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aqua74
07-17-2005, 01:53 AM
hi im very new on this so here i go!
i currently own a 1989 nissan 240sx..engine type KA24 EU

HISTORY:

well my nissan has no modification at all & thats how i like it...thats just me.

well for a 149,000 mile car its naturally acting up. i sent 4 used injectores to this place to rebuild/balance them and installed them back...car ran great!
but recently i was driving to the store; i parked ; came back ,turned it on and the whole engine was shacking excesevly.
i took it to the dealear and they messed with the timing belt and replace sparkplugs, wires, distributor, rotor and it performce better but not like before...they recomended to replace the injectors because of some leaking but i went for the O rings & cushings replacement and the leak stop... they also sugested to replace the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR; witch they sell for $800 some dollars http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tear.gif
well im in a tight budget like many others so i went to the junk yard and replaced it with a couple just to see if there was any more improvement....NADA-NOTHING-ZERO!!! no improvement.
http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/frown.gif....ANY ADVICE WITH THIS ONE PROBLEM OR WERE TO BUY A NEW ONE NOT THAT $$$!

they also said the engine had low compression!
well here comes the primary question.

HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO REBUILD THE ENGINE?

I BOUGHT THIS COOL AMATURE DVD IN HOW TO REBUILD A KA24 EU ENGINE...VERY NICE!
THE THING IS THAT IT DOSEN'T SHOW THE REMOVAL OR INSTALLATION.

ALSO HOW WOULD I KNOW WHAT KIND OF ENGINE KIT DO I NEED..U KNOW LIKE GASKETS, BERINGS AND STUFF...I SEARCHED THE WEB AND THERES DIFFRENT SIZES http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/confused.gif NEWBBIE!

CAN ANYBODY GUIDE ME ON THIS- LINKS; LISTS;

ANY ADVISE WOULD BE VERY WELL APPRECIATED!!!

insndrvr
07-17-2005, 08:18 AM
Rebuilding the engine is not going to help the bucking problem. That is engine management related. The only thing rebuilding will do is cost you money and bring the compression back up. I wouldn't bother rebuilding it. I would work on making sure all the engine sensors are working. Get an FSM (factory service manual), you can download them for free, and go through the diagnostics. You could also do a KA24DE swap with a lower mileage engine for probably less than you would spend to rebuild your engine.

rogoman
07-17-2005, 02:39 PM
By the way, the KA motors use a timing chain not a timing belt. If the timing chain wasn't making any noise, why would the mechanic be fooling with the chain.

The motor shaking at idle could still be due to a sticking fuel injector. Do an ECU code readout to see if there are any fault codes set.

When a compression test was done on all cylinders, did they tell you what the readings were? Here's what the readings should be:
standard 192 psi
minimum 142 psi
difference limit between cylinders 14 psi

Rebuilding an engine is a precision art. If you've never done one yourself, get somebody that's done it before to help you. Get some books on engine building to at least get familiar with the procedures. Get a Nissan FSM which is a must. If you don't know what you're doing, you can make some very costly mistakes along the way.

Basically what you'll be doing is disassembling, cleaning, taking the parts to a machine shop for reconditioning, then measuring and measuring and measuring, and reassembling.

Some of the basic things that need to be done for starters is getting the block boiled and magnefluxed, measuring the cylinders for out-of-round and taper then determining if the cylinders need only to be honed or bored to the next oversize. The crank needs to be magneflux and straightened then the journals measured to determine if they need to be reground to the next undersize. The rods need to be magnefluxed and straightened. If the block had to be honed or rebored, new pistons will be required.

There's a lot to reassembly. Measuring piston-to-wall clearances, measuring rod/main bearing clearances, wrist pin clearances, rod side clearances, crank end play, setting up piston ring gaps. The list goes on.

I don't want to scare you, but engine rebuilding is not cheap and does take time so if it doesn't need a rebuild, save your money.

cwdmark
07-17-2005, 03:37 PM
they also sugested to replace the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR; witch they sell for $800 some dollars http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tear.gif



your car doesn't even have a crank angle sensor, it has a distributor. i think someone's trying to rake you over the coals.

check your vaccuum lines, check your ecu for codes and check your compression.

asad
07-17-2005, 04:08 PM
your car doesn't even have a crank angle sensor, it has a distributor. i think someone's trying to rake you over the coals.



Actually, it does. The CAS on the KA is built into the base of the distributor, and serves the same purpose in the KA's engine management scheme as the SR's CAS with its engine management.

Asad

RDM_II
07-17-2005, 04:19 PM
You're both right and wrong. The KA has a CAM angle sensor, or better yet a cam position sensor, built in to the distributor, this is what is used for timing control.
S14s run a crank position sensor, but it only used for OBD purposes to diagnose misfire and serves no other function in engine control.

The dealer may have wanted the $800 for a new distributor, however that's probably with about $300 in labor. A new S14 unit is about $620 retail, the S13 SOHC unit should be considerably less since it doesn't have a coil.
The crank position sensor, if needed (not in this case) is only about $100 new.

As mentioned the problem with your car is either air, fuel, or spark, being that the SOHCs have a tendancy to have injectors issues I'd start there, then work out to MAF, coil, plug wires, IACV, etc. You'll probably end up with a simple fix of less than $50, could be as easy as a broken or crimped vacuum line.

aqua74
07-17-2005, 05:23 PM
http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/confused.gif
concerning codes; wouldnt the dealer find any; which they didn't...

or would i get a better respose doing it myself...oh yeh i do own the original service manual...so doing the diagnos wouldnt be a problem...but it'll be my first time...any thing to watch for if i do this?

concerning parts to replace like sensors & stuff...were could i find this kind of stuff for a good price ; specially for this aftermarket car? Dealers are killing me and the web is soo big...

i would like to replace all of the following for future insurance:

-E.G.R. control valve
-B.P.T. valve
-Pressor regulator
-Pressure regulator control SOLENOID valve
-S.C.V. control solenoid valve
-Air regulator
-A.I.V. case
-A.I.V. control solenoid valve
-Ignition coil & power transistor
-Air flow meter
-Crank angle sensor
-4 fuel injectors
-Engine tempeture sensor
-E.G.R. control solenoid valve
-Throttle valve switch
-I.A.A. unit
-Fuel pump

also im trying to find a part number list for for this car???

RDM_II
07-17-2005, 07:30 PM
Slow down mang, you're getting ahead of yourself. First off, don't replace chit unless it needs it. Codes may/may not show, depending on the situation. Usually the CEL only trips if the problem affects emissions. You could have a fouled plug and never know as long as it fired every fourth cycle.

Of the items listed, here's what would affect engine control:

Coil, MAF, CTS, IAA, IACV, and TPS. The SCVs would not do a thing unless the vacuum line was broken, then you'd only see a wall at 4k rpm, the car would behave fine otherwise. Same with EGR, you'd never notice it unless it was a cold idle and you were racing the engine hard. AIV is emissions only, motor could care less if it was there or not.
Even with those items picked out, the CTS would only affect idle after warming up, dumping fuel because it assumes it's running cold. IACV and IAA both would do little after operating temp occurs. Your main focus is injectors, MAF, CMPS, and TPS.
Follow the FSM and work it seriously, learn how each item works and affects the engine and go from there. Like I said it's something simple, it always is.

aqua74
07-20-2005, 11:55 PM
very well , just like my car & would like to replace stuff here and there.

what do u mean by TPS...?
were can i find the crank angle sensor(new) for $100 bucks as previously stated; i looked around but too pricy.
or any of this stuff!

ill keep u posted with any results! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/cool.gif

RDM_II
07-21-2005, 08:58 AM
TPS, throttle position sensor.

And as I noted above, your car does not have a crank position sensor. At all. Period. Buying one, even for $100, wouldn't do you any good.

aqua74
08-02-2005, 11:29 AM
well im replacing injectors...found original parts straight from the nissan dealer on the web :

www.nissanpartscheap.com (http://www.nissanpartscheap.com)

my PA. dealer was charging me $144.61 per injector

this www.nissanpartscheap.com (http://www.nissanpartscheap.com) place sells them brand new with warranty..............$97.29!!! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif
pricy but they just save me $189.28 bucks

thats the best price i found for original dealer parts!

well havent done everything yett ; my work keeping me busy!!! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/mad.gif

ill keep u posted....later

golfer17
08-11-2005, 02:40 AM
my vote is tps. my friend has been having problems with his car that seems similar (a bucking under partial throttle) and its because his tps plug is messed up and its not staying all the way on.

aqua74
08-14-2005, 07:01 PM
WELL I REPLACED THE INJECTORS..
CHECKED THE M.A.F. & T.P.S. ...THEY ALL SEEM TO BE ALL RIGHT.
THE CAR IS STILL BEHAVING THE SAME WAY; THEN ALL OF THE SUDEN IT RETURNED BACK TO NORMAL....THEN A WEEK LATER THE DAM THING RETURNED EVEN WITH MORE SHACKING

THE THING IS THAT WHEN IM DRIVING IT ON THE HIGHWAY IT RUNS REAL GOOD; BUT THE MOMENT I SLOW DOWN IN TRAFFIC OR STOP ON LIGHTS, IT WILL SHAKE LIKE JELLO!!

WHAT ARE CMPS...???

Blue_Chord
08-14-2005, 10:11 PM
I had the same thing happen to mine, it was a $2 hose that goes up under the fuel rail, or right under it. Its really hard to get to, and its a pain to fix, but it fixed my engine, and I also had some cracked fuel injectors, replaced them with use ones, put in new rings, and have had no problems since. Check for a cracked hose, mine was split in to, and was not even conected.

aqua74
08-15-2005, 10:34 AM
nope!

checked the pipes; there are all right!...had to remove a black metal plate next to the oil filter which was held in place by two screws on top and one in the bottom... dam that was hard!

oh yeah, is it normal that when i dissconnect the MAF while its idleing the car turns off right away???