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statik
03-03-2007, 01:46 AM
After installing a cometic hg, and a set of hks step1 264 cams, I thought I was having trouble setting the timing but now im pretty sure the timing was correct all along:

The car runs like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUR9xHwtCmI"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUR9xHwtCmI

Idle is rough, but seems to rev up fine.

Thats probably the 5th time i've tried setting the timing via enthalpys guide. (See my other thread: http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=164746)

So I did a leak down:

http://www.teamhpi.org/timing/102_0812.jpg

Thats cyl #2, leaking into cyl #3 however theres no leak from 3->2, not sure how that works...

Then i noticed one of the cyl #2 exhaust valve springs are ticking (turn up speakers):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKK0Oyr8QAA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKK0Oyr8QAA

I confirmed it after i removed the vc, put a screw driver to the right most valvespring, you can feel the click through the handle. It only does it when the cam lobe is on the rocker arm, so im assuming the spring is shot. Any idea why its clicking though? Time to put in the built head....

SequenceGarage
03-04-2007, 01:34 PM
the idle seems okay considering you have 264s

i think you timing is about right

what did you torque your head back down to?

i had some hg seepage between 2 and 3 with my cometic as well, maybe try torquing the head down a bit more and hoping for the best.

as for the valve spring, that sucks dude.

steve shadows
03-04-2007, 03:16 PM
cometic's are garbage imo...

use them with stock head bolts only and make sure the timing cover is smoothed out in relation to the deck...

Apexi , PE, Tomei etc never give me probs even with crappy arp's

spdfreek0o
03-04-2007, 07:29 PM
crappy ARP's? I am so out of the loop on this one.

statik
03-04-2007, 09:34 PM
the idle seems okay considering you have 264s

i think you timing is about right

what did you torque your head back down to?

i had some hg seepage between 2 and 3 with my cometic as well, maybe try torquing the head down a bit more and hoping for the best.

as for the valve spring, that sucks dude.
I torqued the head to 80 initially, after i saw it was leaking i tried 85, no difference. As for the idle, I was pretty sure the 264 step 1's did not effect the idle like this, the car also tends to stall and I cant bring the idle up anymore, I would think a 50% leak in a cylinder would be causing the crappy vacuum/idle no?


crappy ARP's? I am so out of the loop on this one.

I second that, I thought the head's tended to lift with the stock bolts around 350-400whp. What alternatives are there?

steve shadows
03-05-2007, 04:51 PM
I was being sarcastic with "crappy arp's"

im using them and they are just fine but i havent touched the 24psi mark on my big compressor yet so Ill keep yall updated on that.

Mazworx offered to make head bolts and offer them, thats what I will be purchasing for a proposed stroker motor I want to have in the works this year.

Stock Head Bolts have been used well into the 500 hp range.

Myself included , have done several 400whp runs , racing, drag, canyon and dyno pulls on stock head bolts paired with different types and makes of metal hg. Stock head bolts are torque yield however and have to be replaced after every use with new ones.

Have you drievnt the car or heat cycled the motor yet?

statik
03-05-2007, 05:08 PM
Have you drievnt the car or heat cycled the motor yet?

Nope, once i heard the valve spring ticking I decided to just swap the head. Waiting on new arp studs.