View Full Version : finally my SR is running! need advice

11-06-2003, 01:16 PM
Just finally got my rusty running heheeh.. the car looks like a total disaster but finally drives well after i finally disconnected the blow off that comes with stock IC. Believe it or not i've been driving the car for past two week, with blitz bov installed, and of course stock one on the IC with the vacuum opening not even plugged and i was thinking to myself why is the car so damn freaking slow and why does it make all this noise under boost and why it cannot idle in the morning or keep its idle after it comes to stop.. haahahaah.. but yeah finally realized it, took it off, plugged all the vacuum lines and runs like a champ.. I had it at 10lbs and feels pretty solid, maybe little to much fuel but very very smooth, no bogging and idles like my mom's 2002 Camry now. :-) I will check tonight with the A/F meter and see how it runs exactly.

Now on to my question, is it safe to run it at 10-12lbs? Here are the following mods

S13 Redtop
Apexi N1
Z32 Fuel pump, filter
Air Filter
HKS 1.3MM head gasket
SX FPR - I will adjust the right PSI tonight and dyno Saturday to get the A/F perfect

Well that's about it.. like I said its bone stock.. also how much power can this car possibly make right now?

Its in an 89 Coupe body, that has absolutely nothing inside besides a skeleton dashboard (gutted from the inside) two front seats, and that's it.. no sound deadening, interior, heater, ac, so on and so on.. i will probably lighten it just a tad more when i take out the reinforcements, front seats to replace with lightest buckets i can find, and i think that's it..

Thanks everyone!

I'll post some pics of my beater soon i'm finally getting a digi friday!

steve shadows
11-06-2003, 01:23 PM
turn up the base fuel pressure at idle to 50psi, dont get scared your car will run very rich at idle, not insane but rich. You will be able to boost about 14 psi with that setup and 48-50 psi at idle, make sure you regap your plugs to .028 if you are runing above 10 psi or you will detonate and blow your nice little stock motor.

Also what is this car for? drag? road racing? you say you are in socal, you can come down and get a free look over from me and my buddy john if you want to make sure everything is hookedup right? were in long beach.

wheres the eg? did you sell it right after D1!!! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/mad.gif

jk let me know whats up

its not bone stock it has a 1.3 mm metal headgasket. My engine is bone stock haha 12.20ssssss


11-06-2003, 01:33 PM
do you have a downpipe and high flow cat /or testpipe? thats important too. other than that run 14!!!

11-06-2003, 02:23 PM
sup guys.. tks for the replies.. yes i forgot to add.. it does have a 3" DP.. and gutted cat.. i was thinking about getting a 3" test pipe made but peeps tell me this works too.. its only like 6" in length but diameter wise it seems like bottleneck point to me.

I will definitely look into the plugs.. i barely got this baby running.. plugs have never been changed whatever ones the motor came with 2 yrs ago.. btw, this car was just sitting in the garage with motor installed and not running for 2 yrs! But then again my brother was the owner back then that started it, then realized in the long run it will cost a lot of money and gave up on it.. so i picked it up from him 2 months ago and began re-doing it all again.. its a long story but thats a quick breakdown of how i went about getting this car.. whats the stock gap size of the plugs?? Also any suggestion on what plug to buy? It will prolly be good idea to throw a set of new ones.. also i gotta change oil.. my bro put pep-boys .69 cent pro line baby! the flag ship of pep-boys oil hahahaha.. i already bought some nice synthetic just gotta get around to put it in.. btw, yeah the nick name i use.. back from honda days.. long ago though... like back 4 yrs ago when i had my gutted the the floor eg w/jdm itr motor.. on some black n'red rnr's.. ahhh... but yeah i'm over that hehehehe.... hondas and their damn front wheel drive! great cars i'd still build another EG if i could afford it but this is just much better bang for the buck http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

where in lbc are you?

11-06-2003, 02:31 PM
turn up the base fuel pressure at idle to 50psi, dont get scared your car will run very rich at idle, not insane but rich. You will be able to boost about 14 psi with that setup and 48-50 psi at idle, make sure you regap your plugs to .028 if you are runing above 10 psi or you will detonate and blow your nice little stock motor.

That seems a lil high on the fuel pressure. And to much plug gap will not cause your motor to blow. Spark blow out and detonation are two different things

11-06-2003, 02:40 PM
the plug gap right now (stock) seems to be fine.. its running really relly smooth.. no hesitation of any sort, smooth as butta to redline.. idles so nice i'm beyond happy now.. of course comparing to before...

steve shadows
11-06-2003, 02:51 PM
where in lbc are you?

ebrywhars, seriously if you know anyone who street races in lb they will tell you of a dark s13 that is sht on grease and lightening lube.

if you want to meet up sometime i pmed you my info you can come by and say hi well be finishing up on a swap tonight

btw you should run some straight 30 in the motor for about 15 min, with some engine flush, then some valvetrain cleaner as well.

then drain the oil and put in another round of valve cleaner and striaght 30 run it for 1 day

then whaterver type of normal oil into it and change the oil filter if its an old motor. fram ph4836

for plugs id say if your in a hurry for now you can grab some bosh platinums, yeah yeah their cheap crap but i have them in my car right now with 25 psi and a little race gas they have survived one month of abuse and the engine comp is fine no knock on the knock meter on the multichecker either...

you can also get ngks for cheap with a lower heat range. Get plugs for a 1991 sentra ser the 2.0 de, then regap the plugs to .028 then drop them (well lower them safely) into their wells and torque them down..

i love eg's too ( breakfeast, lunch and dinner, especially here in long beach)

-steve http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

11-06-2003, 08:28 PM
fram ph4836

Sorry.. Fram 4386

I agree on your advice about flushing the motor out..never know how long they have been sitting.

11-06-2003, 08:31 PM
I also use the NGK or Denso Platinum plugs .. whatever is in stock..at Autozone or Advance.. for a 91 300zx TT. I do gap them to .028 though. Been doing this for all my swaps for a few years..

11-07-2003, 12:21 PM
Sup all..

Do you guys know exactly which model NGK plug is for SR20DET? I checked A/F ratio last night, didnt have the Fuel Press gauge to check but the AF meter ready about 13 to 13.5 at WOT all the way to readline.. so we turned it up a bit to 12-12.5

I'm not sure exactly how much Fuel Press this is, but i'll get a guage to mount and keep on the regulator from now on, i had been borrowing my friends (so ghetto) to set it then take it off.. Honestly i need this motor to last me so even if it means running it more on the rich side as long as its safe. Any advice? Also i just found out my rear end bushings are completely worn out so the rear end is hitting my N1 piping.. and started to make noise when driving.. Can i just get those bushings from the dealer or go with the energy suspension bushing for the whole rear.. i know its a lot more work since some of them will have to be pressed out of each suspension so its a bit hassle, i'm wondering if its worth the trouble.. the car is gutted like a tin can anyways.. i can see the pavement through few holes while sitting in the drivers seat so the car being more loud due to stiffer bushings will not bother me http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

11-07-2003, 12:40 PM
The stock SR20DE NKG plugs, which I also run in my SR20DET's is BKR6E. Plug gap depends on how much power you are making. Typically, you want to run as much plug gap as possible without having the spark blowout. The more gap you can run, the stronger the flame front will be and the more power you make. At your power level, I'd say start out at like .032" or so, and go down in .001 increments until you don't get any spark blow out. I'll bet you at .032, you won't get any under 14psi or so. As far as A/F ratios.. what are you using to check them with? Unless it's a wideband sensor, I wouldn't put too much faith in a stock sensor with a meter on it. With a volt range of 0-1 volt, it's easy to be off as much as 1.5 A/F ratios, due to discrepencys between factory sensors. Meaning.. 1 sensor might read .90 volts.. while another sensor in the same pipe at the same time might read .98 volts or something. That .08 volts is a BIG difference. Also, factory sensors change readings depending on heat as well. Get yourself an FJO wideband setup.. they go for about 450.00 and come with a digital readout. It accurately displays A/F ratios from 9.5:1 up to 20:1 in real time. Good luck with your swap..

11-07-2003, 01:01 PM
The factory SR20DET spark plugs are NGK PFR6B.

01-22-2004, 12:36 PM
Thanks to all for the replies, but unfortunately i must report a problem. I jumped into this thread as above is the description of the mods that the car has.

So finally i decided to put some good oil and change out the plugs. I found out that car had stock PFR6B's in there.

So oil is changed and i installed the wrong plugs, 5 heat range gaped .030.. car ran fine on the street but detonated after being driven for a long time and and then WOT.. So what i should have done i bought some BKR7EIX, gapped .030as i have read a lot of people use them here and are happy with them. The car still detonates at say .8bar

Before when it was running on those old OEM plugs i even went up to .9 bar on few occasions and no problem. Basically car ran like a beast while on those old plugs what the heck happened now? FPR was not changed, nothing was changed besides oil and plugs. I also wanted to add that back 2 months ago it was much colder in cali and the car still ran great, now its not even cold as it used to be.

Could it be that the turbo is slowly giving out and just making too much heat therefore causing it to detonate? I could turn up the FPR some more but then it will probably be way too rich low end. Any advice as to what may have happened and why is it detonating??? It never did it before..

01-22-2004, 01:46 PM
Take the rubber boots off the coil packs and if they are green or discolored and clean them. I can't even tell you how many times I've seen #4 be totally green inside due to moisture.

01-22-2004, 01:50 PM
I haven't seen any mention of ignition timing thru this thread. Has it been checked? Could you be maxing out your injectors?

01-22-2004, 02:58 PM
I will look into the coilpacks, as far as ignition is concerned it's set at stock.

The only thing that kind of annoys me is that this happened right away i swaped the spark plugs.. car ran amazing until then.. first i though it was bad gas but no way.. i'm on the 3rd tank now, i only fill up 91. Before car started acting up i've used gas at every local gas station and it was cool.. any other things i that could possibly trigger this? Btw i also checked the gap on the old PFR6 plugs that came with the motor like 2 yrs ago and they are .030 on the dot so i really dont think it could be the plugs, if nothing it should be running somewhat safer with a colder plug right? And i'm sure its not the Oil Change lol.. Mobil 1 Full Synth.. car doesnt smoke btw, doesnt idle ruff, runs really really smooth, but once the boost is turned up it will detonate.. 1st gear WOT, 2nd gear halway up it will just cut off.. If you guys read the first post i made sure car is plenty rich, also it ran on higher boost then this before w/about 20F lower temperature couple of months back..

01-23-2004, 12:05 PM
hey guys i thought of something elese.. as i have mentioned previously this started happening after i changed the plugs. I'm thinking since the plugs that came with the motor were very old could they have made the car run more rich? Therefore not detonating, and now that i have brand new proper plugs the mixture is a tad leaner and of course will cause detonation on higher boost? I'm going to try to get on dyno very soon to see the mixture exactly.. i dont think it could be the brand new plugs..

01-25-2004, 01:19 PM
problem resolved.. it was a freaking home depot coupling that was loose holding one of my IC pipes, no wonder car ran like [censored]! But nonetheless i'm very happy now.. i was able to ditch work on friday early and get on the dyno.. at stock boost with basically no mods it made 191whp and at 11psi made 215whp.. i guess those numbers are ok and the car feels great! now its fully stripped and ready to go to a painter.