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View Full Version : PLEASE HELP ME FIX MY CLUTCH PROBLEM!!!



blacksr
02-02-2002, 04:58 PM
my clutch still doe not work porperly. when the pedal is fully depressed, the clutch does not completely disengage. so far i have done the following to try and fix it: bled the piss out of it, adjust the pedal, new master cylinder, new slave cylinder, new throwout bearing, realign clutch disk, bled the piss out of it again. i can't drive like this obviously so if you can think of anything it might be or anything i overlooked please post here or email me @ jzackz@hotmail.com

aim: hybrid240

p.s. this is on an sr and i'm using act clutch

**DONOTDELETE**
02-02-2002, 05:05 PM
would you explain a little further about your problem... how do you know it doesn't disengage? does it make a chainsaw noise?

blacksr
02-02-2002, 05:20 PM
well i know it doesn't disengage because i have to force it into gear when the car is on and the car either takes off or dies when it goes in...even though the clutch is depressed. also if the car is in gear (while off) and the clutch is fully depressed, and i start the engine, the car takes off or dies if i'm on the brake.

AZ_Dave
02-02-2002, 06:00 PM
Ok Im sure you've done this, but on my car, sometimes it won't go into gear like you say...so what I do is take my foot and pull up on the clutch pedal, and then when I push it back in it goes into gear. I need to bleed my slave cylinder to fix this...

Just my .02

Dave

**DONOTDELETE**
02-02-2002, 06:57 PM
try putting a penny between the slave rod and the clutch fork.

cjfast_1
02-02-2002, 07:22 PM
Did you try adjusting the rod (can't think of the name) on the master cylinder that's attached to the clutch pedal?

RDM_II
02-02-2002, 08:02 PM
Two problems I can think of. First, you may have accidentaly put the spring behind the thowout bearing retainer in backwards, I did that once and had a stuck clutch. Second, go back under the car and remove the bleeder block assembly, take the hard line from the master cylinder and turn it 180 degrees, then attach it directly to the slave cylinder hose. You've probably still got air in it, unless you're bleeding the car flat on the ground. That block is just an air trap.

blacksr
02-02-2002, 09:56 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by cjfast_1:
Did you try adjusting the rod (can't think of the name) on the master cylinder that's attached to the clutch pedal?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

i already tried that.

blacksr
02-02-2002, 09:58 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by R240NAII:
Two problems I can think of. First, you may have accidentaly put the spring behind the thowout bearing retainer in backwards, I did that once and had a stuck clutch. Second, go back under the car and remove the bleeder block assembly, take the hard line from the master cylinder and turn it 180 degrees, then attach it directly to the slave cylinder hose. You've probably still got air in it, unless you're bleeding the car flat on the ground. That block is just an air trap.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

i already removed the bleeder box. so what happened when you put that spring in backwards? did you have the same symptoms i have? i'm thinking i might have somehow got the wrong pressure plate or there is something wrong with the transmission

RDM_II
02-03-2002, 09:43 AM
With the spring in backwards, I got a bad case of clutch slip, anywhere over 3k rpm the car would just rev up, seems the pressure on the throwout bearing was just enough to keep it engaged. I pulled it all back out and found it very loose on the fork end. If this is the problem, you'll be able to tell easily by pulling the bearing retainer off the sleeve it rides on, if it comes off easily it's on backwards. With the spring right, it's impossible to remove it without taking the spring off first. Hope that makes sense.

blacksr
02-06-2002, 02:05 PM
i removed it and i bled the car while it was level, on 4 jackstands. the problem remains.

jdurning
02-06-2002, 02:46 PM
This may be a stupid question, but if one removes the bleed block, does it get replaced later? Or just leave it out and simplify the system. I thought the block was rather odd myself, I never had to deal with anything like that in my Toy, but is it in there for a reason?

jickel240
02-06-2002, 05:50 PM
Originally posted by jdurning:


I tend to say yes because my clutch acts real funny. Early in the morning there is a whole mess of play in the pedal, with only about the last 1.5 to 2 inches of pedal travel activating the clutch fork. Then about 10 minutes into my drive to work, the clutch pedal has built up a lot of back pressure and begins to throw out within about 3" of travel. Last week it was adjusted so far out that the clutch would slip, ie. engine would rev and the transmission would turn, but if the revs went too high there would be slipping.

My thoughts are that there is an air bubble trapped and I just need to get off my lazy arse to bleed it better.

Sound about right?

What I cannot figure out is how/why it does what it does. Does the bubble travel through the hyd. system, thereby making the clutch spongy in the morning yet stiff at night.

Any insight into that?

Thanks<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]Dude, tell me about it! When my car is cold, the clutch engages at the bottom of the pedal, so there is some play, and then in traffic when it gets hot, the clutch pedal feels stiff all the way through, but it engages at the very top of the pedal travel, making it hard to drive.

RDM_II
02-06-2002, 05:53 PM
Originally posted by jdurning:
This may be a stupid question, but if one removes the bleed block, does it get replaced later? Or just leave it out and simplify the system. I thought the block was rather odd myself, I never had to deal with anything like that in my Toy, but is it in there for a reason?<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]Nope, Nissan put it there to make us angry. I've talked to both Nissan techs and Sunbelt Performance, they all say it's useless. I don't miss mine at all.

blacksr
02-06-2002, 08:19 PM
yeah uh back to the original question, someone help me!

jdurning
02-07-2002, 12:36 AM
Yeash. I think I may have something along the same problem. Someone mentioned the car being flat on the ground when you bleed the clutch. I had the right front corner jacked up so I could reach under the car easier... Would that amount of height (~12") make enough difference to still trap an air bubble?

I tend to say yes because my clutch acts real funny. Early in the morning there is a whole mess of play in the pedal, with only about the last 1.5 to 2 inches of pedal travel activating the clutch fork. Then about 10 minutes into my drive to work, the clutch pedal has built up a lot of back pressure and begins to throw out within about 3" of travel. Last week it was adjusted so far out that the clutch would slip, ie. engine would rev and the transmission would turn, but if the revs went too high there would be slipping.

My thoughts are that there is an air bubble trapped and I just need to get off my lazy arse to bleed it better.

Sound about right?

What I cannot figure out is how/why it does what it does. Does the bubble travel through the hyd. system, thereby making the clutch spongy in the morning yet stiff at night.

Any insight into that?

Thanks

RDM_II
02-07-2002, 12:40 AM
If you bled it with the car up at all, you have air in the system. Remove the bleed block and you can bleed it at any level, and a lot quicker.

ka24detkyle
02-07-2002, 02:49 PM
have you put any thought into the clutch master cylinder. Maybe it's going bad and not pushing ENOUGH fluid to make the hydraulics work correctly. The rebuild kit is only like $15 at any parts store and can be rebuilt in about 10-15 min.

Just a thought...
Kyle

blacksr
02-07-2002, 05:21 PM
Originally posted by ka24detkyle:
have you put any thought into the clutch master cylinder. Maybe it's going bad and not pushing ENOUGH fluid to make the hydraulics work correctly. The rebuild kit is only like $15 at any parts store and can be rebuilt in about 10-15 min.

Just a thought...
Kyle<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]i already replaced that too.

'97 S14 SE Turbo
02-07-2002, 05:26 PM
Have you changed the pressure plate and clutch disk yet?

blacksr
02-07-2002, 06:43 PM
well they are brand new act units so they should be fine but no, i have not replaced those

'97 S14 SE Turbo
02-07-2002, 06:48 PM
try replacing the ACT clutch plate and pressure plate just for kicks since you just about tried everything else...

The pressure plate could very well be at fault. A manufacturing defect...

blacksr
02-07-2002, 07:20 PM
i wish i had 300 to burn but i really don't. if nothing else fixes it though, i may be forced to get new ones

Drivend
02-08-2002, 06:31 AM
I had a similar problem on a Conquest I used to own. What I did was took a V8 pushrod I had laying around and made a new rod that connects the slave to the disengagement fork. There must of been some difference in height between the original clutch and the aftermarket one I bought or a difference in the throwout bearing. The slave couldn't extend far enough to disengage the clutch. This is a cheap fix to try. Hope it works for you. http://www.freshalloy.com/

jdurning
03-15-2002, 10:25 AM
bounce, archive and score!

thanks