbby
05-23-2005, 06:36 PM
Damn. I searched for months and months for a nabco BMC. Bought remanufactured ones from so many different sources and they were always tokico.
Finally got fed up and just kept a 1-1/16 tokico and reflared my line and used a bubble flare adapter.

ballinnmiami240sx
05-23-2005, 06:40 PM
wow.......junkyard=$50 dollars http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/cool.gif

shoes59
05-23-2005, 06:45 PM
I bought a brand new 1 1/16" Nabco unit from Foreign Auto Parts for $160. Beck Arnley part #072-8766.

bruinbear714
05-23-2005, 07:24 PM
Just so you guys know, there's one on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7976574003&sspa gename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT) that goes for $140 brand new.

RDM_II
05-23-2005, 07:43 PM
I bought the 1 1/16" unit brand new for $134 for a dealer. Decided I didn't need it yet and sold it for $179.

Hugh
05-23-2005, 07:49 PM
I bought the 1 1/16" unit brand new for $134 for a dealer. Decided I didn't need it yet and sold it for $179.



Now thats a businessman!! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I don't think $200 is so bad for a guaranteed good master cylinder from a dealer. Just be happy when it works great. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

b18c_ferio
05-23-2005, 07:52 PM
maybe someone else will learn from my mistake.. I dont remember
reading about all these low prices beforehand. If you get something for a low price, POST IT UP!! But i did think I read that the rebuilt MC's were Crap

bosozoku
05-23-2005, 07:57 PM
1 1/16th Rebuilt Autozone SPL MC going on 2 or so years. I forget what I payed for but it sure as hell wasn't 200 dollars.

Crap? Hardly, only lame part was getting that middle fitting in, which by the looks of it you too will have to endure as well.

starryskyn
05-23-2005, 08:00 PM
I bought This One From Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7976574003&sspa gename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT) from this guy a while ago and I still have it on my car. They were not remanufactured and were the original NABCO unit made in Japan. I will take a picture for you when I get off work. I bougth it for $154 last time.

_Def_
05-23-2005, 08:08 PM
Jeez, seeing these prices, maybe I shouldn't say what I paid for my new Nabco 1" MC. I think it was around $56 shipped to me, and was brand new. I see that the eBay seller that I got it from about 8 months ago has jacked his prices up quite a bit though.

It's a good MC with a full Z32 brake setup. Very firm pedal, and the correct rear brake bias helps to keep you from crapping your pants.

starryskyn
05-23-2005, 08:13 PM
Here it is in my car. damn $56, thats cheap.. Brand New???

http://www.geocities.com/grip240sx/1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/grip240sx/2.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/grip240sx/3.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/grip240sx/4.jpg

BlackBomber
05-23-2005, 08:32 PM
paid $60 for mine 17/16" from a friend who used to be big into z32s.

b18c_ferio
05-23-2005, 08:43 PM
1 1/16th Rebuilt Autozone SPL MC going on 2 or so years. I forget what I payed for but it sure as hell wasn't 200 dollars.

Crap? Hardly, only lame part was getting that middle fitting in, which by the looks of it you too will have to endure as well.

Ive already removed the 6 sided 8mm plug and the fitting is there...

b18c_ferio
05-23-2005, 08:49 PM
I guess I didn't think 200 was bad cause I'm used to buying parts for hondas...at least I got both my Q45 calipers for 23.00 (plus 30.00 rebuild kit)

Broaner
05-23-2005, 10:02 PM
Does the dealer sell rebuild seal kits for stock BMC's? How much?

Hugh
05-23-2005, 10:50 PM
I guess I didn't think 200 was bad cause I'm used to buying parts for hondas...at least I got both my Q45 calipers for 23.00 (plus 30.00 rebuild kit)



That does sorta balance it out a little. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif

shoes59
05-24-2005, 07:14 AM
I bought the 1 1/16" unit brand new for $134 for a dealer. Decided I didn't need it yet and sold it for $179.


LOL!!! The first one I bought used for $50 from Z31 Motorsports or something. I wasn't confident with it so I sold it for well over $100 and bought a new one. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif

mattmartindrift
05-24-2005, 07:33 AM
I got a reman through napa for $50 + core....

b18c_ferio
05-24-2005, 11:47 AM
I got a reman through napa for $50 + core....

i bought a remanned starter for my B18c from napa and iT Quit working after a month..they would not give me my money back or exchange it. They tested it and said it was good. I had to keep "flicking" the ignition switch to get the car to start. even bought a new battery cable once i discovered that i could turn the engine over with direct +12 to the starter..Lo and behold went to Acura and bought a brand new starter and havent had problems since. I only trust NAPA for spark plugs and even then they never seem to understand that I want BKR6e-11(Vpower) and not BRK6ES-11(normal NGK)..

b18c_ferio
05-24-2005, 11:48 AM
I'd rather have my car not start than not stop...

killjoy
05-24-2005, 11:58 AM
I think the problem was not with Napa but with the motor company. **cough, honda sucks, cough**

_Def_
05-24-2005, 01:07 PM
Here it is in my car. damn $56, thats cheap.. Brand New???




Yep, brand spanking new. If it was reman'd then they did a VERY good job cleaning it up(I wiped it down with solvent to see if it had any dirt/dust anywhere, nothing). It didn't say Nissan on the side, just said Nabco. Bolted right up and has been working great ever since.

1mns13
05-24-2005, 05:16 PM
Here it is in my car. damn $56, thats cheap.. Brand New???

http://www.geocities.com/grip240sx/1.jpg



Time for a brake fluid flush!

b18c_ferio
05-25-2005, 06:32 AM
I think the problem was not with Napa but with the motor company. **cough, honda sucks, cough**

Ive overrevved my engine 4-5 times, once the Rev-speed meter rolled over(showed 0500=10499) and no funny behavior afterwards...ive even overheated to the point that my Autometer was PEGGED past 250(1 thermostat and 1 year later still going strong)..I just dont think the KA could take that....

shoes59
05-25-2005, 07:09 AM
Time for a brake fluid flush!


Maybe he's using the Super Blue fluid. I do.

RDM_II
05-25-2005, 09:55 AM
I think the problem was not with Napa but with the motor company. **cough, honda sucks, cough**

Ive overrevved my engine 4-5 times, once the Rev-speed meter rolled over(showed 0500=10399) and no funny behavior afterwards...ive even overheated to the point that my Autometer was PEGGED past 250(1 thermostat and 1 year later still going strong)..I just dont think the KA could take that....



It can, and would like it. My oil temperature probe popped out once and I lost oil pressure, blowing nearly 4qts out the hole. I drove it for another 3 miles to get home, filled it back up and washed the engine off. When I pulled the motor out from that car I stripped it down, bearings all looked perfect. I've also had a stuck thermostat in the mountains where there was no place to pull off, 15 minutes of 253 degree water temp, nothing to show signs of damage except a deformed hose.

ninja_nips
05-25-2005, 11:32 AM
**cough, honda sucks, cough**


OMG! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/rolleyes1.gif

Hiram_aka_Chingon
05-25-2005, 12:01 PM
Got mine for around 22 on ebay. It was seized but a little sand paper fixed the problem. I think mine was the tokico though. Year and a half and no problems...

b18c_ferio
05-25-2005, 02:04 PM
I think the problem was not with Napa but with the motor company. **cough, honda sucks, cough**

Ive overrevved my engine 4-5 times, once the Rev-speed meter rolled over(showed 0500=10399) and no funny behavior afterwards...ive even overheated to the point that my Autometer was PEGGED past 250(1 thermostat and 1 year later still going strong)..I just dont think the KA could take that....



It can, and would like it. My oil temperature probe popped out once and I lost oil pressure, blowing nearly 4qts out the hole. I drove it for another 3 miles to get home, filled it back up and washed the engine off. When I pulled the motor out from that car I stripped it down, bearings all looked perfect. I've also had a stuck thermostat in the mountains where there was no place to pull off, 15 minutes of 253 degree water temp, nothing to show signs of damage except a deformed hose.

your KA must be healthy..here the KAs seem to suffer from a condition called BHG(blown head gasket). My 240 hasnt had any problems since I bought it tho(bought with maybe 176000 now at 186000).

1mns13
05-25-2005, 10:03 PM
Time for a brake fluid flush!


Maybe he's using the Super Blue fluid. I do.


Thanks, hadn't thought of that. No tracks for 3 hours from me.

ItzGenX
05-26-2005, 02:22 PM
I ended up with a tokico one when I bought a reman from advanced autoparts. The problem now is, will my stock s14 nabco flare fit into the tokico and seal properly? I don't want to try it without knowing if it will work or not (need to know what to expect).

starryskyn
05-26-2005, 04:27 PM
Yes, I am using super blue racing, my favorite brake fluid. Its about time for a flush though. I've been broke so... haha.

Brakes are important especially hydralics, I woulndt not want to do anything like modifying lines or master cylinders... scares me. You never know, if you dont do it right, and one day...

Spend a little more, the piece of mind is worth it.

b18c_ferio
05-26-2005, 08:54 PM
installed yesterday, along with HPS rear pads...Rock hard pedal...weaklings need not apply...may get booster upgrade soon

_Def_
05-26-2005, 11:17 PM
Yea, the 1" MC will give you a very stiff pedal. I rather like it though. It isn't really hard at all to lock the wheels up, as I've done it out of habit a few times on the track when someone threw out the anchor like 200 yards early in front of me.

I can't see people going with the 17/16" MC, as that'll be even harder to stop the car.


I notice with my Carboteh Panther+ pads up front the pedal is a bit softer than with Axxis Ultimates all around. I'm guessing the P+ pad material is not as stiff so it is flexing some.

killjoy
05-27-2005, 08:25 AM
I think that most people that go with 1-1/16 bmc are using z32 brakes front and rear. I only had fronts on the stolen car and had a 15/16 mc and love it. No break problems at all. This car I have damn near a complete z32 driveline so I will use the 1-1/16 mc. z32 rear spindles and rear lsd, z32 brakes all around.

_Def_
05-27-2005, 11:56 AM
I have Z32 brakes all around and my pedal is VERY hard. It takes about 1/2-3/4" of pedal travel to engage the brakes, then they don't move one bit after that. You just modulate the pressure.

I'm too lazy to look for it, but I made an .xls sheet for different MC sizes, and I think the 17/16" was about 20-30% stiffer than the 1" MC.


I'm sure it works out just fine, but I can't see needing even more pedal pressure on the car.


As it is, the brakes feel similar to my E36 M3, but with a more rigid pedal since the Z32 calipers are fixed and not floating. The E36 M3 has a pretty firm pedal for a stock car as well.

cosmoworks
05-27-2005, 12:48 PM
but I can't see needing even more pedal pressure on the car.



That's YOUR preference. People running 17/16" just prefer to run a stiffer pedal than you. A 17/16" MC on Z32 calipers all-around feels perfect for me... not hard to stop the car by any means.

-Cosmo

bosozoku
05-27-2005, 06:40 PM
but I can't see needing even more pedal pressure on the car.



That's YOUR preference. People running 17/16" just prefer to run a stiffer pedal than you. A 17/16" MC on Z32 calipers all-around feels perfect for me... not hard to stop the car by any means.

-Cosmo



To add to that, I too have said sized MC. Prior to to my current set up (z32 all around) I had only 26mm Z32 up front, with a 17/16 MC, it felt dead on. You could feel the calipers engage within the pedal it was awesome, if you became in tune with the set up.

Really it is based soley (just as anything really) upon interpritation. I used to cringe driving my moms civic, before it was totaled, becuase of the late/far pedal travel.

shoes59
05-27-2005, 08:23 PM
That's YOUR preference. People running 17/16" just prefer to run a stiffer pedal than you. A 17/16" MC on Z32 calipers all-around feels perfect for me... not hard to stop the car by any means.


Better bias and much easier to heel toe with a firm pedal.

shoes59
05-27-2005, 08:24 PM
That's YOUR preference. People running 17/16" just prefer to run a stiffer pedal than you. A 17/16" MC on Z32 calipers all-around feels perfect for me... not hard to stop the car by any means.


Better bias and much easier for me to heel toe with a firm pedal.

_Def_
05-27-2005, 10:28 PM
but I can't see needing even more pedal pressure on the car.



That's YOUR preference. People running 17/16" just prefer to run a stiffer pedal than you. A 17/16" MC on Z32 calipers all-around feels perfect for me... not hard to stop the car by any means.

-Cosmo



I understand, I was just posting my impressions if someone happened to be wondering what size they should get with a full Z32 setup.

I actually have to get rig up some pedal covers that are higher on the gas pedal due to my brake pedal having so little travel now on the track. It is really hard for me to blip the throttle now, where before it was the perfect height with the stock brakes.

My brake pedal now never even gets down to the gas pedal's level, even under hard threshold braking. Take out a little bit more of that travel, and I don't think I could heel and toe at all with my size 12's and the trans tunnel there.


My comment about it being hard to stop the car was more about modulating the brakes. With having to supply more and more effort(past a certain point, which is different for everybody), you're going to get less precise at modulating the brakes since it requires a good firm "push" just to get around the threshold. At least that's been my experience with brakes. Light pedalled cars suffer the same thing, where it is hard to modulate because you are barely pressing on the pedal.

cosmoworks
05-29-2005, 10:13 PM
With having to supply more and more effort(past a certain point, which is different for everybody), you're going to get less precise at modulating the brakes since it requires a good firm "push" just to get around the threshold.



To an extent... but the difference between a 17/16" and a 1" just isn't that great (about 13% difference in piston area). Plus I find that it's easier for me to modulate using force rather than distance.

-Cosmo

_Def_
05-30-2005, 12:47 AM
I agree, using force to modulate is better than distance. Maybe I'm just too used to threshold braking on cars with floating calipers, as my pedal is seriously down about 3/4" of an inch and that's it, then I modulate using pressure on the pedal. It's hard to heel and toe unless I'm really on the brakes, so I probably wouldn't like an even stiffer pedal.

Just my take on it.


Does anyone know what caused the Z32's to have three different MC sizes? Was it related to options/packages on the cars, or was it just random? It seems weird that the brake feel could be as different on cars as a 15/16 to 17/16" MC would make it.