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Thread: How To Install A Sub In A G sedan Using Stock Bose System

  1. #1

    How To Install A Sub In A G sedan Using Stock Bose System

    Figured I would post up a little "How to" seeing as how the beginning of the installation, going through the firewall, is the hardest part for some when it comes to doing an amp install.
    This isn't a super detailed write up, I'm going to assume you are somewhat handy with basic tools and aren't afraid to get your hands dirty.

    Ok here we go
    Tools I used:
    Plastic pannel tool
    Screwdriver
    Knife
    wire strippers
    solder and soldering iron
    Electrical tape

    Parts needed:
    Amp kit w/ RCAs
    Line out converter (LOC)
    Break open you shiney new amp kit. I just went with the power kit because I already had RCAs:


    Take the battery cover off


    All the covers come off by popping the middle of these up then pulling them out



    Then take the cabin filter cover off


    This gromet with the mass of wires going in it, that's where you are going to feed your power wire and any other wires you may need to run in the future. You can already see the hood pin/tach/siren wires coming out for my remote start/alarm.


    Make an "X" in the rubber gromet with your knife, and feed the power wire in about 2ft.


    Open the front passenger door and remove the lower trim that runs along the door sill and then the kick panel




    Stick your head in the foor well and look up towards the gromet. There is your power wire.


    Once all your wire has been pulled, slide the passenger seat all the way forward and tilted.


    Open rear passenger door and pull up the lower trim along the door sill


    At the bottom of this panel are two clips, one per side. Pull each side straight back towards the other side of the car and the bottom should pop loose.



    Go back up front and start tucking the wire all the way to the back seat. Carpet is attached to the door sill by plactic loops that go over white clips which is what holds the plastic trim to the car.


    Once you get the wire to the back, take a look at where the bottom of the rear seat meets the carpet. You will see black plastic hoops. To get the rear seat up, pull the loop towards the front of the car and pull up on the seat. Don't try pulling the hoop up with the seat as it's attached to the car.


    With both sides loose, pull the seat towards the front of the car to give you some space to feed the wire up with your hand. The seat doesn't have to come all the way off, you just need some space for your hand. The back of the back seat(the part that reclines, I had no idea my seats did that and was so amazed ) has insulation behind it. Make sure when you feed the wire, to pull the insulation up as you pull on the upper back part of the back seat as you feed the wire up towards the trunk. If not, the wire will be between the seat and insulation and you will not be be able to see the wire or pull it.



    Now that the wire has been fed up towards the trunk, crawl in the trunk and pull back the bottom carpet, and then pull up on the back panel.


    Once that's done, you should be able to see the wire


    Now your power wire is in the trunk


    Now to install the line out converter (LOC). You have to pull down the top plastic trunk panel in order to expose the factory sub and amp. Pop out the little black buttons the same way you did the ones under the hood. There are about 6 total. Once they are all out, the panel should flop down like a door because it is attached at the back.


    After you drop the panel, you will be able to see the sub

    .....and the amp


    Unplug the brown plug attached to the sub, pull the black sheath covering the wires, you should see a black wire and a white wire


    Grab your line out converter


    Now twist the (+) together(no stripe), and then the (-) together (w/black stripe). On this particulat LOC, you don't need to use the two brown wires.


    Take the LOC, connect the (+) to the white wire, and the (-) to the black wire. Once you have made your connections, do not plug it back into the sub.


    Move over to the amp now and unplug the two plugs on the left side of the amp. You will only need to get to the black plug but it's alot easier to work if both are unplugged


    Pull the black sheath back and look for the green wire with the white stripe. That's the amp turn on wire. Take the blue wire that came with the amp kit and connect it to that wire. This is what is going to be turning your aftermarket amp on. Now plug everything back into the amp.


    Run your RCAs and amp turn on wire back and down to the bottom of the trunk.


    Now for your ground. Pull back the back panel like you did for the power wire, scrape/grind off paint until you get to bare metal, and sink two screws into the connector. Why two? If you attach such a large wire to thin metal, it is easy for it to start to rotate as the car bounces around down the road. That can shake the ground loose and cause your system to cut in and out. by sinking two screws into the terminal, you can help reduce that your ground will come loose. It's best to look for an existing bolt to use, but I didn't find one in the area where I would be mounting my amp.


    At this point, I leave you to mount the amp, and make your connections to what ever sub/amp combo you have chosen, as the hardest part is over with. I'm running a 10" Type R with a 500w Alpine amp and it sounds pretty good! There is a serious need to have sub volume control, so for now I just have all the settings on the amp turned down. Will I be replacing my HU, yes and very soon. I was just bored on thanksgiving morning and needed something to do
    "Humans are smart, people are stupid"

  2. #2
    Freshalloy Master Tech
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    125
    I can give you one small suggestion that I have seen go wrong with the way you ran the power wire. Water can get down on the power wire and travel through the rubber grommet. From there it will travel down and get into the connectors for the ECM causing a misfire or worse, shorted out ECM. Even your wires for the remote start can cause this problem. Be very aware of this mistake to run the wires this way. There are ways to run the wires through the grommet itself and then tape it back up to keep water out.

  3. #3
    Administrator mcrewsQ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio Texas
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    2,571
    Moto,
    Thanks for the write up!
    In the 02-06 F50 (Q45) the BOSE head unit is split in half. The outlets for the speakers and the 300w are located in the trunk.
    It is often confused for an 'amp' for the 'sub'. except there is no sub, just a center speaker!
    The magnet on your center speaker is probably 4 times bigger that on the center rear speaker in the Q.
    It is a unique setup that has not allowed for much modification.

    I did run a 150w powered sub amp that gives a little exrta umph.
    http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthr...ht=powered+sub
    Mark

    2002 Q45 Sport:
    255k, IMPUL body kit, Parrot MKi9100, 05 headlamps blacked out w/ AAC Halos,Catz Zeta ballast boost on HIR high beams, Infiniti rear spoiler, rear upper window spoiler, 245/50/ZR18 tires, modded BMW 5 series hid fog projectors, burtman piano finish dash kit, X-pipe, removed rear muffler.Kenwood 150w powered sub.
    1999 XJ8 Jag VP 120k miles sold
    2007 Kia Sportage V6 LX

  4. #4
    fedj18, you're absolutely right, water can run right down that power wire if it's not properly sealed. I used wire loom to combine my remote start tach wire and power wire to protect both, as well as seal the wire loom to the grommet. It's a step I proceeded to do a week or so after the write up was completed. Good catch/point.
    "Humans are smart, people are stupid"

  5. #5
    mcrewsQ, clean install! Not that Kenwood piece wasn't a big seller for them and was unfortunately discontinued rather quick. It's a shame because it fits nicely under SUV seats and with it being so close to you, not a whole lot of power is needed to fight through thick back seats!
    "Humans are smart, people are stupid"

  6. #6
    Administrator mcrewsQ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio Texas
    Posts
    2,571
    thanks for the kind words!
    I can see how it might have seemed 'underpowered' but it adds just enough for this 50yr old!
    Mark

    2002 Q45 Sport:
    255k, IMPUL body kit, Parrot MKi9100, 05 headlamps blacked out w/ AAC Halos,Catz Zeta ballast boost on HIR high beams, Infiniti rear spoiler, rear upper window spoiler, 245/50/ZR18 tires, modded BMW 5 series hid fog projectors, burtman piano finish dash kit, X-pipe, removed rear muffler.Kenwood 150w powered sub.
    1999 XJ8 Jag VP 120k miles sold
    2007 Kia Sportage V6 LX

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