Chapter 2- Converting from Supercharger to TT

[Eagle1]

This thread will now detail the build process we are going through, and I will try to put in pictures and details of various parts as we go along.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/New_Motor_1.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Eagle1's new motor - two different angles</font>

I have earlier today sent along a picture of the new motor, sitting on the ground next to my car, and Riff will put it on the board. The internals are all done but now the fun part of hanging on the turbos and other peripherals gets involved. As we actually get the pieces on I will report, as well as when we run into problems and perhaps have to decide not to do certain things.

[Eagle1]

http://www.cppistons.com/Pics/Web_Gallery_Dest/SCompact.htm

Here is a link to the company that we have used for the pistons, CP, and in particular pictures of some of the sport compact cars, both road race and drag, that are using their pistons. You will note a couple are 350Z cars using the VQ35DE engine.

[Eagle1]

http://www.pauter.com/4340_rods.htm

Here is a link to Pauter Machining from whom we are purchasing the rods for the engine. Like CP, Pauter is a Southern California based company with a long winning tradition in race parts.

[Eagle1]

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/news.asp

Here is a link to Jim Wolf Technology, who are supplying the modified Garrett ball bearing turbos, and the S2 cams. The set up is still prototype, and pending CARB approval at this time.

[Eagle1]

http://www.nittotire.com/tires_nt01_features.asp

Here is a link to the Nitto website in which the NT-01 tire that we will be running is described

[Eagle1]

http://www.enkei.com/RacingSeriesSpecs/NTO3+M.html

Here is a link to the wheel that has been chosen, and on that page you can click to see the production process that Enkei uses to strengthen and lighten the wheel.

[Eagle1]

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amk.aspx

Here is a link to the pre-oiler that we are going to try to fit to the engine, assuming we can find a proper place for it. Below is the link to the description of the bypass filter to which the pre-oiler will mount, the BMK-13 unit:

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf.aspx

[JasonPerformance]

not sure why that motor has a black front cover...

never seen that before...

http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

[JasonPerformance]

oh is this motor they have already started a build up on? I see waste gate and a hot pipe...

[Eagle1]

oh is this motor they have already started a build up on? I see waste gate and a hot pipe...



Yes. They do the build on a different block and take mine in on trade. This one has 16,000 NA street miles on it.

[Eagle1]

http://www.fluidampr.com/howitworks.htm

Here is a link to the fluidamper site that describes the application and its reduction of torsional vibration on the crankshaft.

[Eagle1]

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/G35.asp

Here is the link to the manufacturer of the iso-thermal 1/2" plenum spacer we are putting on the motor.

[helldorado]

oh is this motor they have already started a build up on? I see waste gate and a hot pipe...



Yes. They do the build on a different block and take mine in on trade. This one has 16,000 NA street miles on it.



That answers the question I was thinking about. I was confused as to if they were rebuilding your engine or putting a "new" pre-built engine in.

So my next question is, and the VRT guys could probably answer this better, do they keep semi-assembled blocks around the shop in preparation for build-ups? Just curious as to what steps they take in taking a used engine and getting it ready for the rebuild process. Any reconditioning, extra part replacement above the "built" parts, what their conditions for trade-in engines are, etc...

Just thinking as if it were my own engine going through the trade. Even though I know you take great care of your vehicle, I wouldn't want to trade in my 13k NA engine for a build and get your higher mileage engine thats been run with FI for over 22k miles. And maybe their build replaces or strengthens most/all of the more highly stressed engine parts, thats what I'm not sure of. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/S0016_0001_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Coupe booty hustlin' it on the Speedway.</font>

Helldorado:
I think that they are the best ones to address that, so I will lateral the ball to them to deal with what they do. But what you get is a new block and internals, a lot of the peripheral stuff is your stuff taken off the old motor and put back on again.
They can rebuild your block, or take a new block and build that, or another block from a car different than yours and do that. Whatever you want and direct them to do. The key component that you are swapping is the block, not the other stuff, and as long as they clean it thoroughly and it is not thrashed, it shouldn't matter too much if it is a few thousand miles different than yours. If it was 60,000 miles....yes I would be less than enthused. But anything under 25,000 seems fine to me. The pistons, cams, rods, etc. are all new. So is the clutch and flywheel to take the power, there is an intercooler, new pumps, fuel management, radiator etc. Not a lot left to get worked up over, and most of what there is, is carryover from your car, so you deal with your stuff anyway. A bunch of my stuff was already upgraded and did not have to be replaced, so we adjusted the price down for that (for example, the koyo radiator). And remember, you are probably going to want to take the opportunity to change all the miscellaneous hoses and belts on a build opportunity like this, not just the ones you have to change. There is some porting and polishing done to the heads and on their site I think they describe a lot of the work they do, whether it be to your block or the replacement block used. I will drop an email to VRT and ask them to send you a PM.

[JasonPerformance]

So they painted the front cover black then?

[helldorado]

Good to know, thanks! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

[WA2GOOD]

Helldorado:
I think that they are the best ones to address that, so I will lateral the ball to them to deal with what they do. But what you get is a new block and internals, a lot of the peripheral stuff is your stuff taken off the old motor and put back on again.
They can rebuild your block, or take a new block and build that, or another block from a car different than yours and do that. Whatever you want and direct them to do. The key component that you are swapping is the block, not the other stuff, and as long as they clean it thoroughly and it is not thrashed, it shouldn't matter too much if it is a few thousand miles different than yours. If it was 60,000 miles....yes I would be less than enthused. But anything under 25,000 seems fine to me. The pistons, cams, rods, etc. are all new. So is the clutch and flywheel to take the power, there is an intercooler, new pumps, fuel management, radiator etc. Not a lot left to get worked up over, and most of what there is, is carryover from your car, so you deal with your stuff anyway. A bunch of my stuff was already upgraded and did not have to be replaced, so we adjusted the price down for that (for example, the koyo radiator). And remember, you are probably going to want to take the opportunity to change all the miscellaneous hoses and belts on a build opportunity like this, not just the ones you have to change. There is some porting and polishing done to the heads and on their site I think they describe a lot of the work they do, whether it be to your block or the replacement block used. I will drop an email to VRT and ask them to send you a PM.




Well put Mr. Reeser (as allways), http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

We do machine and completely recondition all of our blocks, port and polish and even flow bench our heads, and balance and blueprint the entire rotating assembly on our built motors prior to assembly.

[WA2GOOD]

So they painted the front cover black then?





Jason, yes, on this particular one, it was "powder coated" black

[WA2GOOD]

Good to know, thanks! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/laugh.gif



Helldorado.........PM sent......... http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/Eagle1CoupeCaliBank_1.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Sun's out .... engine's howling .... you're driving a supercharged G35C flat out .... </font><font color="red[/img]life is GOOD</font>. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

One of the elements we will discuss later, it may be a Chapter 3 or Chapter 4 depending on how well subscribed to this thread remains, is a driving impressions of the set up when it is done. It could of course lead to some further tweaks or refinements (if I am lucky), or some major redo if I have goofed on part of this program. But if Scott is willing, since he is a professional contract driver, we may put him behind the wheel for his observations on how the car behaves, maybe get a couple of laptimes, ideas for further improvements, etc. But....the car has to get done first. And we have to break in the motor before we go full out with our hair on fire down the track. This section is going to be filled with "Parts" stuff and may be of more interest to the Tech types, but still hopefully valuable to all of us in some measure.

The final chapter will hopefully be videos zipping around a variety of different tracks up and down the states of California and Nevada.

[Eagle1]

http://www.importperformance.com/exedy/hyper-carbon.html

Here is a link that describes the Exedy Hyper Carbon twin disc clutch that we will be using.

[JasonPerformance]

EXEDY Carbon 2 Disc Clutch &amp; Flywheel (http://performancenissanparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4688)

EXEDY Hyper Carbon TWIN Clutch &amp; Flywheel

EXEDY has developed the best carbon structure with high burst strength and torque transferring capabilities as a performance clutch. With the carbon, we tuned for Friction Coefficient to get smooth operating @ Cold Condition like street, and High Torque transfer @ hot condition such as Race Circuit. Our Hyper Carbon Clutch has superb easy operation, best inertia and extremely high torque capacity in this class of product.

Application:

NISSAN 350Z &amp; G35
Engine Size: 3.5L
Year: 2003-UP
Engine Code: VQ35DE
Clamp Load: 2426lbs
Disc O.D. Diameter: 200mm

Must use OE Release Bearing
8 Flywheel Bolts required. Part # Z32 Flywheel Bolts...

[Riffster]

Okay, some noob questions about your clutch choice - what is the difference between single-, double- and triple-plate clutches? Why have more plates? What are the advantages/disadvantages of the different types.

Why carbon or ceramic? Which is better? Why not just good ol' plain steel or aluminum or some alloy (or is that what the 'carbon' clutch is - an alloy?)

- Riff

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/mounted_wheels_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]The Enkei NT03+M rims (which will be sprayed black) with the Nitto NT-01 race compounds fitted on them.</font>

As with many folks, I have bought a reasonable number of parts from Jason at Perf Nissan, including this clutch. He has been very good in matching my needs to the appropriate product when there can be an array of choices. They haven't named a room after me in the parts department yet, but I think a statue in the lobby could be in the near future.
I have not driven the twin disc, but do have the single disc carbon now. It is very lightweight, which reduces the inertial mass that needs to be sped up, or slowed down, and thus increases the efficiency and responsiveness of the transfer of power from the engine to the wheels. The disadvantage is that it is easier to stall when starting from a dead stop. But the carbon clutch can be slipped smoothly, and at least I found it to be quite capable of being civilized enough for Los Angeles rush hour traffic without a problem, something that is not possbile to say for many other lightweight high performance clutch and flywheel combinations. It also did not have as much chatter as the full metal types. The single disc takes about 400 lbft of torque, the twin takes about 600 and the triple takes about 800. The triple is for the GT-R, only the single and twin are available for the US version G and Z cars. On the track the lightweight combo is a sheer joy to drive, making quick rev matched downshifts much easier to accurately execute. I will let Jason give some of the other answers to the materials, cerametallics etc.

[Riffster]

As with many folks, I have bought a reasonable number of parts from Jason at Perf Nissan, including this clutch. He has been very good in matching my needs to the appropriate product when there can be an array of choices. They haven't named a room after me in the parts department yet, but I think a statue in the lobby could be in the near future.



http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/laugh.gif ROFLMAO!

But I should laugh, the tuner I use should have my check design tattoed on his biceps!


I have not driven the twin disc, but do have the single disc carbon now. It is very lightweight, which reduces the inertial mass that needs to be sped up, or slowed down, and thus increases the efficiency and responsiveness of the transfer of power from the engine to the wheels. The disadvantage is that it is easier to stall when starting from a dead stop. But the carbon clutch can be slipped smoothly, and at least I found it to be quite capable of being civilized enough for Los Angeles rush hour traffic without a problem, something that is not possbile to say for many other lightweight high performance clutch and flywheel combinations. It also did not have as much chatter as the full metal types. The single disc takes about 400 lbft of torque, the twin takes about 600 and the triple takes about 800. The triple is for the GT-R, only the single and twin are available for the US version G and Z cars. On the track the lightweight combo is a sheer joy to drive, making quick rev matched downshifts much easier to accurately execute. I will let Jason give some of the other answers to the materials, cerametallics etc.



One thing I have noticed is that some cars on the track show marked displacement when shifting - particularly the Porsches. I would assume this a function of driver skill - good drivers are smooth (in all aspects, not just shifting) and not-so-good are rough?

Is the coupe vulnerable to 'dancing' if an up- or down- shift is not made in the proper moment and in the proper manner? Or is it so heavy that displacement is not a problem but 'bogging' or even stalling is? Maybe with your coupe there will be so much torque available that even with the porkiness of the car taken into account, there may still be the potential for upsetting car balance on course, a no-no when pushing the limit. Would this be correct to say?

Okay, that gives me a start on intent here. Was there any competition for the Exedy? Nismo or others?

- Riff

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/frontwheel_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Left front wheel and tire mounted - note the headlight is out along with the front of the car as the engine is being replaced!</font>

I love this question, and maybe if I am extra nice to Scott we can get a "real" driver to step in with some thoughtful responses to your post, rather than just mine as a "pretender" to the status of being a race "pilot".

But lack of expertise is not a precondition to participation to posts on internet forums, indeed it almost helps to know little or nothing to weigh in with volume and enthusiasm...so what the heck, here comes my penny and half (being the modest sort, pretension to a full two cents worth is unseemly).

My feeling is that it is all about "smooth" on control inputs, whether they be to the steering, the throttle, brake, or shifting.

Not only does it relate to the direct input you put on those controls, but the expectations or demands you put on the parts, such as the tire sidewall modulation or the loading and unloading of the suspension front to rear or side to side. This is a part of road course or track driving that is very different than street driving. On the street you typically are "reactive" to the conditions, because you are going slow enough that you can do almost anything and be fine. But on the track you are going so fast that you have no time to react, and rather you anticipate and input commands to the car to make it do things at precisely the right point in precisely the right measure...or as close as you can get. You really have to have a feel for the car itself to do that.

A strong "awareness" of what your car can do under the paricular circumstances is essential (road surface texture, moisture on the surface and in the air, temperature, surface camber, tire compound and pressure, spring rates, sway stiffness...just listing the influence elements like this could go on and on for a couple of pages just to get it out on the table...and it really does matter, the faster you go). You develop some of this awareness through the oft cited "seat time". You just do not know what you do not know...so to attack that universe of ignorance or void of experience...you get out there and start going fast. But "go fast slowly". Creep up to the limits to learn where they are and most importantly WHY they exist for the car, and for you.

That then dictates what you can do. The faster you go, the less you can afford to be inputing or demanding any jerky action on the car or you will lose control, and what is jerky at 150mph can in relative terms be "butter smooth" at 90mph, or if not loss of control, then efficiency in maintaining speed.....and thus you lap slower.

To get to your point, you do not want the front and rear of the car to be "porpoising" up and down with brake and throttle inputs, or from harsh dumping of the clutch whether shifting up or down. Apart from being hard on the equipment, it impacts the aerodynamics and unsettles the car balance and takes time to recover. That can contribute to loss of control or slowing of the car. And at the wrong spot is downright puckering.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/Eagle1ClintandCo_CaliSpeed.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Eagle1 follows an NSX and Clint's (THX723) in his G35 Sedan at California Speedway. You've created a monster Clint!</font>

This does not mean that smooth equals slow. There is nothing slow about the golf swing of Tiger Woods. But it is smooth too. The same is true in driving. Practice and precision. When you are braking you learn to take it to the threshold of lockup, and then as you begin your trailing off the pedal going into the turn, you do not lift your foot...you relax your big toe. And EASE back on the pressure. You also step into the throttle with a squeeze, not a stomping stab.

For shifting you try to match the revs with heel and toe braking motion so that the engagement of the lower gear matches up to the engine speed required for the applicable speeed at precisely the right point so that the transition is seamless. Practice on the street to shift so that there is little felt "recoil" in the chassis, or change in pitch to the engine when you release the clutch. Again, you cannot "drag" it...there is not time for that on the track. But work it on the street and you will be amazed how your skills will improve with constant repetition and attention. Your passengers will appreciate it too.

As for noticing it with the Porsche cars, I think that is more a factor of those wonderful beasts being very high in horsepower relative to being very light in weight. Thus it is more noticeably bouncing or jerking to less skilled input. I do not think that in the hands of Hans Stuck they do that!

Got to get to work. Will add a bit later, but that should be a good start to the theme, and others can jump in.

[Riffster]

With some cars I notice that they 'hammer' around a course - a Cobra for example. I have ridden in a race-prepped Cobra at Road America and it is decidedly different from other cars (like my coupe!) The coupe is 'tight', the Cobra is far looser. It bucks and surges a lot more.

But that doesn't mean it isn't fast - and it really doesn't mean it isn't smooth - at least not when comparing it to other cars like itself. The smoothest inputs do result in better times.

I find myself looking *way* down the track as I drive. You have to run the course as a whole, not as segments. You have to 'flow' from one turn into the next or into a straight. The goal is try to make it around as fast and in as straight a line as you can. Yet, the seeming contradiction is that you want to use as much of the track as possible while doing this! But really the wording should be 'as much of the track as you need to go the fastest possible around the track!'

I was e-mailing a friend of mine who had wickedly fast turbocharged RX-7 (current NASA Midwest Unlimited Time Trial champ btw.) I noted him starting to early apex some turns on his latest (and fastest) sessions at RA. I asked him about this since the advice at RA is to late apex as often as possible.

His answer? He had talked to a lot of pro-class drivers and they had said that as one starting getting very fast, the improvements in time would come very grudgingly and only by 'gambling.'

'Gambling' meant (literally) cutting corners - taking a shorter path through early apexing a corner. For example, at turn 12A and 13 (the bend before the bridge and the turn at the Billy Mitchell Brige) at RA. The usual method is to exit the Canada Corner (turn 12) and come over from track-out at the turn (way left) and go all the way over to the right edge of the track to make the fast sweeping left hander under the bridge and then out to track-out on the right past the bridge (where the exit road is.)

His modified 'gamblers version' was to not drift wide to the right on 12A and cut in early through Turn 13 under the bridge. That poses a risk because the danger is that you will run out of road after the bridge and cut some grass (or worse) on the right edge of the course before Turn 14.

But it is a place *he* can gamble, partly because his RX-7 handles like a dream, and partly because the location of the exit road gives some extra surface to 'cheat' on track-out.

This isn't necessarily the fastest line for all drivers or all types of cars - one has to know what one's preferences (and those of their car) are. Miscalculate and you could have an excursion .... or worse.

- Riff

[Eagle1]

http://www.samcosport.com/us/about.asp

Here is a link to the hoses that we will be using on the motor and cooling system.

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/wheelsoncar_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]The Nittos on the Enkeis on the coupe - side view of future missile. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/cool.gif </font>

Jason:
I checked with Michael down at VRT and they just powder coated the front plate as a freebie because it would look neat.

We are powder coating the Enkei wheels black, from the stock silver in those sizes as well.

The Samco hoses will be their trademark blue.

In addition, Michael took a few more pictures of the roll bar set up in my car to fill out the request of one of our readers here, and I sent them along to Riff to cull through, and select and post the ones he thinks would be beneficial to understanding what we did there previously.

I have given VRT permission to use my custom designs/approaches to the instrumentation mounts and roll bar, and any variation thereto which they choose to make, for their cars. Not that there is anything so proprietary about that, but they were gentlemen enough to ask for permission anyway, so of course I gave it to them. So if you do decide to go that route, they can do those things for you too. In fact they can probably improve further on them.

Michael will be taking additional pictures as they start to hang stuff back on the motor and we will get those up for you to review as we go along.

Most of the parts are there, we are waiting on Exedy to get us the clutch and flywheel right now, and Jason is all over that, like he is on everything that helps my car for the past two years.

[helldorado]

http://www.fluidampr.com/howitworks.htm

Here is a link to the fluidamper site that describes the application and its reduction of torsional vibration on the crankshaft.



I didn't see an application for our engines listed. Do they have a new one that isn't on their site or are you getting something custom?? I'd be interested in this for myself, even being NA because I installed the UR pulley too.

Riff, I feel the same way about the transmission shifts. As I'm looking into a rebuild of the 5AT, one of my big concerns is making sure a strengthened transmission doesn't result in one that slams the gears. Apparently some of the guys who have rebuilt transmissions through SGP and the like, have shifts that are kind of Emeril. BAM! BAM! BAM!

Even though a lot of people would argue the 5AT is a disadvantage, I think having a strengthened one that shifts as smooth as stock would be more advantageous as you can focus more on your attack of the road and not the shifts.

[Eagle1]

There is one for the VQ35DE engine. Here is the part:
http://www.fluidampr.com/sport_compact.htm

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/Nitto_275_915_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]The Nitto NT-01 in the 275/30/18 size - still a lot of meat, especially for a front tire. Maybe it's time for a power steering cooler too Eagle1?</font>

Here is the discussion on the site about torsion vibrations and twist/rebound:

http://www.fluidampr.com/problem.htm

Please note there is not an underdrive pulley feature for our motor, only the harmonic balancer/damper.

[helldorado]

Ahhh.... thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I had misunderstood the concept of the setup. I thought it was an add-on for a pulley to restore the dampening.

I think I will stick with what I have for the time being. Most likely, if I have to replace the crankshaft, it'll be because I'm building the engine and putting in a forged piece. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

However, I do think this looks to be a great option for an engine and I'll definitely keep it on my radar.

[Riffster]

Riff, I feel the same way about the transmission shifts. As I'm looking into a rebuild of the 5AT, one of my big concerns is making sure a strengthened transmission doesn't result in one that slams the gears. Apparently some of the guys who have rebuilt transmissions through SGP and the like, have shifts that are kind of Emeril. BAM! BAM! BAM!



Well, I haven't heard that - do you have some links?


Even though a lot of people would argue the 5AT is a disadvantage, I think having a strengthened one that shifts as smooth as stock would be more advantageous as you can focus more on your attack of the road and not the shifts.



If you can get a strengthened quick shifting manumatic then you can have the best of both worlds. I remember talking to an STi driver whom I run with at RA who said to me (jokingly) 'You know, you're cheating out there!' Meaning that because of the automatic I didn't have to worry about shifting as well as braking points, line, throttle management as well as watching out for other cars, flags, etc.,

And that is true - the flip side is the lag inherent in the manumatic or especially full auto that can penalize you especially coming out of slower turns as you try to keep revs in the proper range to maintain exit speed and prepare for turn entry. At Road America this shows up the strongest at Turns Seven, Eight and Twelve - some people say it seems the worst at Twelve, but personally I feel it more on Seven and Eight. Twelve *sounds* bad (I think this is due to the echo coming off the Billy Mitchell Bridge), but I really feel car maintaining a little bit better rhythm and revs through there as compared to seven and eight. Turn Seven is a no brakes turn where it is very difficult with an auto (manumatic or full) to keep the revs up where they should be - some time is lost here to a stick. Also coming out of Eight and going into The Carousel there is 'hunting' going on as I try to use the throttle to engage appropriate revs without unbalancing the car heading into the Carousel (which would be bad of course!)

But I do acknowledge there is the advantage of not having to shift (on full anyway) while keeping track of all the other things. But you do pay a price for that with the 'duller' shifting of auto/manumatic that leads to losing revs and time coming out of turns.

- Riff

[KevinM5]

Wow,

You have turned your very fast G35 into a screamingly fast G35. If you don't already have a HANS get one. You are driving a car much faster than most racecars and all of the forces are now exponentially greater. Plus, you have harnesses and a rollbar so why not.

Good luck and hope to see you at the track soon. I am not making the Laguna Trackmasters event as may be starting a new job and weekdays won't work for a while.

Would be far more interesting to compare your prior laptimes at Buttonwillow or Sears than at Laguna where horsepower rules.

[Riffster]

First of all I think the suggestion by Kevin to consider a HANS device is a heckuva thought - this 'new' coupe is capable of imparting incredible forces to that within it as well as what lies under it! I was just reading an issue of Grassroots Motorsports about how more and more non-racers are adopting the HANS. It's not just for the 'elite' anymore.

It's something I am thinking about myself, even at my considerably more pedestrian level now that I will have a harness bar, harnesses and roll hoop.


Would be far more interesting to compare your prior laptimes at Buttonwillow or Sears than at Laguna where horsepower rules.



Why would that be Kevin? I'm sure you know the tracks out there well, but wouldn't a Buttonwillow time improvement be as much due to driver as to car? Laguna is like RA - where your car's power increase will be most noticed.

I guess it all comes down to where improvement is needed most - not to make fun of Eagle1's driving ability - I am sure it is excellent - but something tells me that what I would like to see is how much time is dropped at LS.

- Riff

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Misc/315Corsa_Vs_Nitto_1_M.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Both of these are 315's - no, we're not kidding. On the left is the Pirelli P Zero Corsa - 315/30/18 and the right is the Nitto NT-01 315/30/18. Hmmm .... I'm confused .... but I'm also strangely excited! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/crazy.gif That's a lot of gorgeous tire meat!</font>

Riff, I think that is exactly Kevin's point. The laptimes at a RA or LS or Willow Springs should come down materially when you put the same driver behind the wheel but shove an extra 200 hp and lbft of torque between his legs. A good question is going to be how much good does it do you at a venue like Buttonwillow with 23 turns. Now if you go to CalSpeedway, with 21 turns, it still will make a difference because you have three very mean high speed stretches. (Actually, depending on the configuration that you run, Buttonwillow has three or four pretty good screamers....But let's face it....RA is king for speed and power set ups! The Moraine Sweep, the Kink to the Kettle Bottoms, the front straight....mercy!)

the challenge is to find whether and to what extent one may meaningfully make use of the additional power based on the handling limits of the car, and the skill limits of the driver. (this may not be fair when the prowess of this driver is akin to the gymnastic flair of a three legged hamster...but with really skilled pilots, it does matter).

Good news today. The wheel and tire set up.....WORKS! The Enkei 18 inch wheels (NT03 +M) arrived from Texas today and we immediately got them mounted. The 9.5 rim on the front wearing a 275/35 Nitto NT-01 DOT-R tires with a 3mm spacer (I am running 3.5 degrees negative camber with the front adjustable upper control arms, so it will rub otherwise) fit perfectly. the rear 10.5" rim wearing a 315/30 tire fit to within a whisker, but it fits. We are going to gently roll the rear fender edges to provide a skosh more room, but boys and girls it by golly fits and it looks great. That is big feet out back to hold the power, and nobody was betting that it would fit in there. Scott is taking some pictures and as soon as he emails them to me, I will get the to Riff and we will get some up to take a look at.

Meanwhile the hood and front bumper are out getting resprayed, the other parts have all arrived and we are waiting on the clutch, the part we really need badly now to get the motor in.

It appears that we will not have trouble with the fitment of the Amsoil preoiler and bypass filter kit, so that is good news.

The debate now, (now that I already have purchased and taken delivery of the fluidamper) is that the balance of the polished crank is so good that we should not do the harmonic balancer, but instead go to a UR pulley. Arghhh.I understand the benefits of the fluidamper, but there are two views on this that are very compelling, so thoughts on this both ways are welcomed.

[Riffster]

Riff, I think that is exactly Kevin's point. The laptimes at a RA or LS or Willow Springs should come down materially when you put the same driver behind the wheel but shove an extra 200 hp and lbft of torque between his legs. A good question is going to be how much good does it do you at a venue like Buttonwillow with 23 turns. Now if you go to CalSpeedway, with 21 turns, it still will make a difference because you have three very mean high speed stretches. (Actually, depending on the configuration that you run, Buttonwillow has three or four pretty good screamers....But let's face it....RA is king for speed and power set ups! The Moraine Sweep, the Kink to the Kettle Bottoms, the front straight....mercy!)



Okay, understood .... sometimes me and logic have distant relations. Now you've done it Eagle1 - you know you want to run your monster coupe at RA! It would simply r-u-l-e.


the challenge is to find whether and to what extent one may meaningfully make use of the additional power based on the handling limits of the car, and the skill limits of the driver. (this may not be fair when the prowess of this driver is akin to the gymnastic flair of a three legged hamster...but with really skilled pilots, it does matter).



Three-legged hamsters might be able to do things that the fully-equipped models cannot do.


Good news today. The wheel and tire set up.....WORKS! The Enkei 18 inch wheels (NT03 +M) arrived from Texas today and we immediately got them mounted. The 9.5 rim on the front wearing a 275/35 Nitto NT-01 DOT-R tires with a 3mm spacer (I am running 3.5 degrees negative camber with the front adjustable upper control arms, so it will rub otherwise) fit perfectly. the rear 10.5" rim wearing a 315/30 tire fit to within a whisker, but it fits. We are going to gently roll the rear fender edges to provide a skosh more room, but boys and girls it by golly fits and it looks great. That is big feet out back to hold the power, and nobody was betting that it would fit in there. Scott is taking some pictures and as soon as he emails them to me, I will get the to Riff and we will get some up to take a look at.



Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy .... I wanna see that setup! 315's on a coupe! There's a wickedly fast (not compared to you though) modded 928 from the Porsche Club of Chicago that runs at RA that has 335's in the rear. He had some major fender rolling done to get those puppies in.

It will interesting to see how much room you'll have even after the rolling - I've ridden around RA in a race-prepped Cobra with rubbing tires and not enjoyed it very much. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tongue.gif


The debate now, (now that I already have purchased and taken delivery of the fluidamper) is that the balance of the polished crank is so good that we should not do the harmonic balancer, but instead go to a UR pulley. Arghhh.I understand the benefits of the fluidamper, but there are two views on this that are very compelling, so thoughts on this both ways are welcomed.



Can something be too balanced? http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/confused.gif If you are laying down that much power, maybe the harmonic balancer isn't overkill? Hmmm .... better minds than me need to chew on this one I'm afraid.

- Riff

[ChicagoX]

I would view the damper as an additional insurance policy; it works so well at quelling both first and second order vibrations that it is NHRA-mandated on the faster cars.

The additional reduced bearing wear and valvetrain stability at max rpm assists with longevity, too.

Ed, if you don't end up installing it, PM me. I will take it off your hands. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/tires_unmounted_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Some sweet fat ummounted tires - Nitto NT-01 race rubber, class of 315! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif As the young doods say 'sick meat!' </font>

Thanks ChicagoX. I will be noodling with these gents about it. The conservative in me is balancing against the aggressive. On the one hand what we are trying to do is produce some fairly prodigious power. USEABLE power. IF 475 will do it, we don't need 525hp. And of course what we are really after is rear wheel torque in the gears and speeds that are between 60mph and 130mph. Linear, smooth application without lag or jerk. On the other hand reliability and longevity are factors. I don't want to rebuild the motor every year. Quality grinds and tolerances, cooling, filtration and balancing are all part of the package too, and so the harmonic balancer is a very appealing animal. But so is the UD pulley. IF both were combined on this unit....oh so perfect. But while that is available on some other vehicles, it is not available for our VQ35DE motor. So a choice has to be made. The techs are telling me that for this rebuilt motor, it just is not necessary because it is so much more refined and balanced. They are not telling me NOT to do it...they are happy to slap it on for me. They are just saying that the benefits of the UD pulley outweigh in their judgment the benefits of an harmonic balancer FOR THIS ENGINE. I am trying to do some more self education on this. Of course, I am not running drag race pressures and engine speeds that make a very convincing case for a fluidamper as a "must have" item (just like with the amsoil bypass I am not running a $300,000 Terex engine either...but I still put that sucker into the equation!).

Scott took a bunch of pics of the wheel install, and they are supposed to come to me today. I have to go to Chicago in a few hours on business for the rest of the week, possibly through Saturday, so my replies and activity on the board may drop off until Sunday or Monday...I will do my best to keep up with the contributions to the thread.
Cheers,
Ed

[D_Nyholm]

I haven't been this excited on Freshalloy since when I registered. This is a great build and a great person to be describing it to us. Thanks for everything Eagle1!!

[Riffster]

Just wait until you see the pics I am going to post - man, I am just drooling looking at these hefty puppies.

Erm .... tires. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/blush.gif http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Lots more tire pics coming tonight and in the next few days but the first of many tire-holics centerfold pics is now up! Oooo ... man, this is porno (or should I say 'pron') for car guys! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

I have to get back to a thing I do during the day called 'work' - maybe you've heard of it. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

- Riff

[alex123]

these two posts need to be pinned! Mods?

[Riffster]

these two posts need to be pinned! Mods?



We were going to present them possibly as articles if everything works out. But you bring up a good point - I will see if I can get together with Fred (the other day-to-day admin) and the forum mods like Al503 and Tower, etc., and see if they are okay with 'pinning' it.

Btw, I am going to post another pic in the thread - more to come later this evening and tomorrow. These tires are something else! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Fun stuff.

More pics added throughout the thread - and more to come!

- Riff

[helldorado]

Good news today. The wheel and tire set up.....WORKS! The Enkei 18 inch wheels (NT03 +M) arrived from Texas today and we immediately got them mounted. The 9.5 rim on the front wearing a 275/35 Nitto NT-01 DOT-R tires with a 3mm spacer (I am running 3.5 degrees negative camber with the front adjustable upper control arms, so it will rub otherwise) fit perfectly. the rear 10.5" rim wearing a 315/30 tire fit to within a whisker, but it fits. We are going to gently roll the rear fender edges to provide a skosh more room, but boys and girls it by golly fits and it looks great. That is big feet out back to hold the power, and nobody was betting that it would fit in there. Scott is taking some pictures and as soon as he emails them to me, I will get the to Riff and we will get some up to take a look at.



So now I gotta know ALL the details. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Which offsets are you running with the Enkei's? What are the details of your full suspension? I know you have the Tein Flex with EDFC, but what springs are you running with it? Also what are you using for camber adjustment and do you have rear adjustment / toe arms too, and if so are you running a negative camber on those?

Curious as to what the full extent of your setup is, great reference for other people who want to fit those 275's and 315's in there.

[Riffster]

Eagle1 is in transit to Chicago now Helldorado - but I can answer at least one of your questions. The others may have to wait.

Offsets - the NTM03+M are +27 in the front and +30 in the rear.

As to springs and camber adjustments - I can't help you there. I know that Eagle1 first lowered his coupe about an inch. I don't know if he is lwoering it further or not.

Hopefully he'll be able to get to these posts in a couple of days.

Until then I have some copy and pics from him and I will post those tonight (one or two more pics) and tomorrow (some more observations from Eagle1 about the install, etc.,)

- Riff

[helldorado]

Thanks for the info Riff, I had a feeling that was the offsets, but wanted to be sure. Never know when you'll get a shocker! No worries on the rest, whenever Eagle1 gets back and has time to post up. Its all good.

[Riffster]

Thanks for the info Riff, I had a feeling that was the offsets, but wanted to be sure. Never know when you'll get a shocker! No worries on the rest, whenever Eagle1 gets back and has time to post up. Its all good.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/Nitto_315_1015_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Lots of rubber needs air to keep it rolling quickly.</font>

Ask and ye shall receive (the following quote is direct from the keyboard of Eagle1.)


The Nitto seems to put down a wider tread profile than either the
Pirelli or the Hoosier, or the very expensive Michelin pilot sport cup, all
of which they rolled out and compared side by side in reported 315 and
275 widths. Look at the pics and judge yourself, but the apparent
contact patch width is larger for the Nitto even to the unassisted eye. We
will have to take it to the track, but with 30 more mm up front, and 40
more mm behind, my expectation is that I will gain much better rear
traction on throttle while in the corner exit phase, and that braking will
also be enhanced. Whether there will be meaningful cornering
enhancements is very hard to speculate, and I think we keep that in reserve for
now and just drive it and report. We know, but often in our enthusiasm
refuse to acknowlege, that wider is better. But it isn't always
better. It really "depends" on so many factors. If it does add
handling/cornering capability, and with a heavy car we trend to think it will, oh
my goodness gracious the result will be intense. The step up from 245
to 275 in back and 225 to 245 in front was very noticeable before.




More information later!

- Riff

[helldorado]

Riff, maybe you or the other guys that run standalone track wheels/tires answer this as it crossed my mind, but when you run smaller diameter tires at the track, does it make the VDC systems go haywire, even if you turn it off? Noticing the 275/35 fronts have a overall diam of 25.6 and the 315/30 rear is 25.4. Thats close enough to be even F/R, but considering the coupe has a staggered height, does it have an effect? I'd expect it to make the speedometer read faster than true, but I wonder what effect that variance has on other systems that take signals from the wheel speed sensors.

Curious if its better to run fronts and rears that are basically the same size? Or to try and keep a proportional difference that is closer to the % variance of stock?

[Riffster]

I have run 235/45/17 front and 245/45/17 rear (max-performance) and 245/40/17 and 275/40/17 (race rubber.)

The 275/40/17 is the wildest mismatch, yet I do not find I trip the SLIP indicator that much on the track. It does trip of course, but I don't find it causing too many problems. And VDC still helps out at the Kink when I starting pushing too much (brakes the left front independently and keeps me off the wall.)

I wouldn't use 275/40/17 on everyday rubber since it means a 4% speedo difference, but I can honestly say that I haven't noticed any change in VDC behavior - it still kicks in at about the rate that should be expected (it doesn't seem to be thrown off by the decreased diameter of the 275/40/17 when compared to the stock 17" rear wheel of 225/55/17.)

225/55/17 diameter = 26.7
275/40/17 diameter = 25.7

So - a FULL INCH difference - and still VDC seems to be working fine.

- Riff

P.S. Pic added of a 275 Nitto front tire - see above.

[KevinM5]

One recommendation: Get a HANS device if you don't already have one. That thing is a "racecar" now and the speeds warrant it. For less than the cost of one set of tires you are adding likely the most important safety device. I would have one if I had a rollbar and harnesses in my car.

[alex123]

Riff, maybe you or the other guys that run standalone track wheels/tires answer this as it crossed my mind, but when you run smaller diameter tires at the track, does it make the VDC systems go haywire, even if you turn it off? Noticing the 275/35 fronts have a overall diam of 25.6 and the 315/30 rear is 25.4. Thats close enough to be even F/R, but considering the coupe has a staggered height, does it have an effect? I'd expect it to make the speedometer read faster than true, but I wonder what effect that variance has on other systems that take signals from the wheel speed sensors.

Curious if its better to run fronts and rears that are basically the same size? Or to try and keep a proportional difference that is closer to the % variance of stock?



i run Toyo RA-1 235/45ZR17 F and 275/40ZR17 R and never had any VDC issues. though, unless it is raining cats and dogs i turn VDC off midway thru the first session.

[D_Nyholm]

Riff, maybe you or the other guys that run standalone track wheels/tires answer this as it crossed my mind, but when you run smaller diameter tires at the track, does it make the VDC systems go haywire, even if you turn it off? Noticing the 275/35 fronts have a overall diam of 25.6 and the 315/30 rear is 25.4. Thats close enough to be even F/R, but considering the coupe has a staggered height, does it have an effect? I'd expect it to make the speedometer read faster than true, but I wonder what effect that variance has on other systems that take signals from the wheel speed sensors.

Curious if its better to run fronts and rears that are basically the same size? Or to try and keep a proportional difference that is closer to the % variance of stock?



My track wheels and tires are 275-40-17 for the front and the rear. Granted, i've only autocrossed them, but I do drive to and from the autocross with them on (sometimes hitting some pretty high speeds and taking turns a lot quicker than normal). The only time i've noticed anything is when I first pull out of the driveway. It's only happened twice, but i'll accelerate and the slip light will come on and i'll have no throttle control. It'll stop after about 10 feet when the car is finally going straight down the road. Other than that, they haven't caused a single problem...

[WA2GOOD]

Riffster, I am glad to see the pics I have taken and sent to Eagle 1 are a hit. I will be sending him some more of his car from the body shop, etc. Those wheel/ tire combo's are going to be a great addition, after they come back from the powder coater (of coarse).


Since Mr. Reeser (Eagle 1) has asked me to drive his car and possibly do a analysis on his car set up "as a complete package", I am looking forward to seeing and feeling all of the added performance we have added to it.

Should be interesting........... http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/wink.gif

ps. As a customer, and from a personal stand point, Mr. Reeser (Eagle 1) has been a real stand up person, a pleasure to work with, and one of my favorite clients. It is a real privilege to be doing the "VRT" transformation on such a great guys car.

[Eagle1]

Riffster, I am glad to see the pics I have taken and sent to Eagle 1 are a hit. I will be sending him some more of his car from the body shop, etc. Those wheel/ tire combo's are going to be a great addition, after they come back from the powder coater (of coarse).


Since Mr. Reeser (Eagle 1) has asked me to drive his car and possibly do a analysis on his car set up "as a complete package", I am looking forward to seeing and feeling all of the added performance we have added to it.

Should be interesting........... http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/wink.gif

ps. As a customer, and from a personal stand point, Mr. Reeser (Eagle 1) has been a real stand up person, a pleasure to work with, and one of my favorite clients. It is a real privilege to be doing the "VRT" transformation on such a great guys car.




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/all_together_2_M.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Everything old is new again - the 'new' built engine is put together and awaits installation into The Beast of all coupes!</font>

Blush...I hope the fact that I still owe you guys some money did not influence your objectivity with the above!

The good experience is mutual (so far...when I blow it up leaving the shop I reserve right to squeal).

Seriously, however, the back and forth as we talk about the parts and objectives etc. has been very open, clear, and professional, and I appreciate that greatly. As well as your flexibility in showing what you are doing right out here in the open with all the enthusiasts, so that the learning and sharing of knowledge, in all directions, is enhanced so powerfully. I know of no other forum experience that has provided so much, so clearly as this one has for the G35 undergoing a performance upgrade of this type.

VRT has just sent to me, and I have forwarded to Riff, a very large portfolio of pictures of the engine build. Pistons, bearings, rods, top-bottom-front-back, etc. It is a lot of good stuff, and I hope you all enjoy it, compliments of VRT.

[JasonPerformance]

any specific reason you are using the rubber valve stem rather then the metal ones enkei usually ships with the wheels?

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/cams_M.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Jim Wolf Technology cams nestling inside their home - the Nissan VQ35DE. VRT staff standing by!</font>

that is how they shipped it, and no, we need to replace them and are doing so.

[D_Nyholm]

Eagle1,

I know it is too late now, but did you talk about Knife Edging the crank?? Just looking at it is beautiful and I assume (bad word though) that the performance gains as far as quick revs, less oil sloching around, and all around balance would be very beneficial.

My cousin had it done to his porsche and the crank just looked so beautiful. No idea of the cost, but I would think that the benefits would outweigh that...

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/install_crank_M.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Crank installed in the VQ35DE.</font>

Dennis:
We did not talk about knife edging it. Might be a day late on that now. Let me check into what in fact was done there, if anything.

[WA2GOOD]

Dennis:
We did not talk about knife edging it. Might be a day late on that now. Let me check into what in fact was done there, if anything.




The crank has been high speed balanced to very close tolerances and micro polished, then it was balanced again as a rotating assembly with all the (blueprinted) rods and pistons attached.

With the designs of some of the newer oil pans (and in particular the after market one on Eagle 1's car), IMO, there is little to no benefit in knife edging this crank as there is far less depth in the oil pan compared to stock etc.

[Riffster]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/all_rod_pistons_M.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Pauter Rods .... check .... CP Pistons .... check .... this time it's delight that is in the details and these are some mighty fine details!</font>


The first of MANY engine build pics are up now in the thread.

I will try to get some more up before I eat dinner and get a look at my own coupe at the tuner's with modifications (just about done - it seems like forever! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/cool.gif ) Maybe I'll remember to take some pics too. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

- Riff

['97 S14 SE Turbo]

contact these guys www.crank-scrapers.com (http://www.crank-scrapers.com) to get a crank scraper made to help shed excessive oil from the rotating group.

Pretty cheap too.

[Riffster]

The crank has been high speed balanced to very close tolerances and micro polished, then it was balanced again as a rotating assembly with all the (blueprinted) rods and pistons attached.

With the designs of some of the newer oil pans (and in particular the after market one on Eagle 1's car), IMO, there is little to no benefit in knife edging this crank as there is far less depth in the oil pan compared to stock etc.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/crank_main_bearing_M.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Main crank bearing install</font>

Crank pic above and in Eagle1's prior post.

Also thought I'd let everyone know that Eagle1 has decided to go with a Fluidampr instead of an underdrive pulley.

I'm sure once Eagle1 has returned from his travels that he will update us on this and many other issues .... meanwhile .... PICS! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/piston_install_M.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]One of the CP Pistons being installed.</font>

- Riff

[Wheresmyblower]

Dang it! I need to see pics of the 275/315's sitting under the coupe! How do I set up an email alert to my Treo for when those get posted ?! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Eagle1]

Dang it! I need to see pics of the 275/315's sitting under the coupe! How do I set up an email alert to my Treo for when those get posted ?! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/frontwheel_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]275mm of Nitto race-compound for the front wheels and ....</font>

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/rearwheel_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img].... 315mm of Nitto race-compound for the rear wheels!</font>


The wheels are out being powder coated, so it will be a couple more days into the work week and then we should have them back. But we are also waiting on the clutch to be delivered, and until we get that she is staying on the lift, so no tires for just now.

[WA2GOOD]

Dang it! I need to see pics of the 275/315's sitting under the coupe! How do I set up an email alert to my Treo for when those get posted ?! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif



On the previous page there is a pic I took of the wheels (pre-mounted for fittment) under Eagle 1's coupe.

[G_Man8895]

Great stuff! Please keep the pictures and write-ups coming!



With the designs of some of the newer oil pans (and in particular the after market one on Eagle 1's car), IMO, there is little to no benefit in knife edging this crank as there is far less depth in the oil pan compared to stock etc.



This is interesting. Eagle1 - how far up the dipstick do you fill the oil? I assume you don't fill it to the stock "full" level. I guess the ARC oil pan leaves the oil pickup tube at the stock depth. I think the APC oil pan kit comes with some sort of an adapter to extend the oil pickup tube further down. Just curious.

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/SCtoTT/close_motor__M_edited.jpg
[/i]<font color="blue[/img]VQ motor partially closed with view of pistons</font>[/i]

The pickup or scavenge tube is extended to the bottom of the pan. You still fill it to the same level on the dipstick, the pan is just deeper and holds more is all.
So you wind up putting in about 6.75 quarts with the ARC instead of the stock 5 quarts, all other things being equal.

We are going to change that "equal" part even more. With the Nismo oil cooler there will be additional oil required.

With the Amsoil pre-oiler and bypass filter, more oil still. I really could not say how much more oil it will turn out to be exactly, but I am thinking that it will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-11 quarts. This is good.

[G_Man8895]

Thanks for the info. 10-11 qts. is a good amount of insurance for your motor. It'll be interesting to see how long it'll take to change the oil.

[paemt]

My apologies if this has been discussed already. Being an open deck motor, are you doing anything to strengthen it? Is it necessary to do so?

Chad

[Riffster]

My apologies if this has been discussed already. Being an open deck motor, are you doing anything to strengthen it? Is it necessary to do so?

Chad



I believe a redeck has been done as well as boring and honing the block. Eagle1 should confirm this, but that was stated in the first post of Chapter 1 Chad - which you can access at the top of the forum amongst the sticky threads.

- Riff

[WA2GOOD]

My apologies if this has been discussed already. Being an open deck motor, are you doing anything to strengthen it? Is it necessary to do so?

Chad





I believe a redeck has been done as well as boring and honing the block. Eagle1 should confirm this, but that was stated in the first post of Chapter 1 Chad - which you can access at the top of the forum amongst the sticky threads.

- Riff




Yes, here is a genaric run down of what we do in our VQ motor builds............


VQ 35DE VRT Motor Build to handle a 500+ WHP/550+ lbs torque at less than one bar

[i]Machine Shop

Block oil passages cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Crank high speed balanced &amp; micro polished
Crank journals polished
Heads oil passages cleaned
Heads Port and Polished
New Nismo Main and Rod bearings
Pauter Rods blueprinted &amp; catalogued
Nismo Rod Bolts
CP/Aries Pistons 8.6 CR blueprinted &amp; catalogued
Ceramic coating on Piston skirts and tops
Nismo Main Studs
Nismo Head Studs
Complete rotating assembly re-balanced
JWT Valve Springs
Ported exhaust and intake runners
JWT S2 Racing Cams
JWT Extended Oil Pan/one additional quarts of oil
New Nissan Oil Pump / New Nissan Cam seals

['97 S14 SE Turbo]

No interest in a crank scraper to remove excessive oil? http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[Riffster]

My guess is that the high-performance oil pan along with the pre-oiler assembly should take care of most of the needs of appropriate oiling for a monster system like this one '97 S14 SE Turbo. But you do bring up a good point for the specific issue of returning the oil more efficiently to the pan instead of it being thrown on the side of the pan or block.

Maybe the design of the oil pan that will be used incorporates something like what a crank scraper performs?

- Riff

['97 S14 SE Turbo]

Normal oil pans, even modified ones have nothing to do with this product. At best it will have windage trays, oil traps, etc. Still does not help remove excessive foamed up oil, or oil from the rotating bottom end.

It's part of the last 1% of this big TT monster effort. If such a big effort is being made, this small and simple part can help out plenty.

[Riffster]

Normal oil pans, even modified ones have nothing to do with this product. At best it will have windage trays, oil traps, etc. Still does not help remove excessive foamed up oil, or oil from the rotating bottom end.



First I want to say I don't think (hope?) this exchange is hijacking a very valuable thread because talking about technical issues like this makes the thread even more worthy. In fact I am pretty sure it is the very reason Eagle1 himself proposed these 'chapters' to me! So, in the interest of education (and not whom is right or wrong because I think there really isn't any disagreement here, just a bit of confusion over what are really details.)

Keeping that in mind ....

Crank scrapers *can* be incorporated into an oil pan, although they are functionally a different component. If you go to several sites, including Milodon.net, there are passages similar to this:


<font color="blue[/img]A crank scraper also will help keep your crankshaft spinning freely, according to Milodon. The scraper gets installed a few thousandths of an inch below the crankshaft. (It's either built into an oil pan, or it installs between the pan and the block.) Here's how it works: As oil returns from the top end of the engine, it drips onto the crankshaft. The crank scraper removes that oil and returns it to the pan, rather than letting it stay on the crank to get flung at the side of the pan or the block.</font>



Again, I am not saying a crank scraper is a normal part of an oil pan or whatever, that is details. All I was saying was that it was possible to incorporate the install.


It's part of the last 1% of this big TT monster effort. If such a big effort is being made, this small and simple part can help out plenty.



No disagreement there - but maybe this issue has already been addressed - that is, decisions are already made/installed on the pan/windage tray/traps? Someone else at VRT or Eagle1 himself should address this and I will shutup and listen.

- Riff

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/SCtoTT/piston_install_2_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]A VRT technician installs a CP Piston into the new(er) VQ engine.</font>

The crank scraper is an interesting concept, and at $50 or so it certainly seems to be a modification that at the very least won't hurt anything, and could provide benefits with respect to removing the windage cloud and reducing the inertial drag associated with the excess spray. Cooling benefits may exist, but with all of the others that are on the motor that are directly or indirectly associated with cooling objectives, probably less noticeably than if they were absent. Horsepower gains through reduction in inertial drag should be real. While under boost a couple of ponies is not a big deal....it is still a real deal and thus is cause to sit down, slow down and think.

We mess with the intake charge temp and flow under boost with the iso-thermal spacer, to take the process we are using anyway, improve it slightly and perhaps pick up a few hp. Similarly we jet hot coat some (not all) of the exhaust manifold to help with the turbo. More efficiency means more power with less energy, and that is good. We put the harmonic damper on to help with the torsional vibration. We improve the exhaust to facilitate easier exhalation, and evacuation of exhaust gases from the expel stroke, to achieve a cleaner and more pure intake volume for the cylinders...and thus a bigger "bang". I had not been considering this, but if they have one available quickly there is time to put it on. So I sent out an email to the company and we will chew on it some more while we wait for a reply. But will I slow down the rebuild while they diddle around for three weeks to prototype one? Nope.

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/SCtoTT/heads_cams_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]A nice and shiney 'before' shot of the VQ's head and cams (just visible at the top.)</font>

Two more ideas for this thread, or to consider for related ones, gentlemen.
1. The old engine. I have about 25,000 miles on the original, the first 2,000 or so of which are NA, and then after that break in the rest being on the ATI, stock kit with 7 psi pulley. The motor and the unit were meticulously and lovingly cared for throughout, with Mobil 1 synthetic oil and frequent oil and filter changes. (I ALWAYS changed the filter, using the M-110, every time the oil was changed, and that was about every 5,000 miles or sooner.) The ATI was similarly watched over and the special high viscosity oil maintained in the reservoir. There have been no observable problems with the unit, though the power does seem to feel a bit "down" from the heady early days of the unit. Whether that is from my becoming used to it, or the unit actually declining for some reason to produce power...I don't know. But we did do a pull on the dyno before yanking the motor, and it seemed considerably weaker than the early dynos. So I am looking into two more inquiries. The first would be, tear down of the engine and taking a look at the components to see what the condition appears to be. Just having some idea of what the wear looks like compared to an NA engine should be of interest to everyone that is running FI or is considering whether to do so.

2. The old supercharger. Almost 23,000 miles. Wonder how the bearings are doing? Wonder how the impeller blades look? I do.
So I am talking with a friend about selling him the complete assemblage salvaged from my car, at a significant discount from fmv. The catch? I want him to completely tear it down and recondition it to like "new", and in the process have a report to us on the bearings, impeller, etc. so we can get some idea of how it holds up.

Maybe we will learn some good stuff. This requires some agreement from other parties and is not in my control, so I cannot promise we can get it, but I am working on it, and to some extent underwriting the cost for the community good in education. But I think it is worth it. So in a couple of days when I get the answers back from the other parties on these two proposals, we may be starting up with some other threads here (I don't want to clutter up the TT rebuild with those interesting, but not directly related, subjects).
Have a great holiday everyone.

['97 S14 SE Turbo]

Crank scrapers *can* be incorporated into an oil pan,



That part is know, it's also known that it was not considered in this application, hence I brought up the subject. Simple as that.

[Eagle1]

Yep. And a good suggestion too!

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/SCtoTT/nomotor1_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Not the recommended way of reducing weight in your coupe - but if you have *very* high winds at your local speedway, this might be a possibility!</font>

OK, we got a laser fast reply from Kevin Johnson at Johnson Ishihara, who make the crank scrapers and windage trays that our friend is referencing. Very professional, polite and to the point.

Kevin advised that the only way he can do a tray is if somebody brings a block in to him to measure, (sounds reasonable!) and in his words here is the deal:
__________________________________________________ _________

The person allowing the measuring would get a free one of course and the
steel versions would be the standard $49.95 price that we charge for our
other scrapers. It is very difficult to know what else might be possible
(such as a windage tray) without having the other components in the
crankcase area in place.

Kind regards,

Kevin Johnson
__________________________________________________ ______

And his first reply to me at 4AM this morning California time:

Thank you for writing. I have been following the discussion on your
&gt;&gt; engine
&gt;&gt; on Freshalloy -- very nice. The only way I could make a scraper for
&gt;&gt; your
&gt;&gt; engine would be to have access to a block for measuring. If you know of
&gt;&gt; someone in the Tampa area that has one available -- even blown blocks are
&gt;&gt; usually fine for such purposes -- that would be possible. And to be well
&gt;&gt; within your three week diddle-around constraint. ;-)
&gt;&gt;
&gt;&gt; However, lacking that, I should think that your stock oil pan has been
&gt;&gt; given
&gt;&gt; a fair amount of consideration by Nissan. The VG30DETT has a very well
&gt;&gt; designed pan with many crank-scraper type devices spread liberally
&gt;&gt; throughout and I cannot imagine why Nissan would not extend this
&gt;&gt; foresight
&gt;&gt; to the VQ35.
&gt;&gt;
&gt;&gt; Kind regards,
&gt;&gt;
&gt;&gt; Kevin Johnson
__________________________________________________ ____

Of course my car is in pieces in San Diego, so driving to Tampa this weekend to do this won't work for me (!!:-)
And I am not going to slow down or modify the build at this particular time to wait for the part, though I might certainly consider adding it at a future date when the pan is going to come off anyway. However, now that the subject is raised and the rough price and availablity determined, if somebody else in the enthusiast ranks of the G or Z community and who lives in the Tampa area (C'mon...lads and ladies...we know you are out there!) wants to give them a visit and contribute to the cause as it were, we could have an aftermarket part to add to the inventory.

Cheers.

Ed

[350ZNV]

Man Scott, why is it so hard for me to get you to take pics of my car going through the process? http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/confused.gif Car looks awesome Eagle1! Now I wish I had gotten your tires lol.

[Riffster]

350ZNV - to honestly and seriously answer your question .... (hope Scott doesn't mind)

Well, maybe it has something to do with the fact that Eagle1 could assure VRT that they would have an extensive series of threads with thousands of views on a great Nissan/Infiniti enthusiasts' site? That's a lot of free advertising! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/wink.gif

There have already been over 3,200 views and around 170 posts in a series that started just before the end of the year. <font color="red[/img]And we have another several series coming up - with some VERY COOL STUFF yet to come (which I will let Eagle1 drop the bomb on! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif ) This stuff will ROCK YOUR MODDIN' SOCKS OFF! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/ooo.gif </font>

By the time this monster project is over FA will probably rack up VERY large view numbers and replies (10,000+ views? several hundred+ replies?)

And really, beyond that, the most important thing is that this series of threads will have contributed a lot to the community of G35C modders in specific and VQ35DE engine modders in general.

Hope that makes you feel a little better 350ZNV.

Oh btw, more pics have been posted in Eagle1's threads above! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

- Riff

[350ZNV]

No thats not the case...VRT knows that I will whore my car out all over the internet once I get pictures. Eagle1 has this site covered, while I post mainly over on ********************** and 350ZMotoring.com. I also have my own website at www.SinCity350Z.com. (http://www.SinCity350Z.com.) That is why VRT is first on my list of sponsors in my sig http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

[Riffster]

Well then 350ZNV - I guess the real reason is that Scott just doesn't like you!

http://www.smileys.ws/smls/laughing/00000011.gif

- Riff

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/SCtoTT/rear_cover_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]The back cover of the built VQ for Eagle1's coupe goes on.</font>

Actually, most of the motor build pics would be the same for Mike's car and for mine. The inside of the cabin would be radically different, however, as Mike has taken out the sound damping and ground stuff down to the metal in a weight reduction program. His car is ahead of mine in the upgrade process and it looks really good. With high power and low weight, he really is going to have a missle. But his modification goals are quite a bit different than mine, so best to follow his threads and site for what he is doing...and that is making a track car from a 350Z. No pretense about being a car with street civilities. I don't think there is a passenger seat, let alone a stereo, in his very focused application. So if you get a lift with him.....bring a pillow and some twine to tie yourself in! And be prepared to go very fast.

[Riffster]

Well I am sure that 350ZNV and Eagle1 (and Scott at VRT for that matter) know that I am kidding. I am sure that whatever the build stage and type, a car that had been upgraded in the manner that it seems vehicles at VRT would be are quite able to attract more than a bit of attention.

Oh, another pic has been added. http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/smile.gif

- Riff

[350ZNV]

^^^Hahaha. I have a passenger seat that I can throw in for rides lol. I don't have a radio though. Yes our cars will be two different beasts. I am excited about your G35 though. Scott tells me its the nicest all around monster that he has laid eyes upon. Aparently I should be getting my car back from VRT sometime this week, then I will take a week or so to put on the parts that I have sitting in my garage, then...the unveiling! You won't be able to go to any 350Z forum without seeing my car lol. I will start my own thread about it on here for sure. Now, back to Eagle1's amazing G35...

[al503]

I will start my own thread about it on here for sure.


Lookin' forward to it.

[Eagle1]

I will start my own thread about it on here for sure.


Lookin' forward to it.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/Willow_Springs_Omega_M.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Eagle1's coupe before the Koyo, ARC pan and CF vented hood were installed. This pic taken at Big Willow Springs (The Omega turn - the ATI Procharger was installed already in this pic.)</font>

+1 on that. I don't know what there is left to add to Mike's car except a drogue chute and an ejection seat!

Hey Mike, Speed Ventures is putting together a track day later this season for Las Vegas Motor Speedway, and I think possibly Pahrump, and Trackmasters-Racing will be doing Reno-Fernley....are you going to be going to those HPDE track events? If so I will really make an effort to get out there so I can see your car in action. Mount a video cam so we can see some footage too!
Cheers,
Ed

[Riffster]

Here's a shot Eagle1 sent me that shows why the Koyo Radiator is a great modification for those of us who track our coupes - particularly in warmer temperatures! Look at the difference in core size - just so much more area to disperse and absorb heat!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/Other%20G35s/DSC00293_M.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Koyo radiator on the left - stock on the right. Mr. Koyo is now a permanent resident in Eagle1's monster coupe.</font>

- Riff

[350ZNV]

+1 on that. I don't know what there is left to add to Mike's car except a drogue chute and an ejection seat!

Hey Mike, Speed Ventures is putting together a track day later this season for Las Vegas Motor Speedway, and I think possibly Pahrump, and Trackmasters-Racing will be doing Reno-Fernley....are you going to be going to those HPDE track events? If so I will really make an effort to get out there so I can see your car in action. Mount a video cam so we can see some footage too!
Cheers,
Ed



Hahaha. Yeah I will be at the LVMS and the Pahrump evetns, but I don't know about Reno yet. Thats a far drive with a trailer. I thought you were going to Buttonwillow with us on Feb. 4-5? You can check out my tennative schedule on my website...www.SinCity350Z.com

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/SCtoTT/blackwheelunmounted_1_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]Still Life: Enkei NT03+M Amidst a Sea of Rubber and </font><font color="red[/img]Sprite Can??? http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/crazy.gif </font><font color="blue[/img] Now we know what VRT techs drink!</font> </font>

I would LOVE to come to Buttonwillow on Feb 4-5....but I have meetings in Phoenix that weekend that nuke that, so (sniff-sniff) I miss out on seeing your car. I was hoping we would have my car ready to rumble by then too, and maybe get to Big Willow on the 28th....but as you know this stuff always takes longer than you plan, and you must take the time to get it done right. In addition, I will probably take it in a couple of steps, maybe take the boost to only 10-11, drive it a bit there, then move it up to the 500whp target with boost around 13.5 or so....if I think it makes sense based on the feel of the car and its performance. I am after results on the torque of course, but if pushing it for 50 more lbsft is reducing its utility elsewhere on the track...I won't stress the machine to get it just to wave around and holler that we get 500hp/tq out of the beast...it will be counterproductive. So like most things, I am going to take it a notch or two below target, then move up to it observantly.

Speaking of trailers, I think it makes sense to get a good, small and light one to haul the car for the big jaunts. Any recommnedations of a particular brand, and where to get one in SoCal? I have a Ford Excursion with a tow hitch, so while it is not the biggest brute around, it should be able to handle something like this, and it would be better for assuring getting home. Driving this baby up Interstate 5 to Thunderhill or out to Vegas is less appealing. I will toodle around town in it for fun on occasion while I can...but I think a trailer makes sense now. Something that has ramps to deal with the low clearance, and maybe a set up to take four spare wheels in front with a little air shield. No enclosed unit for now, that can be later.

[Riffster]

Speaking of trailers, I think it makes sense to get a good, small and light one to haul the car for the big jaunts. Any recommnedations of a particular brand, and where to get one in SoCal? I have a Ford Excursion with a tow hitch, so while it is not the biggest brute around, it should be able to handle something like this, and it would be better for assuring getting home. Driving this baby up Interstate 5 to Thunderhill or out to Vegas is less appealing. I will toodle around town in it for fun on occasion while I can...but I think a trailer makes sense now. Something that has ramps to deal with the low clearance, and maybe a set up to take four spare wheels in front with a little air shield. No enclosed unit for now, that can be later.



Here's a good primer on needs for trailering from Grassroots Motorsports:

Trailering Your Sports Car (http://www.grmotorsports.com/news/032005/getting-your-race-car-to-the-track-safely.php)

I do not have any recommendation for a particular trailer manufacturer - but here is one that has a heavy presence in California (lots of dealers) and it appears has an open model with the robustness and features needed to haul a car as heavy (and as precious!) as your modified G35C Eagle1:

'Deluxe' Open Trailer (http://www.carsontrailer.com/subs/trailers/car_haulers/deluxe_car_hauler/deluxe_car_hauler.html)

Read the Grassroots article and it helps clue you in on issues like 'breakaway kits' and the like.

- Riff

[350ZNV]

Awww man...Buttonwillow will be the maiden voyage for my Z too. Oh well. Anyways, I am in the market for a new trailer as well. Mine is really heavy and I have to use a configuration of 2x4s to get the Z up without bottoming out. If you find a good one let me know. BTW, I tow my trailer with the Z and sometimes even my Chevelle with an F-150 that only has the 5.4L V-8 so the Excursion should be more than enough.

[paemt]

Awww man...Buttonwillow will be the maiden voyage for my Z too. Oh well. Anyways, I am in the market for a new trailer as well. Mine is really heavy and I have to use a configuration of 2x4s to get the Z up without bottoming out. If you find a good one let me know. BTW, I tow my trailer with the Z and sometimes even my Chevelle with an F-150 that only has the 5.4L V-8 so the Excursion should be more than enough.



There is a lot more to it than engine size.

[350ZNV]

There is a lot more to it than engine size.



Well aware of that. Hense the turbo diesel inline 6cyl stump pullers. Since Eagle1 has a Ford I am assuming that he knows the basic stats of the 5.4L V-8, which arent that much.

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/SCtoTT/MB_ERwheels_2_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]The Enkei lightweight NT03+M wheels back from being powder painted black compared with Eagle1's prior track wheels.</font>

Indeed gentlemen, the basic Ford Excursion uses the same 5.4L V-8. It has a tow hitch with 5,000 lb rating. That may need to be upgraded. I will undoubtedly be well served to get a tranny cooler. Thanks to Riff for the above link, and I will give them a call.

An interesting thing is happening, not just in this process of conversion modification to TT, but over the past two years. Probably like most of us, my "feelings" towards that inanimate collection of metal, glass, plastic and rubber was rather personal. Although I would stop short of saying that I "loved" my car, there was (and to some extent there still remains) a genuine enthusiasm for it approching emotional attachment. The same was true of my bicycle, my motorcyle, and my first car. Something about the freedom they all gave, the joy of movement and speed too. But truly, I "liked" my car. With the additions of mods, at first they also added to the "affection" for the vehicle. There was a sense of pride and energy. It was an improvement in our relationship...or so I thought. Then something began to happen, to change. As the education about cars and their parts, and driving came crashing into me, like having a hose turned on and shoved into my throat, the fungibility of parts and changes, repairs and replacements became more matter of fact. For safety and self preservation it became necessary to thoroughly investigate limits and performance threshholds, and then with racing school classes to get comfortable to push the limits of the machinery, with full acceptance of the consequences of bending or breaking parts. A blemish that previously would have caused me to swoon is not even cause for notice any longer. It is not about the car itself any longer, but the experience it is capable of bringing, of what the car can "do" under my command that is the thrill. If the front is caked with embedded bug bodies from roaring through the air at 150mph.....I don't care anymore. Oh, sure I will sit down with solvents and cleaners and soft rags and water and soap and patiently blow 90 minutes on a Saturday slowly working it all out....but no longer with the concern as before. Just a matter of fact thing to do.
If a part is worn on an accelerated basis, some cause for concern previously......just a cold calculation of cost to replace and determination of proper and efficient timing as to when to replace it. There is almost a distancing of emotion now, as taking the car to and living with it at the limits of adhesion and mechanical capability become something that not only I can do, but I expect to do. Do you remember how you used to cringe taking the car up to 6500rpms? Now I live above 5500 rpm. Or standing hard on the breaks going to a turn? Now unless it dances on the edge of threshold all the way while downshifting and trailing brake into a turn....I am disappointing myself, and I feel the car too in not letting it show its prowess so ardently sought through the modification process. This is what it is "supposed" to do....so DO IT. That means the reality of breaking it, bending it, hurting it is oh so very real. And there is change in the relationship between boy and his machine. I respect it, I like it, and I care for it...but emotionally I am much more detached from it than when it was new and unaltered. I am now using it for another purpose and when one might think that all this work and money and effort should add to the attachment, nothing could in fact be farther from the truth. Truly there has been a transition in my feelings for this car, all cars. A loss of simple innocence in the relation of man to machine that I used to enjoy. There is no going back now. But the process is not about machine any longer. It is about testing the self and pushing the platform to do that into something of a Frankenstein to make that possible. The mod bug is real, and it manifests itself in some unexpected ways. Don't get me wrong, I am very excited about this car and what it will do, clinically as a collection of statistics that measure its capabilities, and emotionally as a force to provide great experiences and learning at the "next level". But it is not the same anymore. Be prepared for that if you go the route. It is a real change in feelings and it surprises me. But since you have to be focused on self preservation when you strap in and pilot a machine to ever higher levels of performance, I think that it is inevitable that you dispense more and more with the elements of affection for that steel and plastic and rubber and glass and look only to what it will DO safely, and little if anything else matters.

['97 S14 SE Turbo]

Heh, welcome to the world of motorsports nuts like myself... http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif

We are slaves to the hobby!!

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/SCtoTT/blackwheelunmounted_2_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]The Enkei NT03+M lightweight track wheel (18") waiting for nice, chubby NT-01 race rubber to go on it.</font>

Have decided to switch to a three disc carbon clutch and flywheel from ATS.

http://www.a-t-s-usa.com/ats-products/clutches-carbon.shtml

Greater clamping power and performance at a better price too. It will slow the build down a couple of days, but better to do it "right" and get the piece we want. It turns out the unit I was promised was in stock...was not in stock. And now after being on it for more than a week it surfaces they not only don't have it....they have no idea when they will have it. And none are slated for delivery at the present moment. (It smells like I was being held "open" to hold the sale as long as they could....gee, thanks so much fellas!) So, those guys lost a sale and just a small measure of future good will to boot. Fortunately, Jason at Performance Nissan was able to give me some help, and we are looking to airfreight the ATS from Japan to the builder direct. What a pain. To be expected that these things occur, but still....phooey. Ok. Too busy to get torqued over it, on to the next item.

On the boost front, wading through the choices of boost controllers that will make sense for the set up. Leaning towards the Blitz with its four programmable settings.

The wheels are now powder coated and back, and Riff will load up a couple of pictures for you when he comes up for air on his schedule. They look really good.

My friend AJ is running at Laguna Seca (ahhh, how I wish I was there) but he is going to take my SC unit and work up the tear down of the unit and get us the "autopsy" on it, so when that is pulled together, we will get another thread going to support that topic for you. I am really curious about what that is going to turn out to reveal to us.

[350ZNV]

Hey Eagle1 look what I found... http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif Are your wheels 18"? They look bigger than mine...

http://www.sincity350z.com/lmgt43.jpg

[Eagle1]

The one on the left is my wheel allright. Yes it is an 18" diameter....but it does aas you say look bigger than the Nismo. Maybe angle of the shot, but it is an 18" diameter.
BTW, I talked to my guys and you are getting set up for the rubber you wanted to put on your wheel.

[350ZNV]

The one on the left is my wheel allright. Yes it is an 18" diameter....but it does aas you say look bigger than the Nismo. Maybe angle of the shot, but it is an 18" diameter.
BTW, I talked to my guys and you are getting set up for the rubber you wanted to put on your wheel.



Yeah its probably the angle. I am PMing you about the tires... http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Riffster]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/SCtoTT/nomotor_M_edited.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]EEEEKKKK!!! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Do extensive modding on your coupe - expect to see something like this in your future! I just did with my own coupe! - Riff </font>



The wheels are now powder coated and back, and Riff will load up a couple of pictures for you when he comes up for air on his schedule. They look really good.




Done - three pics plus the above doozy of your coupe lying engineless.

- Riff

[Eagle1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/riffster/SCtoTT/ARC_OIL_PAN_M.jpg
<font color="blue[/img]The ARC oil pan - the subject of much debate - it looks pretty innocent to me! </font> http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Here is an interesting discovery...the use of a deeper high capacity oil pan, such as the ARC, creates an unexpected challenge. It does not have a place to tap the pan. If we use the oil pan spacer that comes with the kit that is pre-tapped, and then put the ARC pan back on....it is too low, jutting below the forward brace. Driving like that is out of the question....not unlike entering the boxing fray with your chin sticking out and your arms at your waist, it is a "bad idea". So off comes the ARC pan, the spacer goes on (it adds a quart of capacity anyway, and the oil cooler and amsoil units will also add to capacity) and now I will have a surplus $545 paper clip holder for my desk. The VRT gents were very polite in pointing out that by the way, it appeared to have had the cooling fins shot peened.....had I been in the marbles on an "off track excursion" at some time or other? Well, yeah, but, never at more than 90mph! (ok ok, once at more than 90mph, but honest only once.)

[Eagle1]

Time to close out this thread, it is getting too long, and conveniently, it is now time to turn to the process of putting it back together. Parts are now pretty much all delivered (except for the clutch), and we are done with the motor build. So we will now begin a chapter three, and start getting pictures of the parts coming together into the car. The jet hot coating of the manifold and turbos (inside and out) is now completed and we will get those parts back and some pictures of them for you, but on Chapter 3!

[G_Man8895]

Ok. Perhaps I can write the last post for this particular thread like Chapter 1. I looked at pictures of the ARC oil pan and read the descriptions, and it looks like it has two oil drainage outlets. I guess you're looking for more outlets for the turbo, preoiler or other sensors.

I'm looking forward to the other chapters as I'm sure others are!

[Eagle1]

That is correct GMan. A return outlet has to be drilled in from the side, we cannot have a probe, tube or other connection projecting vertically downward from the oil pan, or it is going to be sheared off. That would very much be a "bad thing" to have happen anywhere, but especially on a track for the safety of those following behind.

[Riffster]

Are you done with Chapter 2?

Here are direct links to Chapter 3!

Link #1 to Chapter 3- Converting from Supercharger to TT (show all pages)

Show all of Chapter 3! (http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&amp;Board=UBB25&amp;Number=68054900&amp;page =0&amp;view=collapsed&amp;sb=5&amp;o=&amp;fpart=all&amp;vc=1)

Link #2 to Chapter 3- Converting from Supercharger to TT (show first page)

Show first page of Chapter 3 only! (http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&amp;Board=UBB25&amp;Number=68054900&amp;page =0&amp;view=collapsed&amp;sb=5&amp;o=&amp;fpart=1&amp;vc=1)

Enjoy! http://forums.freshalloy.com/images/graemlins/lurk5.gif

- Riff