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View Full Version : S14 Dubeloz Rear Cross Brace - How to make it work!



codyace
01-15-2007, 01:56 AM
Most of you guys remember Gunluvs14's post about this rear cross brace (original link: http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?p=1372994#post1372994 ), and how it was a nice piece, but fitment wasn't exactly 'how it should be'. He commented about returning the product and getting a refund (excellent customer service), So I decided to take the chance of buying it (just to inspect it) and then see if I could make it work...if I couldn't, I was simply going to return the item like he did, and call it even.


The bars themselves, and the welding look look good. The only initial complaint was the actual middle connecting rod (sort to speak) and how loosley it fit into the bars themselves (it is a chinese product, so you can't expect DoLuck fit and finish for half the price)...but once you run the jam nuts tight, it seems to elimate any slop in the connection.

Much like Gunluvs14's posts, once you put the bar in, you can immediatly see that the bars are not welded correctly in relation to the flange, as the bars ended up 'meeting' where the center console was. Also, the hole in the flange for the seatbelt bolt is not large enough (not a huge deal, but it's the point).

Looking at the setup, it was easy to see that the bars themselves were simply not welded far enough back on the flanges, that they were not perfectly perpindicular to the bar, and that the bar needed to be 'rotated' in order for it to be far enough back to allowe seat movment and recline.

I started by cutting off the bars from their end flanges. Once I did this, I bolted the side flanges in place, and positioned the bars correctly. I noticed that it was near impossible to retain the stock location, as it would prohibit full seat movement forward/back. I opted to move the bars back on the flange, until they perfectly covered the rearmost large hole. Imp' not sure if it was just a simple weld error, or dumb luck, but the rear most holes are in the perfect spot, so I could move the seat full forward/backward with no hindrance.

After mocking up the bar to plate relationship, I had them tacked welded in place, before removal and having a bead welded all the way around. Caution: Both flange and bars have a laminate on them, to help them appear polished/chrome. This laminate needs to be removed (grinder/sandpaper) before welding, or your new weld WILL NOT stick.

Once I had the bars rewelded to the flange, I also went ahead and drilled out the forward most small hole to accommodate the bolt for the seatbelt anchor. I used a 29/64th bit to do the job, but any drill bit near the size of the stock seatbelt bolt will work.

http://www.e-rak.com/cody/albums/album14/Image00001.sized.jpg

http://www.e-rak.com/cody/albums/album14/Image00003.sized.jpg

http://www.e-rak.com/cody/albums/album14/Image00022.sized.jpg

http://www.e-rak.com/cody/albums/album14/Image00025.sized.jpg



I also at this point grinded away at the back of the plates, so the there was no excess flange behind the bar. I did this, so I could install the flanges on the outside of the carpet. I couldn’t think of a clean/simple way to cut it, so I figured this worked easiest (I used a razorblade to cut the carpet. One slit, parallel with the frame rail, and I was set.

http://www.e-rak.com/cody/albums/album14/Image00035.sized.jpg

http://www.e-rak.com/cody/albums/album14/Image00032.sized.jpg

After getting the bar in place and the carpet back down/around, I turned the middle nut in order to push the bars out into the frame rails, to provide tension into the frame rails. I then locked the jam nuts into the bar.

http://www.e-rak.com/cody/albums/album14/Image00031.sized.jpg

http://www.e-rak.com/cody/albums/album14/Image00029.sized.jpg



I have yet to drive the car yet (still up on 4 stands in my garage, I'm still hiding some more wires in teh engine bay, installing some suspension goodies (well even more we'll say) and installing a water temp gauge and stuff....just the normal winter 'clean me up' crap....

Overall the bar is nice (once fixed) and fits in the car well. The seats move forward and backward with ease, and the seats still recline all the way back (for the most part...it does get stopped at the end...) The customer service is fantastic, and Che offered me a 50 percent refund if I was able to make the bar work, and show her how to do it....

All in all, I'm happy, and it gave me soemthign to do over Winter Break :D


For more pics, or even larger full rez: http://www.e-rak.com/cody/gallery/album14

gunluvS14
01-15-2007, 11:52 AM
oh hell yeah dude, very good job :)
THATs the way I want it to fit, and have it sit flush with the rear seat is even better.

nice continous bead flow, looks very clean and "factory". Now i'm jealous :D
I might need to forward this to Che from Dubelozpart.

Great job man

codyace
01-15-2007, 04:31 PM
oh hell yeah dude, very good job :)
THATs the way I want it to fit, and have it sit flush with the rear seat is even better.

nice continous bead flow, looks very clean and "factory". Now i'm jealous :D
I might need to forward this to Che from Dubelozpart.

Great job man

Thanks bud!

The welds are just simply mig welds, nothign fancy...however I do stress that whoever else attempts this, to ensure they get that laminent/fake chrome stuff off, or welding weill be a nightmare (although it's easy to grind them back off hehe)

I fowarded my entire gallery page to Che, and she loved it! They are at the T.A.S. until the 18th, and she said she would refuned half my money (the deal I made for keeping the bar) upon here return...very fast responder, and excellent customer service!

gunluvS14
01-15-2007, 06:39 PM
cool, I really do appreciate their good business attitude. Hopefully they will fix it and sell the revised version RXB soon. I've noticed they took all of their RXB auction off, so that's good they are being honest

Blurple240
01-15-2007, 06:51 PM
Looks great!!!

How are you going to paint it? Shaker-can chrome?

codyace
01-15-2007, 07:22 PM
Looks great!!!

How are you going to paint it? Shaker-can chrome?


Honestly, I just left it go for now lol. If anything, I'll just paint the ends gray to match the carpet.....that shaker can chrome just doesn't cut the mustard...

orion
01-15-2007, 09:44 PM
Nice job, well done.

- Brian

TheWolf
01-16-2007, 07:36 AM
What is the point of this product?

codyace
01-16-2007, 12:54 PM
What is the point of this product?


We'll call it a 'ladder bar' (for lack of better terms) for the mid chassis of S chassis cars. I'm looking for it to help cut down on the side to side flex, and help keep the rear planted at higher (90+) speeds on track....

TheWolf
01-16-2007, 01:20 PM
so a bar that bolts to the car in 2 places in the middle of the car with a threaded center section is designed to limit torsional loads? I'm not trying to rain on your parade or anything but I don't see how any benifit would be achieved. I'll definitly have to design a test for this.

gunluvS14
01-16-2007, 02:39 PM
so a bar that bolts to the car in 2 places in the middle of the car with a threaded center section is designed to limit torsional loads? I'm not trying to rain on your parade or anything but I don't see how any benifit would be achieved. I'll definitly have to design a test for this.

dude, you don't need to make it harder than it is. Picture you have a long rectangular box and apply torsion load on both end, now add an extra piece transervsely in the middle, and it will reduce deformation because you have REDUCE the length of the moment arm (if you look at it from a side view, you facing a one rocker panel, treat it as a beam, one end push up, one end push down; now add an extra piece in the middle, its like a simple span beam with rigid support in the middle)

best would triangulate the opposite corner diagnoly, but due to space its not possible...

look at this... MS paint FTW :D
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d22/doridori1320/misc/RXBillustration.jpg

orion
01-16-2007, 02:50 PM
^^^ That...and people have raved over the SOTP feel after installing the "big-$$$ DoLuck" piece for years.

- Brian

Kim_Jong_Il
01-16-2007, 02:56 PM
Highly noticeable difference in the cars I have ridden in that had the do-luck installed. Do-luck isn't bad for $300.

codyace
01-16-2007, 04:50 PM
^^^ That...and people have raved over the SOTP feel after installing the "big-$$$ DoLuck" piece for years.

- Brian


Excactly. I look at this bar much like the improvement ladder bars have made in old mucle cars for years......

I'm actually looking at those DoLuck ladder bars myself, looking to see if I could rig one up my self using some stuff around the shop...

s14rhd
01-16-2007, 08:30 PM
How tight do you tighten this bar up I have the doluck for what its worth.

codyace
01-16-2007, 11:24 PM
Loosen the two outer jam nuts, and spin that inner nut/bolt and it'll tighten up...it pushes both sides out, or pulls both in depending on the way you spin it.....