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**DONOTDELETE**
05-28-2001, 12:15 PM
Hey all,
I finished the building/installing of:
Homemade log style manifold. 1.5" I.D. Runners and .5" thick manifold flange.
HKS Standard wastegate
HKS GT3037s 52trim and .73a/r housing
3" crimp bent downpipe
New hot side intercooler piping

Before install impressions/conditions.

Wasnt much to see, but was a good performing turbo at 250ish hp. not a good turbo to push 300rwhp with.

GT2510 on stock manifold
Full boost would hit at 3500rpm 12psi
Full boost would hit at 3800rpm 15psi/race gas

EGT's for 12psi were 1500
EGT's for 15psi were 1650/race gas

the dyno curve shows power plateau at 6000 and falloff begins at 6500.
On the street it would ping above 12psi on pump gas. All timeslips done with 104 octane gas and only downpipe, no exhaust connected.

Best of 12.46 with a 1.67 60ft time
Normal of 12.5-12.6 with 1.7 60ft time

Current turbo setup impressions/conditions.
Manifold before being "painted"(2000 degree paint that flaked due to rushed install).
carson, i reduced size......if you need to edit to a link go ahead.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/p7447d2380c182276ce7a85defe17f9b8/fe5b0c2a.jpg.orig.jpg

This setup needs more exhaust airflow. The setup hits boost at 4200-4500 depending upon boost level. From the 1-2 shift, i get out of boost for the slightest of time. My buds say it sounds like a bog. But when she hits, whoa buddy. PURE ADRENNALINE. This turbo did EXACTLY what i wanted it to.

My FIRST run on this setup netted me a 12.8@12psi with a 2.0 60ft and PUMP GAS, THROUGH THE EXHAUST. The track was not hooking up at all for all racers at the Battle of the Imports in Virginia.

Second run was at 13psi and i got a 12.6 with a 2.01 60ft time. The rise in boost pressure got me 4mph in the top end.......112mph.

Third run was in the finals and at 15psi. I redlighted on a pro tree and didnt get a time. I looked down at the end of the track and showed 116mph. This is on line with the previous boost increase and subsequent mph increase. The guy i ran did a 12.9 and he was in my rear view at the end. I hooked up real good on this run. I lowered drag radial pressure to 13psi and lowered my launch rev limiter to 5500rpm.

All runs showed 1400f on my EGT gauge. Very good. Plugs show i was running a little rich.........i did this on purpose. I couldnt make it in time to get it dynoed with a wideband.

The things that really stick out are the late boost hit and the damn wastegate. Its freaking LOUD. I'm talking 2x's as loud as your local honda boys open wastegate. The sound permeates the cabin and sounds o so beautiful i just want to keep revving it. The wastegate is mounted to vent #3,#4 cylinders, so i get a rhythemic pulse every now and then as the RPM increases.

5th gear at 2500 rpm and floor it i get 5psi. Not really useable boost or power, but i didnt build this car for low end. I want that rev happy nature.

I'm hoping some 256 or 264 cams will help the full boost rpm to come down a little.

I'm really happy, i backed up my previous "normal" runs with:
shtty 60ft times of 2.0
pump gas
full exhaust
lower boost
And i get wows of the turbo being mounted top side on the manifold.

Any recomendations for cams for this setup?

One happy Do It Yourself'er...........out of 25 sport comp class participants, 6 out of our crew (of 7) made it into the quick 8 finals. ALL of us were in the 12's and very close racing. I was the only RWD at the race.........street car anyway.....

More to come in the future,

Derek Greaser


PS: Ty you'd hate this setup

http://www.freshalloy.com/ (power delivery anyways......Youd better like how it looks or else) http://www.freshalloy.com/


[This message has been edited by Greaser (edited 06-05-2001).]

[This message has been edited by carsonjon (edited 07-09-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Greaser (edited 08-18-2001).]

jvh22a
05-28-2001, 04:23 PM
how do you like the tec unit? is it had to understand the unit?

great work on your system.. !

**DONOTDELETE**
05-28-2001, 08:29 PM
Greaser, I am going to go turbo, but I heard 240's spin alot. What size width tires do I need to hook up the best to the pavement and also how much will the VLSD help me hook up? Can I get away without the VLSD, with just wide tires? What do you have to get the best traction?

Thanks Tony

3Leater
05-29-2001, 05:19 AM
Great Job!! Sounds like a fun ride.

If you want more exhaust flow you have a couple of choices (a few you might not want to hear).

1. Mandrel bent down pipe as large as you can find someone to bend.

2. Drop the rest of the exhaust system behind the down pipe at the track.

3. Build an equal length runner style manifold.

4. Build a short runner intake manifold. (more air in, more air out)

5. Good quality lightweight flywheel (should bring the turbo up 200 - 300 rpms sooner)

6. Wrap the exhaust manifold. Should cause the exhaust gas to expand a little more before hitting the turbo (minimal gain but may help a little). Usually this works better on a "long" runner style setup.

6. (My favorite, and by far the easiest) A 50hp shot of nitrous.

GOOD LUCK!!

What kind of fuel rail are you using?? It doesn't look stock.

**DONOTDELETE**
05-29-2001, 05:43 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 95240SENC:
Greaser, I am going to go turbo, but I heard 240's spin alot. What size width tires do I need to hook up the best to the pavement and also how much will the VLSD help me hook up? Can I get away without the VLSD, with just wide tires? What do you have to get the best traction?

Thanks Tony<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm using stock rims with 225/50/R16 nitto NT450's
On the track i use Lexus 7.5" wide rims with 245/50/R16 nitto drag radials.

Get the LSD and stick to small tires. Spending money on wider tires in place of an LSD will not get you much for the money. Get a quaife LSD and get whatever taste of wheel and tire combo you like. Personally, i'm either sticking with the stock 16's with some yoko's that Don N. uses on the black beast or go with the dream rims Forgeline with huge wheel width yada yada...

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by '97 S14 SE Turbo:
Greaser,
I think I'll call your car "Greased Lightning"... lol... Sounds better than "Fireball"
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah i like that one too. People from the stands didnt know my name so as they walked past, "hey, thats the fireball guy"

For those that didnt catch it, (i posted differently than i emailed)

On my last run of the day, i hit the launch perfectly and didnt spin. As normal i hit the rev limiter at the top of my shift(no i didnt sit on it) and the car spit Flames out of the dual tipped Bruellen exhaust. This was in the middle of the day and plenty of people commented on it. Earlier in the day, i came out of the hole pulling S corrections on the rev limiter and friends said they say small flames but nothing major.

My next manifold I may do with 1.25" runners. And then compare between the two.

I cant say i dont miss the middle rpm power, but damn i love the newfound 6000-7000 stay in power. Before, i could feel drop off and that used to piss me off, the car felt like it didnt want to rev. Now i just need to get it to hit full boost at about 4000 rpm. Should rival any small turbo'ed SR out there.

3Leater
05-29-2001, 05:44 AM
OH, forgot to mention.

The cams will help to bring full boost on earlier but your peak power will be pushed up closer to the 7.5k - 8k range (depending on the cams choosen).

A good friend of mine and I were calculating a good cam setup. We came up with a 270 intake and 256 exhaust. The only problem is that when we ran the cam on his computer engine buiding program it showed peak power happening at almost 8k. In a post earlier everyone suggested that I stay away from that kind of rpm. So, I would suggest something milder.

Anyway, thought I would pass this along even though you probably already knew this.

**DONOTDELETE**
05-29-2001, 05:52 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by URNDWAY:
OH, forgot to mention.

A good friend of mine and I were calculating a good cam setup. We came up with a 270 intake and 256 exhaust. The only problem is that when we ran the cam on his computer engine buiding program it showed peak power happening at almost 8k. In a post earlier everyone suggested that I stay away from that kind of rpm. So, I would suggest something milder.

Anyway, thought I would pass this along even though you probably already knew this.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Actually, i know very little about cams and such. I've got the basics down but dont have experience based knowledge of cam specs.

What program was it that you used?

Oh yeah, its a custom fuel rail. Using the same stock that every fuel rail builder uses, i just used a drill press and some tap and die.

3Leater
05-29-2001, 07:02 AM
There's no telling with this guy. He's a serious car builder and has worked on several major car teams...he's also a computer junkie.

The last program he told me about is the Rapidline Engine Calculator. http://www.rapidline.com/pc.htm So it might be this one. I'll have to check.

3Leater
05-29-2001, 07:20 AM
Yep. That's the one. He says of all the ones he plays with he really likes this one the best...very accurate info.

He also said the PRO version is well worth the money.

**DONOTDELETE**
06-05-2001, 07:34 AM
Hey all,
Just got back from the UNN meet in KC where we had my car dynoed.
13psi 307rwhp and 279.3ft/lbs torque
15psi 319rwhp and 302.7ft/lbs torque
100 octane to rise the detonation threshold as i wouldnt hear it if it happened anyway because of the open wastegate. Theses runs are with full exhaust.

Stock internals, stock cams/cam gears. Nothing but a JDM SR with homemade manifold and big turbo with engine management.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1503458&a=11347608&p=49859065

The spikes you see are the boost controller cutting boost from 16psi to 15psi. I programmed it not to allow more than 15psi and guess i had it set to high for the dyno run. I got it to stop fluctuating during the run by 5500rpm in time for the 6300rpm power peak.

Another thing to make notice of is the efficiency of this system. On my boost/vacuum guage i used to see 10 (inches of vacuum?) to go 63mph in a cruise condition. Now i see 12 on the boost/vacuum guage. This indicates less throttle opening/load on the engine to go the same speed. This also means higher MPG. I'm awaiting final numbers later in the week for my tank to go empty, but its looking to increase my mileage from 22mpg city with last setup to 27mpg city with current setup. Same driving boost 10~12psi everyday. With a whole lot more hp now at the same boost levels.

Next is some cam changes.
stock intake, 254exhaust
254intake, 272 exhaust
or vice versa. I think more exhaust duration and lift will get the turbo spooled up quicker.

I need to build back up my bank account.

[This message has been edited by carsonjon (edited 07-09-2001).]

3Leater
06-05-2001, 11:35 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Greaser:
[B]
Next is some cam changes.
stock intake, 254exhaust
254intake, 272 exhaust
or vice versa. I think more exhaust duration and lift will get the turbo spooled up quicker.
B]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Didn't realize before that you are running a SR (even though I should have with the red valve cover http://www.freshalloy.com/)

In that case go with a 264 intake and 272 exhaust. This should really kick up the power for you but your idle will be affected, if you want closer to stock idle go with a 264 intake and 264 exhaust.

Good luck and GREAT JOB!!!

**DONOTDELETE**
06-06-2001, 09:53 PM
Actually, I thought the TEC-II had some sort of option where you could get a smooth idle even with big cams...?

**DONOTDELETE**
06-07-2001, 05:20 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Adam:
Actually, I thought the TEC-II had some sort of option where you could get a smooth idle even with big cams...?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You can, but its not the best way. You have to switch program styles, and i think eprom as well. On a stock cammed or mild cammed motor, it shows considerable vacuum when idling, so the MAP has a chance to tell the ECU that the throttle is closed.

When you put big cams in there, the intake manifold does not have that same vacuum, hence the rough idle because air is not there. So you open the throttle to give them more air.

So the idea with the TEC II is to use the throttle position sensor TPS to sense load at idle or low throttle conditions and then switch back over to MAP once the motor gets going and has some vacuum/boost.

This is called "Blend" Think of it like this: You are at idle or cruising around, the TEC will use the TPS for load sensing, whenever you get into it a little more, the blend begins to switch over to map. This should be done on a dyno to ensure correct tuning.

Or just raise the idle and keep the same program to use MAP only. I've seen idle increases of 500rpm-1000rpm to work for Honda buddies with very high duration cams 280+.

**DONOTDELETE**
06-09-2001, 09:56 AM
What kind of welder did you use, it's looks like arc/stick welding.

**DONOTDELETE**
06-09-2001, 10:19 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Rolled240:
What kind of welder did you use, it's looks like arc/stick welding. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I used a stick welder. Every wire feed i could find could not supply the amperage of my next door neighbors stick welder from the 70's.

**DONOTDELETE**
06-09-2001, 03:09 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jvh22a:
where did you get the weld els? and how much?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

From an industrial supply shop. the elbows were $9 a piece and the Tee's were $22. The head flange was $90 and the T25 flange was $25

jvh22a
06-09-2001, 11:38 PM
where did you get the weld els? and how much?

AceInHole
06-26-2001, 02:00 PM
might be off topic, but i'm thinking about copycatting that for a KA engine (log style manifold). since i'll end up using the T3 off of a 300zx (hopefully, assuming i find one, but it shouldn't be that hard) i won't need to make the flange for the wastegate (it's internal right?). what piping diameter is it? (since i haven't even taken the heat sheild off of my header yet. . )
Also, instead of using weld el, is it possible to use cheaper material (i.e. normal header piping) and brace it to support the turbo?? in that case, would it be possible to buy the header off of a junked 240 DOHC, cut it, and put it back together in near the same fashion as a log-style manifold? i haven't really looked at it yet (i'm lazy, but i'm sure i'd get better answers from you guys).

Hooray for Do-It-Yourself-ers!!!!

"Hoping to not blow up his engine, yet."
PJ
"Ingenuity comes from poverty."

[This message has been edited by AceInHole (edited 06-26-2001).]

06-26-2001, 02:17 PM
You can...actually, the best thing to do if you did this would be to support the turbo with a bracket to the frame, so all the header does is direct gases to the turbo, without supporting the weight. It's doable...but why?? It seems like a lot more work, compared to just making it out of weld-el and being done with it.

Asad

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by AceInHole:

Also, instead of using weld el, is it possible to use cheaper material (i.e. normal header piping) and brace it to support the turbo?? in that case, would it be possible to buy the header off of a junked 240 DOHC, cut it, and put it back together in near the same fashion as a log-style manifold? i haven't really looked at it yet (i'm lazy, but i'm sure i'd get better answers from you guys).
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

AceInHole
06-26-2001, 02:24 PM
i was just curious. you already have the header, so if you modified it, it would ultimately be the cheapest possible way to make a manifold. also, $90 for a .5 inch think plate to make the head flange?? i'm assuming the brackets alone would cost less. . . a machine shop could take a plate and cut the holes pretty easily. i have access to one through an uncle anyways, but even if he paid $40 for machining, that's like $50 for the flange?? i'm probably wrong aren't i. anyways, i'll see what i can do for some weld el around here and just weld and machine it myself.

PJ

06-26-2001, 03:03 PM
Oh, if you wanted the manifold off a DOHC 240, that's cast-iron -- plenty of strength for a turbo manifold. It's kinda tricky to weld to cast-iron however. If you want it to last, it should be TIG welded...

Asad

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by AceInHole:
i was just curious. you already have the header, so if you modified it, it would ultimately be the cheapest possible way to make a manifold. also, $90 for a .5 inch think plate to make the head flange?? i'm assuming the brackets alone would cost less. . . a machine shop could take a plate and cut the holes pretty easily. i have access to one through an uncle anyways, but even if he paid $40 for machining, that's like $50 for the flange?? i'm probably wrong aren't i. anyways, i'll see what i can do for some weld el around here and just weld and machine it myself.

PJ<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

jvh22a
06-27-2001, 12:34 PM
for Tig machines check out www.krazearc.com (http://www.krazearc.com)

they have a really good deal on there inverters.
I'm ordering a 130amp Tig inverter in a few days.. so when i get i'll let you guys know how it is.
the machines are really light. and the duty cycle is high....

the guy is givine me a deal with the helmet..

jimmy

AceInHole
06-27-2001, 01:10 PM
Ok, so here's my cheap-o scheme:
Take apart the DOHC header (mine is a '95 which is a 4-1 right into the cat. . . so i don't think it will be that difficult to play with) and weld it into position. i'm planning on getting a junked Z31 turbo, so i could possibly get it with the manifold it's on, and cut off the flange/ collector and weld that to the DOHC header. with a little bit of work and research, this might be possible (then again, anything's possible. . .but for how much $$?). Anyways, it looks like this project might take a while, and i'll probably end up spending as much as i would on a kit (although i doubt it. . . ), and definitely more time and effort, but hey, isn't that how we learn??
the other things are: would the z31 injectors work or would i need them off of a z32? and i'm assuming the Z31 has a blow-off valve that i could adapt to my car somehow. add to that, an intercooler and possibly a fuel pump, and i'd almost be set (besides necessary gauges, which will be the only things bought new. . .).
"Striving to be the best, while spending less."
LoLz
PJ

06-27-2001, 02:54 PM
If you don't want to bother with trying to modify your DOHC manifold...you can use a "j-pipe" to mount the turbo. One end connects to the manifold outlet, the other end comes up and has a turbo mounting flange on it. Might be easier than modifying a cast-iron manifold. Heck, you might even be able to mass produce them and sell them! Hahah...ok maybe not...but, you should make it out of thick weld-el (probably 2" diameter stuff would be good).

Asad

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by AceInHole:
Ok, so here's my cheap-o scheme:
Take apart the DOHC header (mine is a '95 which is a 4-1 right into the cat. . . so i don't think it will be that difficult to play with) and weld it into position. i'm planning on getting a junked Z31 turbo, so i could possibly get it with the manifold it's on, and cut off the flange/ collector and weld that to the DOHC header. with a little bit of work and research, this might be possible (then again, anything's possible. . .but for how much $$?). Anyways, it looks like this project might take a while, and i'll probably end up spending as much as i would on a kit (although i doubt it. . . ), and definitely more time and effort, but hey, isn't that how we learn??
the other things are: would the z31 injectors work or would i need them off of a z32? and i'm assuming the Z31 has a blow-off valve that i could adapt to my car somehow. add to that, an intercooler and possibly a fuel pump, and i'd almost be set (besides necessary gauges, which will be the only things bought new. . .).
"Striving to be the best, while spending less."
LoLz
PJ<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

NIS240SHU
06-27-2001, 03:05 PM
For a good factory blow off valve, I'd use the factory Mitsubishi Eclipse BOV. They are very reliable and great for low to moderate boost applications.

Junior Cristovao
Turbo City Auto Body, Inc. (http://www.geocities.com/nis240shu)

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by AceInHole:
and i'm assuming the Z31 has a blow-off valve that i could adapt to my car somehow.
"Striving to be the best, while spending less."
LoLz
PJ<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

AceInHole
06-27-2001, 03:06 PM
I'll put some up on EBay when i'm done. Since you put up the idea, and it probably wont cost much to make (i'm assuming under $30 + labor = around $100). So um, i could sell em for a decent price, and maybe make a HONDA one out of say, aluminum for light weight. HAHA! ok, i MIGHT feel bad doing that, but if i do it and it works, it'll probably lag like hell or no?? (or if not, i'll just sell the prototype. haha). Thinking about it, it would curl off of the existing header and come up in a virtual donut. the problem is, i'd have to get rid of or move over my existing cat. i'll check it out tho.

jspecusa
06-27-2001, 08:58 PM
FYI--the GT3037S sells for $3,600 retail.
We still got one instock if anyone is willing to spend the money for it.
Thank you,

Sam www.jspec.com (http://www.jspec.com)

jvh22a
06-27-2001, 11:11 PM
here are some pics of the parts to make a manifold
http://www.geocities.com/jvh22a/turbomanifoldtubes.jpg
hope the pics work..

go here (http://www.geocities.com/jvh22a/turbomanifold.html)



[This message has been edited by jvh22a (edited 06-28-2001).]

AceInHole
06-27-2001, 11:46 PM
I'm thinking the U- pipe is my best bet. it's the easiest/ most versatile method now that i think of it. if i can just move the cat over a bit (only a few inches) i can make a flange that has holes for both the manifold to U-pipe and downpipe to cat, so that the cat is still supported fully by the manifold/header. then if i want to take the turbo off and have a driveable car, i can unbolt everything, and re-attach the cat to the header, plug the oil and coolant lines, and drive. of course. . . then there's the fuel system . . .
when i'm done with this, i might just end up with the world's easiest to install/ cheapest turbo kit!! lol. wow, i should start a business.

jvh22a
06-28-2001, 12:01 PM
i spent about $55. for 1 header flange,t3 inlet flange,2 t3 down pipe flange,1 wastegate flange.

then i got the tubes 6 J tubes for $75 and a collector for $10.

i can't post pics but you can check it out at the link above.

BlownS13
06-28-2001, 06:40 PM
Copied and pasted some of the specs from the turbo I'm going to below..........

Do you know what the flow rate is on this turbo compared to the one you just upgraded to??

The compressor housing A/R is T04E series turbo (50) with a number 11 compressor wheel (Garrett P/N 442476-0011). Measurements on the compressor wheel: OD = 2.2", ID = 2,99", height = 1.5". The turbine housing is a t3 with .48 A/R, narrow base, open throat. The turbine shaft is a T3, slope ground to high performance specs.

**DONOTDELETE**
06-28-2001, 07:53 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BlownS13:
Copied and pasted some of the specs from the turbo I'm going to below..........

Do you know what the flow rate is on this turbo compared to the one you just upgraded to?? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You talking to me?

HKS wouldnt give me the flow maps. I asked some aussie guys and they said no. I asked rob caddle he said no. I asked ty and he said "whud you ask for again" http://www.freshalloy.com/ j/k

HKS GT3037s

GT3037: 48,52, or 56 trim 76.2mm BCI-18C compressor in T-04E housing.
84 trim 60mm UHP turbine. .61, .73, .89, and 1.06 A/R
turbine housing. Ball bearing center section.

I wish to gosh i could get maps or get differences between the trim sizes. I just wanna know, i'm not trying to freaking release the stuff to a race team or anything. Some smart people at drag races actually ask me what the airflow rate is and i have to say dunno. I HATE THAT.

I'm about to install an SR with another one of my BEEEUTIFUL manifolds (not) with TO4E50 trim with SDS. This will be good for all the SR owners as i will be the one tuning the motor. You can be sure i'll ring the last drop out of it for the last descriptive thought of the power delivery character and HP potential.

AceInHole
06-28-2001, 08:01 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Greaser:
about to install an SR with another one of my BEEEUTIFUL manifolds (not) with TO4E50 trim with SDS. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

A: Baaah. don't say that. If it wasn't for you and your "custom" manifold i'd have no hope of doing my own turbo project.

B: Think you could help a guy tune a KA turbo??

^_____^ heheh.

PJ (who can't wait to go junkyard shopping. . .i'm so ghetto)

**DONOTDELETE**
06-28-2001, 09:00 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by AceInHole:

B: Think you could help a guy tune a KA turbo??

^_____^ heheh.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sure. Bring me the car with a 6 pack in the back. well maybe more but for sure bring the 6 pack. I'm like the drunken master. I cant concentrate unless i'm drinking lol j/k though.

AceInHole
06-28-2001, 09:06 PM
hell, i have two 30's right here, and tomorrow i gotta bring my roomate's hard stuff to him. lolz, for a turbo tuning, what kinda keg do you want??
(note that PJ is a minor for the next 5 months. . . but that doesn't stop him)
"A beer to the demi-gods!! You know who you are. . ."

PJ
p.s. "Friends don't let friends drive drunk."
So uhh, don't drive drunk. (there, i feel better as a person already)

06-29-2001, 02:26 PM
Not sure how it compares to a GT3037. I'll bet the compressor wheel has similar specs (the T04E 50-trim is a good choice for an SR or a KA), but that turbine housing is WAY too small for either. A 0.48 A/R will totally choke off your high-end power. The minimum you want to consider for an SR or KA is a 0.63 A/R T3 turbine housing.

Asad

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BlownS13:

The compressor housing A/R is T04E series turbo (50) with a number 11 compressor wheel (Garrett P/N 442476-0011). Measurements on the compressor wheel: OD = 2.2", ID = 2,99", height = 1.5". The turbine housing is a t3 with .48 A/R, narrow base, open throat. The turbine shaft is a T3, slope ground to high performance specs. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

**DONOTDELETE**
06-29-2001, 08:39 PM
The GT 3037S starts really making power @ the 1.5 bar boost leavel and above on the 2 liter cars. Many have been dynoed @ 420 whp @ 1.8 bar, estimated 470~500 horse level.

**DONOTDELETE**
06-29-2001, 09:48 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Greaser:
I cant concentrate unless i'm drinking lol j/k though.

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he's not joking. =) i've seen him hahahaha ... j/p actually alot of people i know either drink or smoke trees while workin on their own cars...

BlownS13
07-09-2001, 04:32 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Greaser:
speed. This also means higher MPG. I'm awaiting final numbers later in the week for my tank to go empty, but its looking to increase my mileage from 22mpg city with last setup to 27mpg city with current setup. Same driving boost 10~12psi everyday. With a whole lot more hp now at the same boost levels.

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So how's the new gas mileage looking?? http://www.freshalloy.com/

BlownS13
07-09-2001, 07:19 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Greaser:
Another thing to make notice of is the efficiency of this system. On my boost/vacuum guage i used to see 10 (inches of vacuum?) to go 63mph in a cruise condition. Now i see 12 on the boost/vacuum guage. This indicates less throttle opening/load on the engine to go the same speed. This also means higher MPG. I'm awaiting final numbers later in the week for my tank to go empty, but its looking to increase my mileage from 22mpg city with last setup to 27mpg city with current setup. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

So what kind of gas mileage ARE you seeing now?

**DONOTDELETE**
07-10-2001, 08:08 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BlownS13:
So what kind of gas mileage ARE you seeing now?

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City driving i consider 30miles of highway and a couple good boosting blasts to get me on the to and on the highway. So i hit boost everyday.

With the GT2510 i could get 260-280 miles to a tank with filling up at 14 gallons
18-20mpg

With the GT3037 i can get 320-340miles per tank with filling up at 14 gallons.
22.8-24.2 mpg.

Pretty good for 250rwhp@9psi and up to 319.7rwhp @15psi.

I'm now trying to get make a 4" intake pipe with a cold air box behind the driver headlamp. This should reduce the intercooler temp and also my water temp which i've been having get hotter since this turbo install under cruise conditions.

**DONOTDELETE**
07-10-2001, 08:44 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Greaser:

I'm now trying to get make a 4" intake pipe with a cold air box behind the driver headlamp. This should reduce the intercooler temp and also my water temp which i've been having get hotter since this turbo install under cruise conditions.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Why such a big diameter? I run the Complete CAI from Injen and it is over 3". Plenty of air,
as the MAF and Turbine splines are restrictive anyways.
Oh, and it does drop behind the little grill on the drivers side(soon to be driving lamps from Don Nimi).
RZ

**DONOTDELETE**
07-10-2001, 07:56 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by spec240sx:
Why such a big diameter? I run the Complete CAI from Injen and it is over 3". Plenty of air,
as the MAF and Turbine splines are restrictive anyways.
RZ<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Asad is correct. 100mm or 4" inlet diameter on the turbo. Converted the MAFS to a speed density sensing fuel system setup with the TECII.

Its funny to see nissan people ask me how the car runs without the MAFS. "oh my gosh, it runs without the air filter and stuff"......i heard from a jubious fellow at the UNN meet.

Everyone remember the "SR in a 300zx" post? i'm trying to copy his intake system. I just need to get materials and time to build it.

**DONOTDELETE**
07-10-2001, 10:51 PM
Dah! I wanted to be the first to do that! no j/k http://www.freshalloy.com/

But I remember on www.speedlab.com, (http://www.speedlab.com,) before it went down, a company called ARC had a similar air box, which I believe was for an SR. It was a metal box with two panel air filters, one on top and one on bottom, it also had a short pipe coming out of the top right-hand corner. I noticed most of the Drag cars in Japan run a similar type of system so it has to have benefits. Any way good luck on the build and please share when you are done.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Greaser:
Everyone remember the "SR in a 300zx" post? i'm trying to copy his intake system. I just need to get materials and time to build it. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

07-10-2001, 11:11 PM
I think the GT3037 has a 4" funnel inlet. And, you can't compare a 3" (actually, 2.75") diameter non-turbo intake to a turbo intake. Clearly the turbo car will need more air than the non-turbo.

Greaser isn't running a MAF, he's using a TEC-II standalone engine management system, so no restriction there.

And the compressor blades aren't a "restriction" -- it's not like you're pulling air past fixed blades! The compressor blades are doing work on the air.

Asad

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by spec240sx:
Why such a big diameter? I run the Complete CAI from Injen and it is over 3". Plenty of air,
as the MAF and Turbine splines are restrictive anyways.
RZ<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

**DONOTDELETE**
08-16-2001, 07:29 AM
Bump for info from another thread......i'll delete this bump later..........

Shes still fast y'all. Leaned the fuel curve ALOT in the driveability and a little under boost and throttle enrichments. She seems like she's in cold weather with the snappiness and response. Its still 90+ degrees here so i'm happy. Found a way to datalog the output from the MOTEC wideband to my TEC II so i have a very finely tuned machine now!! woohoo........no more paying for dyno trips.

BioSehnsucht
08-18-2001, 06:51 AM
What *is* a MOTEC wideband? I saw you refering to it on the ML too.. I somewhere must have missed a prior explanation .. ?

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Greaser:
Found a way to datalog the output from the MOTEC wideband to my TEC II so i have a very finely tuned machine now!! woohoo........no more paying for dyno trips.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

**DONOTDELETE**
08-18-2001, 07:27 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial[/img]quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BioSehnsucht:
What *is* a MOTEC wideband? I saw you refering to it on the ML too.. I somewhere must have missed a prior explanation .. ?

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Motec's Professional Lambda Meter accels where other $100 sensors fail. The accuracy of a standard 02 sensor falls flat on its face anything away from stoich range for gas at 14.7 a/f. i would be on the dyno reading 12.0 a/f and my autometer guage would show a led representation of 13.0 a/f. These sensors are only accurate for economy tuning not power tuning.

Here is a link to the motec site for more info. http://www.motec.com/plm.htm
cost is $1500