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View Full Version : Assembling my SR20DE block.. :)



Turbob15sentra
04-21-2004, 12:00 AM
I've been working on my SR a little at a time.. kinda picking up the pace a little to get this thing in time for the SE-R Convention next month! Here's some pics of the assembly of my engine. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

http://www.fi-r.com/images/Myengine2.jpgGot the block back from bieng bored/honed and hot-tanked

http://www.fi-r.com/images/Myengine3.jpgI decided to use new Pulsar (54C) main bolts, as they are 20% stronger. You can tell the difference by looking at the top of the bolt. There's a dish in the head of it. The material looks a lot beefier as far as the grain of the metal.

http://www.fi-r.com/images/Myengine4.jpgGot the main caps in and girdle with the new bolts. We mic'd the crank pins and the block with the caps/girdle on and TQ'd down. I was amazed at how far off some of the clearances were from what the recommend bearing was (stamped marks on block and crank). I anticipated this, and bought an extra set of each available size main and rod bearing.

http://www.fi-r.com/images/Myengine6.jpgMy buddies helping to TQ down the main bolts.. The Pulsar bolts need to be a little more snug than the DE bolts. We used a TQ angle meter to get the final TQ specs. Using a TQ wrench after, we figured it to be 65ft lbs or so.. whereas the DE bolts are usually around 52-53ft lbs final TQ.

http://www.fi-r.com/images/Myengine5.jpgHere's a pic of the stock RWD DE rod and piston compared to the Saenz rod and JE piston.

http://www.fi-r.com/images/Myengine7.jpgBeautiful!! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

http://www.fi-r.com/images/Myengine8.jpgARP head stud compared to a factory DE headbolt

http://www.fi-r.com/images/Myengine1.jpgARP studs installed. It's wierd, you only have to hand tighten them in the block using a moly lubricant.

http://www.fi-r.com/images/Myengine9.jpgTQ'ing the head studs down. Final TQ recommended on an alluminum block was 65ft lbs using the ARP moly lubricant. I used a Cometic metal headgasket as well.

More pics to come... I have to get crackin' to get this thing done in time for the convention!

Travis

NOSTALGIC_HERO
04-21-2004, 01:27 AM
cool pics, aluminum blocks shouldnt be hot tanked.

54C rodbolts, hot, but you forgot their most distinguishing feature-- the little "g" stamped on the head of the bolt..also.. how are you seeing the grain of the metal????

what was your ID of the bores? did you scope out the bores before installing pistons? 86.575mm?

what were your clearances for the bearings? were you just using plastiguage? borescope?

werddddd

g81981
04-21-2004, 01:36 AM
Looking great. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Turbob15sentra
04-21-2004, 02:05 AM
cool pics, aluminum blocks shouldnt be hot tanked.

54C rodbolts, hot, but you forgot their most distinguishing feature-- the little "g" stamped on the head of the bolt..also.. how are you seeing the grain of the metal????

what was your ID of the bores? did you scope out the bores before installing pistons? 86.575mm?

what were your clearances for the bearings? were you just using plastiguage? borescope?

werddddd





I haven't had any problems hot tanking the SR blocks.. and I've done probably a dozen or so of them. Some people say it can warp the block.. but I've never had this problem.

I didn't see the "G".. I guess I didn't look hard enough.. I don't know the word to describe the metal.. but it looks like it was cut better.. or it was a harder metal from the tooling marks. Dunno... http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I didn't measure the bores... the machine shop that does my block work sets the skirt clearances I specify. I don't have the tools, nor the time to fool with that. I trust thier work.. it hasn't failed me yet. The pistons are 87mm, and I told them to set the skirt clearance at a tight 4 thousanths. The block was bored with a torque plate, and girdle/caps TQ'd down. We also have a cut tranny bellhousing that we bolt to the block when boring it.

For the bearings... I mic'd the crank pins.. and then used a spring loaded snap tool and micrometer to measure the block with the caps/girdle TQ'd down. I set the main bearing clearances at about 1/2 a thousanth of an inch. There was a little variance between all 5, but all are very close to that. The rods, I set at 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 thousanth of an inch. I also had the block grooved and bearings drilled to provide the rod bearing with oil throughout the whole 360* of crank rotation. JWT does this at a decent price.

Travis

Irie_eyes
04-21-2004, 03:27 AM
It's wierd, you only have to hand tighten them in the block using a moly lubricant.



I was going to say "how could you tighten them", but then I realized you could take two nuts and locked them up so you can use a wrench.

Turbob15sentra
04-21-2004, 04:24 AM
Well, some of the other studs I've used, had a allen-head key in the top of it.. and you tightened them to like 10 ft lbs. But those also bottomed out in the hole with a "bullnose" on the end of the stud. Oh well... I just hope they hold. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Travis

Kookz
04-21-2004, 09:29 AM
Well, some of the other studs I've used, had a allen-head key in the top of it.. and you tightened them to like 10 ft lbs. But those also bottomed out in the hole with a "bullnose" on the end of the stud. Oh well... I just hope they hold. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Travis

Torque em to 85 ft lbs (figured I beat Enthalpy to saying it).

Turbob15sentra
04-21-2004, 01:13 PM
85lbs? The max recommended TQ is 75, and that's on an iron block... are you sure about that?

bl200sx
04-21-2004, 01:27 PM
85lbs? The max recommended TQ is 75, and that's on an iron block... are you sure about that?



Ya, seems like alot have said they have had leaks at 65lbs with the ARP's, 85lbs is recommended buy Scott at secrett services.

BTW: cool pictures of work in progress.

Enthalpy
04-21-2004, 01:38 PM
85lbs? The max recommended TQ is 75, and that's on an iron block... are you sure about that?



yep on a non-o-ringed block go 85

o-ringed block go 80

I've had leakage at 65.

edit - looking good by the way!!! glad to hear you liek the GT25r too!! HAHAHHAHAH