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AZ_Dave
01-20-2002, 03:31 PM
Ok, my friend has decided to turbo his B14 1.6L. He can get a T3, and is probably going to use a small intercooler from a audi, saab, DSM or anything that is farely small. We have a couple of people that may be able to make a manifold for him.
We are mainly concerned about fuel management, and electronics. Can he use the stock ECU, or is a JWT recommended? Same question with MAFs and fuel.
He wants to keep the boost down around 7psi, will the stock fuel flow be enough at the high end?

Forgive me for posting a B14 question, but you guys are the smartest. Anything I'm missing??

Dave

**DONOTDELETE**
01-20-2002, 03:42 PM
b14 sentra, i think is what he means

AZ_Dave
01-20-2002, 03:45 PM
'98 200sx
B14 riiight?

01-20-2002, 04:30 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by s13sr20:
'98 200sx
B14 riiight?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's right. You should check the mailing list at www.se-r-list.org (http://www.se-r-list.org) and www.se-r.net (http://www.se-r.net) -- they have some info on GA16 performance. I believe HotShot makes a turbo kit for the GA16 -- you may want to have your friend look into that.

Now, as far as your questions. You have some options. The simplest and cheapest is to keep the stock ECU/MAF/injectors and just use a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator (FMU) to provide extra fuel through the stock injectors under boost. This is a proven technique for use on low-boost setups. It's not the best for making power, but it'll work.

The JWT ECU with bigger injectors is probably a better bet as far as power, but it's also more expensive.

You could also just add extra injectors controlled by their own separate controller.

Asad

AZ_Dave
01-20-2002, 04:48 PM
Thanks asad, that helps me out alot. I'm sort of the brains behind the operation. First step is moving the battery to the trunk, we've found a good DSM intercooler on ebay, and he thinks he can get a T3 Saab turbo from a friend. Cost is pretty high on the priority list, plus we'd like to see how much of it we can do ourselves.

Another question, what's the best way to run coolant and oil to the turbo?

Dave

01-20-2002, 07:15 PM
Well, this isn't really a 240sx question, but the info applies to basically any engine if you want to add a turbo.

A common place to get oil is from the OEM pressure sensor port. On KA's it's right next to the oil filter, I'm not sure where it is on GA16's. You can use the appropriate T-fittings and adapters and keep both the pressure switch and have an oil feed for the turbo.

Another option is to buy an oil "sandwich" adapter. That will let you run an oil feed, and, if you want, an oil cooler as well.

You want to use a -3 AN (3/16") line for the oil feed to the turbo. Any larger and you run a chance of flooding the turbo bearing with oil and having it leak past the seals.

Of course, you need to drain the oil into the top of the oil pan, or into the block (you may be able to drill and tap a drain hole into the block).

For coolant, a common source is the coolant lines on the throttle body. The purpose is to keep the throttle valve from sticking shut in cold weather.

Asad

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by s13sr20:
Another question, what's the best way to run coolant and oil to the turbo?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

**DONOTDELETE**
01-20-2002, 08:43 PM
I wouldn't suggest drilling into the block unless you have a lot of experience. First of all, the shards from the drilling will no doubt at least partially end up inside. Second of all, if you can't see inside, you don't know where you are drilling. It might be a thin wall, a thick wall or a spot that will affect the structural integrity of the block.

Also, if you mess up, it is a lot more expensive to replace than an oil pan. I can't imagine there being an oil pan on any car that is harder to remove than on the s14 anyways.

01-20-2002, 09:15 PM
Oh yeah...I should have clarified that I would only drill the block if I took the oil pan off first.

Removing the oil pan on a B14 Sentra should be a lot easier than on a 240, since I don't think there's a crossmember that gets in the way.

Asad

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tim:
I wouldn't suggest drilling into the block unless you have a lot of experience. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>