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View Full Version : Internal to External wastegate conversion



nmap
02-20-2006, 01:31 AM
Hey everyone. i've got an s15 GT28R that i'm going to be converting to an external wastegate. Just wondering the best way to go about that would be? Is there a chance of warping that compressor side housing with the heat of the weld? Just trying to cover all my bases.

nmap
02-25-2006, 05:00 PM
Anyone? only bump. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/beatdeadhorse5.gif

robbbby
02-26-2006, 01:14 AM
Just weld the flap on the turbine housing.

I had mine on my 2540r welded shut with no problems.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rnotarangelo1/gt25/turboflap.jpg

knate
02-26-2006, 08:54 AM
Just weld the flap on the turbine housing.

I had mine on my 2540r welded shut with no problems.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rnotarangelo1/gt25/turboflap.jpg



Or if you would like it a little less permanent in case you want to sell your turbo some day.. just tack weld the swing arm for the wastegate closed.

Btw, are you planning to dyno before/after external wastegate? I've been curious about this on a GT28R as I have one also.

nmap
02-27-2006, 03:25 PM
Well, i would love to do a before and after, but i dont think i'm going to have time. i'm trying to get this together before the local Autox and track season starts. you might be interested in the car regaurdless though, and i'll be sure to post some dyno sheets.

Freshly rebuilt redtop w/ Wiesco "9:1" pistons (dont get me started on these...)
Full Race Bottom Mount w/ 44mm Tial
Bikirom
Deatchwerks 550cc injectors
ARC SMIC

We'll see how it all comes together. I'm just waiting on the manifold right now (through absolutely no fault of full race, i've been a pain in their ass and they've treated me great so far.)

I'm definately not planning on being competative on a national level, but hopefully i'll be running the Wendover Pro Solo this year assuming we get the car sorted out by then.

knate
02-28-2006, 10:52 AM
Yeah, will be interesting to see how responsive this makes it and how much power you can make. Definitely post dyno results when you're done.

sorce
02-28-2006, 02:42 PM
Freshly rebuilt redtop w/ Wiesco "9:1" pistons (dont get me



Sounds like you got the ones for a 60cc sr20det head ... You're not the only one whose fustrated with Wiseco http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

nmap
02-28-2006, 03:19 PM
i got the "9:1" pistons for the 45cc head (as evidenced by enthalpy, there is no 60cc SR head as far as anyone has seen or can tell). but the dish on the pistons still puts the compression ratio closer to 8.75:1. although irritating, i can get over that fact. there are other issues which i'll adress when i start this turbo swap. i'll be pulling the motor and answering some questions about a ticking in my motor which may or may not be related to wiesco pistons.

either way, i should have gone CP. lesson learned. but i definately wont be using wiesco pistons on my next project regaurdless of how my motor teardown turns out.

sorce
02-28-2006, 07:17 PM
i got the "9:1" pistons for the 45cc head (as evidenced by enthalpy, there is no 60cc SR head as far as anyone has seen or can tell). but the dish on the pistons still puts the compression ratio closer to 8.75:1. although irritating, i can get over that fact. there are other issues which i'll adress when i start this turbo swap. i'll be pulling the motor and answering some questions about a ticking in my motor which may or may not be related to wiesco pistons.

either way, i should have gone CP. lesson learned. but i definately wont be using wiesco pistons on my next project regaurdless of how my motor teardown turns out.



Yeah i got the 87mm with the same issue. You hear ticking too??? Sh*t, I was wondering the same thing, could it be the pistons cuz I'm hearing it too thinking it may be related to knock. Definitely let me know what you find, cuz I'm thinking about going with CP's too.

Luke_J
02-28-2006, 10:50 PM
i got the "9:1" pistons for the 45cc head (as evidenced by enthalpy, there is no 60cc SR head as far as anyone has seen or can tell). but the dish on the pistons still puts the compression ratio closer to 8.75:1. although irritating, i can get over that fact. there are other issues which i'll adress when i start this turbo swap. i'll be pulling the motor and answering some questions about a ticking in my motor which may or may not be related to wiesco pistons.

either way, i should have gone CP. lesson learned. but i definately wont be using wiesco pistons on my next project regaurdless of how my motor teardown turns out.



Yeah i got the 87mm with the same issue. You hear ticking too??? Sh*t, I was wondering the same thing, could it be the pistons cuz I'm hearing it too thinking it may be related to knock. Definitely let me know what you find, cuz I'm thinking about going with CP's too.



Could be piston slap... Alot of forged units will "tick" or "knock". Also look to the valvetrain. Most times, forged pistons will Rattle when they are cold. As they heat they expand and then quiet down. If the noise gets louder over time, I might become worried, otherwise, just enjoy them.

nmap
02-28-2006, 11:24 PM
We're describing a different sound then piston slap (which they do a little bit of until the motor warms up a tiny bit, not a big deal). I'll post results of my investigation. I have been given a good idea what it could be by a fellow forum member, but really dont want to post anything until I actually know what's going on.

Completely Cold or up to operating temp, at any RPM, at 10-20% throttle, even free revving in neutral it sounds like a tapping coming from the bottom end. i REALLY doubt it's detonation as evidenced by it's occurance revving in neutral, and the fact that the motor hasn't grenaded yet (completely stock except "high compression" pistons, stock turbo, stock boost w/ exhaust)

at least i think that's what he's talking about, because that's what's going on with my motor. Either way, does anyone forsee any issues tacking the wastegate flapper arm closed? any tips on ensuring a complete seal at the flapper?

dryft_s15
03-01-2006, 05:29 AM
I closed my flapper on the arm outside, then tapped it tight with a hammer to make sure it was sealed properly. Once you tack the swing arm to the bushing it sits in, hitting the arm will turn the bushing itself causing the flapper to seal even tighter.

You can try spinning the flapper door itself to check for tightnes. When you first weld up, you might be able to spin the round door. Hit it a couple taps, and you won't be able to spin it at all.