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mike2016
03-08-2002, 01:35 AM
I just got my S14 SR a few days ago, a friend bought it in 97 and since then its never been touched. it's sitting in my garage now. http://www.freshalloy.com/

Is it possible to do a compression test before putting the engine into the car? and the engine is "dry", how can I preoil the engine? what should I do before I put it into the car?

Thanks!

[ 03-08-2002, 01:35 AM: Message edited by: mike2016 ]

**DONOTDELETE**
03-08-2002, 02:00 AM
I went same path you're about to step in so I hope my suggestions will aid you in some way.

- Make sure your oilpan is not dented or anything. This causes many problem, like the engine not cycling the oil and resulting . . . many bad things

- before you turn the key, disconnect the CAS (so it won't ignite), fuel pump fuse (so it won't deliver fuel) and crank couple times so the oil pump will start circulating oil. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. You can destroy a completely healthy motor in couple of minutes (basically due to overheating/lubrication). look thru the oil cap and if the oil drops on the cams while cranking, or touch the cams and if there's oil being sprayed, that means it's circulating so that's a good sign. Good thing to do is to use the air compressor (for air tools and such) and build pressure inside the head from the breather hole on the right side of the valve cover to push the oil around so the pump will pick it up.

- Make sure CAS is on right way, and not some rediculous timing. This won't allow the car to catch at all. So, if it trys to start but sputters, move around bit by bit so it'll start catching better.

- Fill up your radiator fluid!! And also let all those air that's trapped inside out. If you don't then it makes the cooling unefficient, so move the hose around, and unscrew the little bolt on top of the radiator neck (it says "don't open when hot" or something) right above the power steering pump so it'll completely get rid of all the air. Make sure you add water after you put few miles on your car cuz the engine needs to store fluids INSIDE the engine as well.

- Make sure you have atleast one electric fan. Not just the crank fan. This helps the engine stay cool.

- Put all neccessary fuids (I'm pretty sure you know but for other people: Tranny fluid, LSD fluid, Power steering fluid, OIL). Remember SR requires 3 1/4 quarts of oil. Putting too much causes the oilpan to blow and not enough will break the engine. Make sure you use regular oil to get rid of all those poop that's been building up inside, and switch out to Synthetic oil in 300 to 500 miles. Believe me, I'm glad I changed it quickly cuz mine was pitch black! Same with oil filter.

As long as you provide good cooling and fuel, you won't break your engine. Make sure you check on your water temp frequently, and listen closely for a noise. Ofcourse, don't rev hard until you drive atleast good 500 miles, just to be safe

I'll post more if I come up with more stuff, but this is about it for now. Let me know how it goes

[ 03-08-2002, 02:06 AM: Message edited by: NismoRPS13 ]

mike2016
03-08-2002, 02:08 AM
That helps! Thanks! I hope to get the engine running in two or three months since I'm doing it myself, and it's missing some parts so I have to wait for the parts...

btw, is air tools a must to do the swap??

Mav1178
03-08-2002, 02:10 AM
Originally posted by NismoRPS13:
- Fill up your radiator fluid!! And also let all those air that's trapped inside out. If you don't then it makes the cooling unefficient, so move the hose around, and unscrew the little bolt on top of the radiator neck (it says "don't open when hot" or something) right above the power steering pump so it'll completely get rid of all the air. Make sure you add water after you put few miles on your car cuz the engine needs to store fluids INSIDE the engine as well. <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]Um, if you properly bleed the coolant system, you wouldn't need to worry about "making sure the engine needs to store fluids inside the engine". A properly bled coolant system would have no air pockets whatsoever in the system, and it would not require you to move the car around at all.

The procedure for bleeding a SR engine is pretty much the same for the stock engine.


- Make sure you have atleast one electric fan. Not just the crank fan. This helps the engine stay cool.<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]Why would the crank fan be insufficient? Are you saying that the crank fan is useless?

If there is no SR radiator shroud, I agree that electric fans are needed... but if you have the SR fan shroud with the radiator, there is no need to add on extra electric fans.


- Put all neccessary fuids (I'm pretty sure you know but for other people: Tranny fluid, LSD fluid, Power steering fluid, OIL). Remember SR requires 3 1/4 quarts of oil. Putting too much causes the oilpan to blow and not enough will break the engine. <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]"Too much causes the oilpan to blow"???

Too much oil would get tossed around by the crankshaft, and would start to foam up and cause oil pickup problems. It wouldn't blow the oil pan.

-alex

97 S14
03-08-2002, 01:00 PM
Originally posted by mike2016:

btw, is air tools a must to do the swap??<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]Nope, but it makes it easier sometimes. I did 2 swaps with hand tools.

**DONOTDELETE**
03-08-2002, 01:06 PM
Oh, I forgot to answer that question. Sorry about that mike.

Yeah me and 97 S14 and couple other people have done couple of SR swap. It's tough, but you'll be able to do it without air tools. hopefully you have GOOD set of tools to work with. (deep socket, elbow (these are useful as hell, and that's what I call them) ,different length of extensions, 27mm socket for crank . . . etc.)

[ 03-08-2002, 01:08 PM: Message edited by: NismoRPS13 ]

SRFiveTen
03-08-2002, 11:59 PM
before cranking or turning the crank, remove spark plugs, all four of them. not so that they won't ignite, but for two reasons.
one, you can spray a good dose of wd40 down into the cylinders.
two, lack of compression will make it easier for your hand or your starter motor to turn the crank. (you can build oil pressure quicker this way)

it wouldn't hurt to remove the cam cover to pour some oil on your valvetrain.
if you need new cam cover gaskets for s14, i have some.

relocating the oil filter would be nice. it sure is at an awful spot to work on once you place the motor in your engine bay.

i splurged on 4 quarts of generic automatic transmission fluid with added detergent (something-con? i forget). filled the oil pan with adequate amount of atf and let the detergent take care of crud removal. drained and switched to synthetic oil.

when bleeding air out of your coolant system, if your heater is hooked up, switch it on so the coolant can circulate through your heater core.

compression test, should be conducted on a warmed motor. you will not get an accurate result from a cold, dry engine.

make sure your ecu and engine harness match, also that mafs matches your ecu.

another important thing, separate your transmission from the engine, inspect your clutch. disc can get stuck on to the flywheel and it's no fun to find out after the install.
if the disc is worn, replace while the powertrain is out of your chassis.
even if the disc is in good shape, splurge on a new throw out bearing while you are at it.

mrmephistopheles
03-09-2002, 12:07 AM
This is all very good info.. I motion for archival in Best of 240sx.

**DONOTDELETE**
03-09-2002, 12:40 AM
Um, if you properly bleed the coolant system, you wouldn't need to worry about "making sure the engine needs to store fluids inside the engine". A properly bled coolant system would have no air pockets whatsoever in the system, and it would not require you to move the car around at all <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]Yes the key word "properly". Well I'm looking from every possible situation the person may be facing and not making quick assumption. If it's "properly" bled, then just ignore it. If you feel like doing it, be my guest. How do you know that engine's properly bled? You don't. Maybe you don't need to do this cause you know you don't have to. Good for you. Well what if the others aren't confident in their condition of their engine? Assumption is mother of all f*ckup.


Why would the crank fan be insufficient? Are you saying that the crank fan is useless?

If there is no SR radiator shroud, I agree that electric fans are needed... but if you have the SR fan shroud with the radiator, there is no need to add on extra electric fans.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]I always play safe. Better be safe than sorry in any situation. And I feel the same way for anyone with SR engine. Since I live in Texas and he seems to live in Cal. I wanted to make sure the engine stays cool. I never said crank fan was useless. Again, don't jump to conclusions. See how I said "I hope my suggestions will aid you in some way". I'm not forcing anyone to do this


Too much causes the oilpan to blow <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]Ok, I over exaggerated . . . Maybe the term "blow" wasn't appropriate. What actually will happen if you have too much oil is it will over flow and gets on your turbo and causes lotta mess.

[ 03-08-2002, 12:42 PM: Message edited by: NismoRPS13 ]

WarpFlyght
03-09-2002, 03:48 PM
Originally posted by mrmephistopheles:
This is all very good info.. I motion for archival in Best of 240sx.<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]I was just thinking the same thing... Extremely useful info here. So, I second that.

03-09-2002, 06:32 PM
Any objections to leaving it up for a day or so in case any new info is to be added?

Asad

WarpFlyght
03-09-2002, 07:38 PM
Originally posted by asad137:
Any objections to leaving it up for a day or so in case any new info is to be added?<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]Definitely a good idea... I was going to mention that in my post above. I'm sure there are still people willing to chime in on the subject.

mike2016
03-10-2002, 12:08 AM
Originally posted by SRFiveTen:

relocating the oil filter would be nice. it sure is at an awful spot to work on once you place the motor in your engine bay.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]That's a good idea, it's already an awful spot even the engine is out, anyone knows where I can get the greddy oil filter relocation kit?