Consequences of leaks?

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I have a '97 240sx. you may know there's a nice little enclosure in the rear quarter "firewall" to install 10" subs. After making a baffle out of 3/4" mdf and dynamat'ing till the cows come home, I did that "push the cone in" test. of course, it rebounded rather quickly. I'm sure there are holes (most likely screw holes) towards the back of the enclosure, where the rear strut towers are. Unfortunately my hands can't reach there and fabricate something out of fiberglass or bondo. I'm running 2 IDQ10-4 paralleled and powered by a PPI pc1400, and I'm clearly not getting the sound I wanted. What am I losing out? I know it's suffering in the lower freqs. any suggestions how to fix it?

John
'97 s14 SE

[llaprad1]

If I can picture your car correctly, there is no way to make that area as air-tight as a sealed (or free-air for that matter) sub would need.

I would recommend abandoning the "firewall" thing and build you a box to your manufacturers recommended capacity (and port length/diameter for a ported box). Or bulid a custom box that fits behind the felt.

Air-tight sealed boxes lend more accuracy in lower tighter kick-drum type frequencies. Ported boxes are efficient with the power/dB ratio.

Free air speakers are the least quality sounding as well as the less efficient.

Louis

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I tried doing the exact same thing in my '95 240SX with 2 JL 10's. All I got was a lot of frustration and wasted money. I finally just took them out and bought a bandpass box for the trunk. If you are going to try the rear quarter idea, I don't think it will work. The subs just don't have enough air space, and you are going to spend way too much money trying to dynomat your car. Money that you can't get back. (I wasted about $200). Just stick with what you know sounds good.

Matt
1995 Black 240SX 5-Speed

[**DONOTDELETE**]

i heard that the JL 10w03 work the best for that setup if im not mistaken

[_Eric_]

Well, in a case like this, you have to treat this case as if you were putting subs in the rear deck of a sedan, free air design or "infinite baffle". And in any case like this, you need to have subwoofers which are designed to work in this type of enclosure.

Now-a-days, there aren't too many subs made for this type of enclosure since it has been shown to be of least efficiency and of the worst sound quality of all sub "box" designs. If you try to use subs not made for this enclosure type, it could destroy the subs.

Like it was mentioned earlier, your best bet is to just get a box made for them, which is to the speaker specs. It may sacrafice hatch space, but it will sound vastly superior. Good luck!

[Meeks32]

Even if you did get it air tight, the pannels would flex & make it sound crappy.