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View Full Version : The Datsun 810/ Nissan Maxima......



Nakazatos_U11
12-16-2005, 12:12 AM
With a new job with a future (and as my debts are minimalized) I want to start a project car, but something very different (and at least to me) very cool. The first Maxima/ last 810 is RWD and is powered by the L24E (this is pretty much a EFI 240Z engine right?) and one question too, did they come with a manual transmission and how common are they with sticks? Also seeing the Lauruel with the RB26 gave me an idea..... drop into the 810 a L28ET. I like the Japanese VIP cars and the idea of a fast 810 is very appealing. Can it be done and has it been done before? Also hypethetically speaking, how fast would be 'stock' (with the L28ET) or mildly worked over? Also am I insane to even consider this? Any ideas or opinions would be appreciated or even a "what in the Hell are you thinking!?" http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Five10PacksDE
12-21-2005, 01:08 PM
a old maxima would b different and new, although I would not see myself doing this. What do you want the car for? Attending any events? Do you just want a car for yourself to fix up for street driving? I would prefer to start out with something sportier, but that does not mean u can't b fast in a old maxima. I am sure a kick ass driver in a nicly built Maxima would catch some people's attention. I personally would not do it though

cardriver
12-21-2005, 01:13 PM
i used to own one. the max/810 already has the L28. the whole car is based off the S130 which is the 280ZX even the suspension sags like the 280zx did. the cars engine and tranny are the exact same from the s130 except the max never got the L28T just good ol L28 so making the swap to an L28T isnt really going to give you that many problems. not to sound like an a$$ but it has been done. but very kool none the less. need more info on swaps and and junk go here http://forums.hybridz.org/
that place is the ish.

Five10PacksDE
12-22-2005, 01:59 PM
Oh, it has 280zx rear suspension? I always thought it was a solid rear end.

cardriver
12-22-2005, 02:12 PM
yup. if you ever see one or drive one youll notice it will sag on take off. it also sags more bcuz its heavier than the 280zx but not by much.

Nakazatos_U11
12-22-2005, 10:57 PM
Oh, it has 280zx rear suspension? I always thought it was a solid rear end.


The wagon does have a solid rear axle.... the 280ZX and 810 share many parts and components.

cardriver
12-23-2005, 10:04 AM
yeah your right the axle is solid.

Five10PacksDE
12-23-2005, 02:57 PM
I am getting confused becasue a 280zx does not use a solid rear axle? What parts are similar to the 280zx? Just struts and brakes? I just wanted to get that straight. Some of you guys are saying it is similar to the 280zx, but a 280zx uses IRS with cv axles later years and U joint axles for earlier years.
Anyways, Have you sourced out parts like LSD, rear suspension? Everything else can be done, but a lsd and rear suspension upgrades could be a pain

davex2
06-07-2006, 12:58 PM
nakazatos,
did you ever start your 810 L28 project?...I've got one well underway. The engine is about to be installed.

davex2
06-07-2006, 01:23 PM
I'm usuing the old L28 engine (1976) I have the turbo manifold and a t3/t4 to go on it. The old L28 has 170hp stock. The engine has been rebuilt (stock) It will be intercooled and water injected. The old L28 computer will not work in the maxima because the pins are different. It will start the engine, let it rev and idle, but smoke starts coming out of the ecu. I,m going to use the maxima intake and ecu, then run a super afc to compensate for fuel. I'm only going to run 5 to 10 Lbs of boost (probably closer to 5) but i think that 250 to 300 hp will be possible, reliably, with water injection and intercooling. Oh by the way the oil pans have to be changed and an oil pick up tube has to be fabricated; unless someone knows a part# that will work. Is any body else out there doing a swap like this or have done? I do custom body and paint work on antique Jap cars. I am working on a bumper, tail light, and headlight kit to look like the 1981 skyline R30. I think the tail lights are ugly on the R30, but the on the maxima most definately have to be round.

PooFlinginMonkey
07-06-2006, 04:47 PM
I run a 910 maxima as the 810 was never called a maxima.

The 910 maxima got irs and some changes from 1983 onwards.

I am currently running a l24 with stock 280zx turbo manifolding on it and have been driving it as my daily driver for the last 6 months.
Another maxima I had ran a L28 with dished pistons and a p90 head but you have to change the pan, drill a new dipstick hole, and change the oil sump pickup. On that car, I used a z31 engine management system so I would have easier access to bin files that exist for that ecu. (1988 or later z31 16bit ecus).

Now on my current car, I was able to fit a super secret oil drain tube setup that did not require me to remove the pan or even the engine from the car. No, it doesn't leak and I should get a write up on it complete with pics possibly this weekend.

I'll also see if I can take some pics and do a write up on the R200 differential install.

They were available with a 5 speed and a ld28 diesel which I will turbocharge in the interest in developing it in the maxima and later on putting it in a 280zx.

The 1984/85 z31 wheels bolt right on with no spacers though at 215/60-15, they are a bit taller so a 215/55 would net the stock circumference and maybe they won't rub on hard turns while hitting a bump.

http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/03-12-06_1843.jpg

Now your best bet for appearance is to get some bluebird sss bumpers and headlights/grille package since it is the same car save for the irs, and being a bit shorter up front because they run 4 cylinders in the bluebirds.

cardriver
07-06-2006, 05:46 PM
thats bad ass! my bro and i want to do a l28et wagon

PooFlinginMonkey
07-07-2006, 04:35 PM
A wagon would be really nice but the downside I see on these early maximas is the interior appointments.

I just don't see how I can make this car look nice inside since it looks like the interior was put together with whatever nissan had available from other platforms.

The grey cloth interiors suck but maybe the rarer leather optioned ones are nicer.

BTW.................If you see a first generation maxima at a junkyard with a 5 speed, the brake and clutch pedals as well as the shifter and tranny crossmember/mounts are like gold to a maxima owner who wants to go to a 5 speed since they are damn rare.

cardriver
07-07-2006, 04:40 PM
yeah i know. my bro and i currently own an s130 turbo and 2 s13s. used to have a 1st and 2nd gen max but my dad wanted another car. they were all great cars just couldnt have too many cars all at once.

nelam
07-22-2006, 01:51 AM
My first car was a '83 Maxima. I was planning on a L28ET swap, and build the car from the ground up. It was still running strong with over 230K on stock engine and transmission. Too bad it got totaled (Rear Ended by a old lady on the freeway). I am glad to see, there are people who are into the 1st gen. Maximas.

Oh, BTW, I still have a Beck/Arnely remanufactured distributor off of my Max. I took it out before the insurance company tow my car away, and the dizzy was only on the car for 2 months. Please feel free to make an offer.

Thanks,
Nelson

Nakazatos_U11
07-31-2006, 07:11 PM
Unfortunately, I haven't started this as I recently bought a '02 SE 6-speed Maxima as the Frontier killed me on gas and I commute to San Diego at least once a week, that and it's ride was harsh on SD's craptacular roads....

Also I plan on moving out in the near future, as soon as my year is up with my new job and my checks will change a bit (heh heh). Still though, this just means I'll delay doing this as my '02 only further cemented my love of Maximas, so for all of you doing these projects, let me know.

montyz81
08-17-2006, 10:34 AM
I run a 910 maxima as the 810 was never called a maxima.


The Maxima was called the 810 before it was a Maxima. In 1979 and 1980, i believe it was then called the 810 Maxima. In 1981, 810 was dropped completely and it was just called the Maxima.

I have seen 1979 cars with 810 on oneside of the trunk lid and maxima on the other.

montyz81
08-17-2006, 10:36 AM
BTW.................If you see a first generation maxima at a junkyard with a 5 speed, the brake and clutch pedals as well as the shifter and tranny crossmember/mounts are like gold to a maxima owner who wants to go to a 5 speed since they are damn rare.

Will 280ZX pedals work? If so, I have 2 sets as i am working on converting my Automatic Z to a 5 speed. (yeah, i got an 81 turbo where only an automatic was offered)

Jaysun
09-11-2006, 11:44 PM
If you see a first generation maxima at a junkyard with a 5 speed, the brake and clutch pedals as well as the shifter and tranny crossmember/mounts are like gold to a maxima owner who wants to go to a 5 speed since they are damn rare

Geez, I never thought about how rare the manuals are. I have one fully intact...been sitting for awhile...it's in Atlanta...anybody want a 5 speed Maxima? I *believe* it's an 83 year model...

davex2
11-04-2006, 08:42 PM
I run a 910 maxima as the 810 was never called a maxima.

The 910 maxima got irs and some changes from 1983 onwards.

I am currently running a l24 with stock 280zx turbo manifolding on it and have been driving it as my daily driver for the last 6 months.
Another maxima I had ran a L28 with dished pistons and a p90 head but you have to change the pan, drill a new dipstick hole, and change the oil sump pickup. On that car, I used a z31 engine management system so I would have easier access to bin files that exist for that ecu. (1988 or later z31 16bit ecus).

Now on my current car, I was able to fit a super secret oil drain tube setup that did not require me to remove the pan or even the engine from the car. No, it doesn't leak and I should get a write up on it complete with pics possibly this weekend.

I'll also see if I can take some pics and do a write up on the R200 differential install.

They were available with a 5 speed and a ld28 diesel which I will turbocharge in the interest in developing it in the maxima and later on putting it in a 280zx.

The 1984/85 z31 wheels bolt right on with no spacers though at 215/60-15, they are a bit taller so a 215/55 would net the stock circumference and maybe they won't rub on hard turns while hitting a bump.

http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/03-12-06_1843.jpg

Now your best bet for appearance is to get some bluebird sss bumpers and headlights/grille package since it is the same car save for the irs, and being a bit shorter up front because they run 4 cylinders in the bluebirds.I'm interested in your turbo oil return...did you run it into the metal tube that vents the crank case? I've stopped working on my '83 automatic, because I just bought an '83 5 speed maxima, do you know if the front turbo ZX brakes are bigger than stock maxima front brakes, also will ZX pedals work in the maxima? the clutch master cylinder will bolt up to the firewall of an automatic. I removed a set of pedals from a ZX and it was a big job. It looks like the dash will have to be removed to install them into the maxima. Thanks for the info...

PooFlinginMonkey
12-06-2006, 04:41 PM
I just downloaded the pics to my computer on the oil return thingy and will do a quick write up on this thread tomorrow.

Crap........missing the most important pic on this so it will be another day.

kruiserkat
01-04-2007, 11:57 PM
I have an 82 810 with an 83 280turbo motor in it, this was done approx 15 18 years ago then the owner died and the wife sat on it until three years ago. it was in a garage the whole time now it is on my back burner and i am thinking about selling it.

hokman
02-16-2007, 08:17 AM
what suspension sag? tramp, squat, whatever you call it. :)
http://realper4mance.com/video/wsid_28012004/realper4mance_1rb26t.mpg

PooFlinginMonkey
05-08-2010, 03:07 PM
Found this old thread and remembered a promise to post pics.

Here's how you solve the oil return problem without taking out the oil pan or removing the engine.
I've used this many times over the years on 280zx and when fitting turbos to a few rear drive maximas that have front sump.
So.......19 years later, I finally do a quick write up with pics.
It doesn't work on all engine configurations but I will see if I can do it on my M30 soon enough.
You start with an oil pickup tube.........or two.
http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/08-20-06_1332.jpg
Then you use a grinder to take off the lip which will allow you to remove the screen and have a sweet surface in which to mate to the side of the oil pan.
http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/08-20-06_1334.jpg
Notice the fact that the tube will protrude into the pan which keeps as much oil as possible away from where it meets the pan.
http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/08-20-06_1355.jpg

Now you use the shortest drill bit you can find and fit a cut off bit for the starter hole that will allow a unibit (stepped drill bit) to gain bite and then drill to the proper diameter. Unibits have come a long way and their being short is a big plus in this case as I was able to use a pretty sizeable drill and still be able to do this on the car.
Use a rotary gasket grinder to smooth out the pan where you will be placing the flat side of your new flange as high as possible in the pan so thit it is not submerged when the pan is full and cut a relief if necessary but you want as much real estate in which your sealant will lie. Some obsessive compulsive types could fit a large diameter O' ring since it looks like you could fit one easily. I did not use one this time.
Test fit it to the pan and drill however many holes you want to hold it to the pan and then use the fact that you now have two holes in your pan to remove any metal particles by spraying brake cleaner with the wand to get them out of the pan. Maybe some worriers could use a magnet to confirm everything is good before finishing the install.
Then use some self tappers in stainless steel to tighten your flange to the pan with sealant.
I used the rest of the tubing from this one to weld onto the end of the stock turbo drain tube so it would allow me to use the stock nissan oil return hose (silver).
And here is the finished turbo drain tube and all parts used were genuine nissan save for the self tapping screws.
http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/03-13-06_1205.jpg
Still going 30k miles and 1.5 years later with no leakage.
Notice that there are no sharp 90 degree corners like the stock offerings which allow coked oil baked from heat soak in the beariing housing to accumulate and eventually clog it.............all smooth curves.

KASilviaAR
05-24-2010, 04:07 PM
Found this old thread and remembered a promise to post pics.

Here's how you solve the oil return problem without taking out the oil pan or removing the engine.
I've used this many times over the years on 280zx and when fitting turbos to a few rear drive maximas that have front sump.
So.......19 years later, I finally do a quick write up with pics.
It doesn't work on all engine configurations but I will see if I can do it on my M30 soon enough.
You start with an oil pickup tube.........or two.
http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/08-20-06_1332.jpg
Then you use a grinder to take off the lip which will allow you to remove the screen and have a sweet surface in which to mate to the side of the oil pan.
http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/08-20-06_1334.jpg
Notice the fact that the tube will protrude into the pan which keeps as much oil as possible away from where it meets the pan.
http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/08-20-06_1355.jpg

Now you use the shortest drill bit you can find and fit a cut off bit for the starter hole that will allow a unibit (stepped drill bit) to gain bite and then drill to the proper diameter. Unibits have come a long way and their being short is a big plus in this case as I was able to use a pretty sizeable drill and still be able to do this on the car.
Use a rotary gasket grinder to smooth out the pan where you will be placing the flat side of your new flange as high as possible in the pan so thit it is not submerged when the pan is full and cut a relief if necessary but you want as much real estate in which your sealant will lie. Some obsessive compulsive types could fit a large diameter O' ring since it looks like you could fit one easily. I did not use one this time.
Test fit it to the pan and drill however many holes you want to hold it to the pan and then use the fact that you now have two holes in your pan to remove any metal particles by spraying brake cleaner with the wand to get them out of the pan. Maybe some worriers could use a magnet to confirm everything is good before finishing the install.
Then use some self tappers in stainless steel to tighten your flange to the pan with sealant.
I used the rest of the tubing from this one to weld onto the end of the stock turbo drain tube so it would allow me to use the stock nissan oil return hose (silver).
And here is the finished turbo drain tube and all parts used were genuine nissan save for the self tapping screws.
http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/03-13-06_1205.jpg
Still going 30k miles and 1.5 years later with no leakage.
Notice that there are no sharp 90 degree corners like the stock offerings which allow coked oil baked from heat soak in the beariing housing to accumulate and eventually clog it.............all smooth curves.

I knew there must be a use for the left over pieces of the blown-up POS Celica motor I have. Nice write-up, and great idea!