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**DONOTDELETE**
03-03-2002, 10:56 AM
can minor exhaust leaks at the gasketed flanges, like at the cat and where header connects to the head, cause a loss of power? i can definitely hear a small leak. can anyone recommend good gaskets and where to get them? i'm using crappy napa ones for the cat and OEM for the header flange.

orion
03-03-2002, 02:15 PM
I like the aftermarket gaskets like the ones that come with the GReddy exhaust systems...

Use those with a little Permatex Red (high temp) RTV and you'll be guaranteed to have no leaks.

Later - Brian

03-03-2002, 02:16 PM
Originally posted by orion:

Use those with a little Permatex Red (high temp) RTV and you'll be guaranteed to have no leaks.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]Isn't Permatex Ultra Copper the exhaust sealant?

Asad

**DONOTDELETE**
03-03-2002, 03:26 PM
i'm going to stay away from using sealant on exhaust instead of gaskets, had some bad experience with it...

thanks for the summit tip but i have a KA24E. i figured there would be copper gaskets for the header flanges but is there anything for the cat flanges? those should be relatively universal.

[ 03-03-2002, 05:33 PM: Message edited by: mwreck ]

mike_t
03-03-2002, 05:32 PM
Well, you can always make your own gasket by running to your local Home Depot for a sheet of real soft aluminum. Find a good thickness, buy it and take the cat off of the car. Take the sheet of aluminum to the flange of the cat and make an indentation by tapping the other side with a mallet. Use a cutting tool / drill of your choice...

Mike

**DONOTDELETE**
03-03-2002, 05:35 PM
Originally posted by mTom:
Well, you can always make your own gasket by running to your local Home Depot for a sheet of real soft aluminum. Find a good thickness, buy it and take the cat off of the car. Take the sheet of aluminum to the flange of the cat and make an indentation by tapping the other side with a mallet. Use a cutting tool / drill of your choice...

Mike<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]that's probably what i'll try to do. what's a good thickness? should i make a double-layer one or anything?

SuperHatch
03-03-2002, 05:44 PM
Well, if my memory serves me correctly, aluminum has a lower melting temp that copper. this being said, I have melted copper gaskets in my exhaust system. I don't think AL would be a good idea. However, the gasket I have repeatedly destroyed is at the connection between my turbo and manifold, considering the temperatures turbo manifolds reach, that is most likely my problem, if you're NA all the way then you'll probably be fine with some copper, which you can also buy in sheets at Home Depot and is just as easily cut to your needed specs.

- Steve

97KAT
03-04-2002, 12:51 AM
Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com) has a copper one for header to engine.
Part # MRG-7216 .

mike_t
03-04-2002, 02:31 AM
I've had success with aluminum gaskets in my exhaust system under na conditions, but SRSteve's memory does serve him correctly -- copper has a higher melting point than aluminum. Melting point of Copper is ~2000 degrees F while aluminum is around 1100F or so. So, if you don't like the aluminum, grab a sheet of annealed copper and use that. Thickness? With the aluminum, I'd go a little thicker, maybe 3/16" or so. Thinner if you're using copper.

Mike

**DONOTDELETE**
03-04-2002, 08:49 AM
man, would you really have to crank down on the flange bolts to compress the copper? i dont know if the shoddy cat flanges are that strong, i've got a universal floating cat flange with welded on flanges, i've managed to bend the flanges before but that was because of one of those gaskets with the metal part in the middle and nothing on the sides.

carluch
03-04-2002, 09:35 AM
you can probably pick up metal gaskets for the cat flanges at a local muffler shop/parts store. the should only be a couple bucks...

03-04-2002, 09:49 AM
Originally posted by mwreck:
man, would you really have to crank down on the flange bolts to compress the copper? <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]I'm currently using the Mr. Gasket copper exhaust manifold gasket on my KA24DE, and I've found that I have to torque the nuts more than the factory spec in order to get it to seal well. Well, that, and i've re-used the same gasket a few times http://www.freshalloy.com/

But even the first time, it needed more torque, and constant retightening for the first day or so.

Asad

97KAT
03-06-2002, 08:41 AM
Summit has these I don't know if they will work but it beats tring to make them. Here is what I found. I was unsure what you needed. I tried to post the direct links but got a java error so here are the part #'s.

PART#
SUM-610125 Copper, 2.5 in., bolt,colector gasket ... $9.99

SUM-610130 Copper, 3 in., 3 bolt, collector gasket ... $9.99 B/O

SUM-610135 Copper, 3 1/2 in., 3 bolt, collector gasket ... $9.99

SUM-610250 Aluminum, 2 1/2 in., 3 bolt, collector gasket ... $9.95

SUM-610300 Aluminum, 3 in., 3 bolt, collector gasket ... $9.95

SUM-610350 3 1/2 in., 3-bolt, aluminum, collector gasket ... $9.95

[ 03-06-2002, 09:00 AM: Message edited by: 1997 240 sx se ]

**DONOTDELETE**
03-11-2002, 02:56 PM
i went to look into making a gasket out of a sheet of copper but they didnt have any 3/16 or 1/8th thick sheets, so i got a much thinner one. regular sheet-metal thickness, not much over a can wall kind of thickness. can i use two layers of this stuff to make a good gasket or should i just leave the old ones be for now and tighten the bolts?

03-11-2002, 03:03 PM
I don't know where these guys came up with 3/16" and 1/8" -- 1/16" is enough to make a gasket. What thickness is the material? And, you want to make sure to get annealed (or "dead soft") material.

Asad

mike_t
03-11-2002, 06:08 PM
Asad's right, 1/16" or 1/8" sheet of copper is fine for your application. The only gaskets I've seen in 3/16" were "dead soft" aluminum. You don't absolutely need that for an aluminum gasket and you definitely don't need it for copper.

Mike

**DONOTDELETE**
03-11-2002, 07:32 PM
i'm not sure what thickness it is exactly but it's not very thick. it's bendable enough that i can twist it around with my fingers enough, should be cuttable with regular scissors.

i saw lead sheets while i was there, now those were crazy soft. but then they'd probably melt 5 minutes after you start the car (which is kind of cool too http://www.freshalloy.com/ )