PDA

View Full Version : Badbiki USB Megaboard gets a THUMBS UP from me



_Def_
10-14-2005, 08:25 PM
As promised, after a little tinkering with the board I'm posting up my impressions. There is lots of info on this board at Badbiki's site: www.bikirom.com (http://www.bikirom.com) , so I won't go over the features or details here.

Basically, install is exactly like a daughter board, which means it's pretty easy. It was my first time soldering "fine electronics" and everything went off without a hitch.

The software is pretty easy to get around, and all the stuff you could want is in there for the average tune. You can add maps like water temp enrichment as well if you want to really "polish" your tune.

The functionality is really a lot like a beefed up daughterboard with consult functionality built-in, except you don't need to burn a chip to test something. If you want to see how it feels with 1 degree more ignition timing in the high vacuum area, just make the change(which is very easy with the operators and change value commands for multiple cells) and then shut the car off and upload the map. It's that easy.

My only software issue, which isn't Badbiki's fault in the slightest, is that my POS Pentium 233Mhz laptop can't keep up with the consult stream. It DL's and UL's fine to the board so I've tried quite a few tunes out, but it's very slow updating the consult stream so it's not all that useful. Not his fault, since this old beast can barely load up a web browser. Just be aware that you need at least a "halfway decent" lappy to get by if you want all the features. I'd suggest something in the 450-500Mhz range at minimum with a decent amount of RAM(maybe 196MB or more). You might be able to run it with less power, but don't go too slow as the software is doing a bunch of things at once.

The only real annoyance with the whole board itself is that the USB cable sticks out the back of the ECU on a LHD car, so that you can't really mount the ECU back up to the car with the stock supports while the cable is plugged in. A 90* connector might or might not work, it's pretty tight back there. I might try flipping the ECU around on the brackets and see if it all goes together well with the stock harness going into it from the back and the USB cable coming out of the front.


Overall, for the price this thing is hard to beat. The hassle of burning new chips EASILY makes up the difference in price, and the consult functionality is really nice to tune with so it just makes the deal that much sweeter.

All said and done - I recommend anybody looking to tune their own car go this route. The software will only get better as time goes on, and Badbiki has really put some time in on perfecting things after the release.

jOeHaCk98
10-14-2005, 10:15 PM
To fix your USB problem, you can always get an extention cable. Thanks for the review.

_Def_
10-15-2005, 11:19 AM
I have a 6' cable coming out of the back of the ECU. The problem is that the USB port is probably less than an inch from the firewall when the ECU is mounted. A 90* connector might work, but they usually don't come with a type A male end(which is what I'd need, the other side is flexible).

Gonad
10-15-2005, 12:04 PM
Mount your ECU somewhere else then?

How would you rate the soldering of the circuit, on a scale of 1 to 10? 1 being easy, 10 being hard.

tErbobOOst
10-15-2005, 12:34 PM
Can someone explain what the consult feature is?

IKnowNothings
10-15-2005, 12:58 PM
how hard is the hex stuff to figure out?

do you like it better than the apex fc?

kaje36
10-15-2005, 01:34 PM
there is no hex to figure out, Badbiki already converted everything. only thing you need hex for is knowing the location of the information to be able to find/add maps.

also the soldering is very easy if you have soldered before. just clean out 40 holes. then put in the ribon cable and add solder. then solder 5 wires to large pins on the back of the ecu plug. then you are done.

_Def_
10-15-2005, 02:33 PM
Mount your ECU somewhere else then?

How would you rate the soldering of the circuit, on a scale of 1 to 10? 1 being easy, 10 being hard.



Hard to give it a "rating," but I'd lean somewhere in the 3-4 range I guess, with 1 being something like soldering two 16 ga wires together(about as easy as it gets). None of the stuff you have to solder is that small, so it's really not difficult to get in there and get things done. The install instructions are also quite good.

I had never soldered any fine electronics before, but after about $15 at the local Radio Shack for a better iron, fine solder and a desoldering bulb I was in business. Took me about 2 beers from start to finish with talking to a friend and double checking my work. Really wasn't hard at all.


Consult is a datalogging/diagnostic interface Nissan built into cars after about '91. This board taps into the data wires and allows you to see Consult data just like a dedicated Consult board would. It's really nice in that it shows you real time ignition timing, calculated load(really useful), injector duty cycle, MAF voltage, battery volt., RPM, speed, engine temp etc. So pretty much everything the PowerFC gives you this does as well.


As far as PowerFC vs. this board. I'd have to say that if you don't mind a short install with soldering and a little more leg work on your part then this board just can't be beat. It's about a third the price of a PowerFC, but it does need a laptop(which you can pretty much buy a nice used one for the price of a FC Commander!) to tune with. The laptop does make it easier to make a lot of changes and things like that, compared with what I've heard of the "sore thumbs" you get when trying to play Gameboy... I mean, tuning your whole maps. heh

The PowerFC is nice, but I think this is a much better deal all in all.

BillKlineVT
10-16-2005, 08:44 PM
I give the Badbiki USB Megaboard two thumbs up. I am pretty much the only one so far tuning with the s14 KA ECU (a couple others possibly, one just with stock map) and I can't complain. Not only is this really the only option for DIY s14 ecu tuning (minus converting harness plug to s13 and running s13 ecu), but it's quite a nice setup. Map tracing via consult is VERY helpful when tuning, and it works great with the program provided with the Badbiki board.

However, the data in the s14 ka fuel map are very much different than s13 or sr style data, moreso like the R34 fuel map, which I am working on. I currently have 3rd gear at 11.5-11.8 AFR in boost, still need to find time to iron out the rest and get to the dyno.

NeoBogz
10-17-2005, 03:39 PM
The options that he is going to release to the boards later make it a good HP/dollar upgrade. I can't wait to get rid of AFM and get MAP. And it will be able to controll my meth injection very nice.

Keep poting as you play with it more.

Gonad
10-17-2005, 05:27 PM
I am definietly going to purchase this, perhaps over the winter.

The BadBiki software is written in VB.NET and I'm pretty much a .NET programmer by trade (it's what I do for a living - although I'm not hardcore yet) http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

It would be cool to be able to access the API/Protocol BadBiki uses for its rom reading/writing engine.

I've solderered wires but I kinda sucked at it. I'm sure if i take my time it would be easy.

What are the chacnes of screwing something up to a point where the board is practically useless?

I know the soldering only involves changing the soldering on one jumper and then removing solder on 40pins and then soldering on a board adapter.

driftts14
10-17-2005, 07:05 PM
im a complete noob to this, is there anyway i would ever learn it? i want to try and tune my own sr20 too.

cyanide
10-17-2005, 09:34 PM
i was one of the first ones to get a bikirom when it came out, for my s13 sr20. i love it so far. the software is good and takes a little bit of knowledge to do things, but it's much better to learn how to do it yourself rather than pay a lot more money for other products out on the market.

IKnowNothings
10-17-2005, 11:26 PM
I would love it if it could work with gauge-tech or something similar, which would make it perfect.

link to what gauge-tech is
http://www.gauge-tech.com/

'97 S14 SE Turbo
10-18-2005, 08:24 AM
I give the Badbiki USB Megaboard two thumbs up. I am pretty much the only one so far tuning with the s14 KA ECU (a couple others possibly, one just with stock map) and I can't complain. Not only is this really the only option for DIY s14 ecu tuning (minus converting harness plug to s13 and running s13 ecu), but it's quite a nice setup. Map tracing via consult is VERY helpful when tuning, and it works great with the program provided with the Badbiki board.

However, the data in the s14 ka fuel map are very much different than s13 or sr style data, moreso like the R34 fuel map, which I am working on. I currently have 3rd gear at 11.5-11.8 AFR in boost, still need to find time to iron out the rest and get to the dyno.



Whats your exprience in running this setup with the S14 KA ecu interms of OBDII issues? Have there been faults triggered using the setup?

What I'm going at is this: Can the setup be used such that OBDII systems won't trigger a fault when it's time for emission testing.

doggunracing
10-18-2005, 03:02 PM
No direct experience, but from reading their forum, it seems very similar to a JWT ECU since it's just a daughterboard in a stock ECU. I think he had the same issue with the 97-98 ECUs, so a 96 ECU would be used like JWT does. Can you pass AZ plug-in emissions with the JWT ECU?

_Def_
10-18-2005, 08:38 PM
I've solderered wires but I kinda sucked at it. I'm sure if i take my time it would be easy.

What are the chacnes of screwing something up to a point where the board is practically useless?

I know the soldering only involves changing the soldering on one jumper and then removing solder on 40pins and then soldering on a board adapter.



It's really not hard to do. I just got a Radioshack 15/30W dual setting iron(some jobs require a bit more heat, others only need 15W and it gives you more time to be a n00b without heating things up a lot), a desoldering bulb and some fine pitch silver rosin-core solder(0.022" diameter I think, but one step up would be fine too, just gives you more control over how much you put down).

Desolder the 40 pin header on the board by putting the iron on the hotter setting at the bottom of the hole, then placing the sucker bulb on the top and let it quickly suck up the solder as you pull away the iron(so that you aren't sealing the hole with the iron). This works really easily. Once I got the hang of it I cleanly desoldered all the connections in about 20 mins. A dedicated desoldering iron that has a sucker built into the iron would make this go even quicker. You could probably get finished in around 5 mins in that case.

The soldering of the headers is 10x easier. Just put the headers through the board all the way and put the soldering iron at the base of the pins on the backside. Touch the solder to the pin and it should flow down. Make sure it makes a nice "cone", as this is a much stronger joint than just letting it barely fill up the hole around the pin. The solder won't flow onto the board since the metal is the only hot thing. Once I got the hang of this I soldered both headers in about 5-10 mins.

Moving the jumper, just heat it up and gently twist it with a pair of tweezers. It took me about 2 mins to pull it off, another 2 mins to make sure it was securely soldered on CJ2. Really not hard.

Soldering the wires is a bit tight, but it really isn't hard if you put some solder on both the wires and more on the base of the pins. Just heat up the extra solder at the base and stick the wire on it. Take the iron away and you'll have a strong connection. Use a little bit more heat here, since you're melting a lot of solder.

That's basically my experience. I was most nervous about the soldering of the install, but it's really easy to do once you develop a method for each part.

asad
10-19-2005, 06:25 AM
I've found that desoldering braid ("solder wick") works better than using a solder sucker, especially on small features.

Asad

_Def_
10-19-2005, 03:41 PM
I couldn't get the desoldering braid to suck up all the solder. Keep in mind you're not just trying to pull excess solder away, you have to completely remove it from a through-hole in the board. I got about half the solder up with some braid after a few minutes, but it takes about 10 seconds to suck it all out with a sucker bulb.

It is easier to pull away some excess solder with the braid on a surface component though.

asad
10-19-2005, 06:32 PM
I couldn't get the desoldering braid to suck up all the solder.



You do need a lot of heat to get the braid to work effectively -- your iron might not have been hot enough. When you get the braid hot, it wicks away all the solder, including from inside the holes, by capillary action. Or something like that http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Asad

Fred_Allen_Burge
10-20-2005, 10:04 AM
Or something like that



Right, like you don't know the exact science behind how it works.....uh huh http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif

_Def_
10-20-2005, 03:26 PM
My iron is only 30W at the max setting, but it seemed to get hot enough. Just had trouble pulling all the solder from the holes while a quick suck of the bulb worked best for me. Plus the braid is just another hot arse thing to burn your fingers. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif That's just my experience.

cyanide
10-20-2005, 03:30 PM
Def, I used the same 15/30W dual heat setting soldering iron from Radio Shack, along with desoldering wick. Did the job perfectly.