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**DONOTDELETE**
05-17-2002, 12:18 PM
pickle fork huh... is there any other way? stupid lack of tools!! thanks asad...i knew you'd know the answer...always do.

ka24detkyle
05-17-2002, 12:23 PM
I used the nut from the ball joint... thread it on the ball joint then hit the nut with a hammer and it will break loose. Use an old nut if you plan on reusing the original one. Not the greatest of methods, but if your short on tools, then it will do in a pinch.

Kyle

**DONOTDELETE**
05-17-2002, 02:15 PM
Alright. Well, hammering didn't budge it. I don't have a pickle fork so I tried this: I wedged my scissor jack between the bottom of the shock and the top of the control arm. I raised the jack as much as possible, but all that happened was the control arm bent.

I can't see how a pickle fork would do more, unless it does something to unattach the ball joint from the knuckle besides sheer force. I don't imagine it could apply more force than the jack did......ideas???

jimc-s13
05-17-2002, 04:12 PM
Originally posted by NismoSER:
I can't see how a pickle fork would do more, unless it does something to unattach the ball joint from the knuckle besides sheer force. I don't imagine it could apply more force than the jack did......ideas???<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]You hit the pickle fork with a big hammer, at least a 2lb sledge, but bigger is better.

Also, don't get the cheapy cast aluminum pickle fork, go for the nice forged unit. If you don't, you'll wish you did when your cheap one bends instead of separating the joint. I think they are less than $10, and then you'll have one next time.

Jim

phase3
05-17-2002, 04:18 PM
use a pulley puller

**DONOTDELETE**
05-17-2002, 06:07 PM
Ok, i bought the stupid pickle fork. Forged steel. I don't have anything bigger than your average hammer but a quick 5 minute session with it yielded nothing. I'll try again in the morning.

Is it possible that the little stud then bent a little and is stuck in the knuckle?

**DONOTDELETE**
05-17-2002, 11:09 PM
Hey,

I need some help on how to remove the passenger side control arm. I have everything off, except the "stud" that mounts the control arm to the hub assembly won't slide out of its hole. This is the stud that had the cotter pin in it. Is there a trick to get it out? I have all the new parts to put this sucker back together but I can't get the old piece off!! Thanks in advance.

-Chris- http://www.freshalloy.com/

**DONOTDELETE**
05-17-2002, 11:20 PM
why can't u bang it out w/ a smaller bolt and hammer?

I'm attempting to change my t/c bushings tomorrow am, hopefully i can be more help after that..

05-17-2002, 11:22 PM
use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. If you're replacing the ball joints anyway, it doesn't matter if you damage the old boots.

Asad

**DONOTDELETE**
05-17-2002, 11:28 PM
Sorry, I don't think I even read your post

I'm having a stupid day here... http://www.freshalloy.com/

**DONOTDELETE**
05-18-2002, 07:20 AM
Is it always this hard to get the damn thing out?? I bought the pickle fork, wedged it in there, and went at it with a small sledge hammer. Nothing. Well the boot on the joint broke and all the grease came out...but the damn stud didn't budge.

Is there anything else I can do?? This sucks!

**DONOTDELETE**
05-18-2002, 10:39 AM
Try wailing on the arm while lifting up on the knuckle. Always worked for me, takes a while sometimes.

jimc-s13
05-18-2002, 07:22 PM
Originally posted by mdsdm:
No wailing required. Get a ball joint separator similar to this one (http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=19652&BQ=jcw2). Just be sure to lubricate the threads and bolt-arm contact. Tighten it up and strike the female side (the knuckle) with a hammer a few times every few turns. It will break free a lot easier with the right tool.

This is the type of tool the FSM recommends for this type of joint.<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]Do you know if that specific tool will fit in there? I have a different type of separator which I used on the tie rod ends. It wouldn't fit on the control arm, and I was replacing the control arm anyways, so I just whacked it with a pickle fork and hammer. However, if that tool fits, I'll get one next time I'm working on that part of the car.

When I replaced my control arms, the ball joints came apart pretty easily, only a few (less than 10) whacks with a 2 lb sledge. Nothing like the ball joints on my old BMW which required about 10 minutes of pounding away on each side.

Jim

mdsdm
05-18-2002, 11:01 PM
No wailing required. Get a ball joint separator similar to this one (http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=19652&BQ=jcw2). Just be sure to lubricate the threads and bolt-arm contact. Tighten it up and strike the female side (the knuckle) with a hammer a few times every few turns. It will break free a lot easier with the right tool.

This is the type of tool the FSM recommends for this type of joint.

**DONOTDELETE**
05-19-2002, 12:53 AM
I just talked to my friend (nissan tech) the other day about this, and he said at the dealership they just whack the spindle with a hammer hehe. When I pulled some hubs and spindles one time I used the fork and hammer though. It was on a 95' and it took a liberal amount of pounding to get it loose. I almost gave up on it a few times and in the end I was tired and the ball joint was demolished.

Put some A$$ into it it WILL come loose! If the fork hasnt bottomned out your not done.

[ 05-19-2002, 01:53 AM: Message edited by: 96_S14_SE ]

95blacks14
08-29-2002, 12:44 PM
so what happen man? how did you get it loose? or you still havent done it yet? man i'm replacing the ball joint soon and i would like to know the details.., dealer replace the driver side and it cost me $120 http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif , so i rather do the otherside myself.., let me know man thanks