The Nissan and Infiniti Enthusiasts Site
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 43

Thread: '03 G35 Radio Problem. Speaker Noise Even When RadioTurned Off

  1. #21
    If this were mine I would take it to a radio shop. I would guess you would have to find the two wires near the amp, cut and connect to the speaker, to see if it is actually the amp or the wiring. What the shop can do in an hour or two might save you a lot of aggravation.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Indemand View Post
    If this were mine I would take it to a radio shop. I would guess you would have to find the two wires near the amp, cut and connect to the speaker, to see if it is actually the amp or the wiring. What the shop can do in an hour or two might save you a lot of aggravation.
    That's what I'd do next if it were my car. You've narrowed it way down - it's either the amp or the wiring between the amp & the speaker that's the issue. Shouldn't take a competent AV tech very long to isolate the "root cause" !
    2016 Challenger Hellcat, Max Steel/Blk - A8 trans, Navi, C Fiber Stripes
    2018 Durango R/T, Vice White/Blk, Tow, Blacktop pkg, Perf Tires
    2017 Honda Accord Touring V6, Basque Red Pearl/Ivory

    GONE:
    2003.5 G35s Caribbean Blue - Prem, Wood, Spoiler
    2009 G37 Vert Athens Blue/Bone - Prem, Sport, Nav
    2016 Mustang GT Prem, Guard/Ebony - Roush SC +++ ** Lmn Law 1200 mi
    2009 M45s Obsidian/Graphite - Sport, Tech, Adv Tech, Wood, Spoiler
    2007 Titan LE Crew Deep Water Blue
    2002 Q45s Desert Platinum

  3. #23
    Thanks guys. Probably will do that soon.

  4. #24
    Indemand, you were correct. Grounding problem between the amp and the rear driver side door speaker.

    I called a shop that handles repairs to these systems. Described symptoms. He stated most likely a grounding problem between the rear door driver side speaker and the amp. I think others either here or elsewhere may have mentioned that possibility. Those of you who did were/are correct. Pal who is better at this stuff than me ran a temporary bypass wire from the amp to the rear driver side speaker. All static/noise/audio problems cleared up. All speakers incl. rear door driver side played the radio properly.

    Unfortunately, I then tried to load a CD into the changer, and the disc went in, but then refused to either load properly, or eject, giving me the "cd error F0". Now even with the switch completely off and the key out of the ignition the head unit continually keeps trying to eject the CD. I have disconnected the battery from the neg. terminal once already for about an hour, to no avail. I left it disconnected overnight and will hook it up again shortly.

    If that CD will just "eject", I swear I will never put another one in there and won't give a damn. I just want to be able to hook the battery back up, get rid of the "constant eject" problem, and be able to drive my car without other issues.

    At this point I hate bose/clarion and Infiniti. : )

    Is there any easy way to remove power from the head unit while maintaining the HVAC and Nav functionality?

  5. #25
    Well, pulling the kick panel "Radio" fuse did not turn off the head unit or stop the "constant eject" problem.


    Is there any easy way to just disable the entire audio unit without losing HVAC Controls?

    At this point I don't care if I never hear music in that car again.

  6. #26
    Seems extreme with the total disconnect but the easiest way would be to disconnect the connector at the rear of the head unit.

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Indemand View Post
    Seems extreme with the total disconnect but the easiest way would be to disconnect the connector at the rear of the head unit.

    Thank you for your reply.

    Will the AC/Heat controls still work if I disconnect at back of the head unit? Do I still have to take the console, clock, glovebox and driver side right hand "knee" panel out to disconnect the unit at the rear like I would to remove the entire head unit?

    Thanks for any help.

  8. #28
    I don't know for sure. The HVAC is controlled by the BCM module. I would assume you have a separate power connector to the radio though. I think you can find a better solution then tearing your car apart to fix the radio. What did the person you took it to have to saay?

  9. #29
    Geespot - sent you a PM that might help, there is more than 1 fuse for the headunit !
    2016 Challenger Hellcat, Max Steel/Blk - A8 trans, Navi, C Fiber Stripes
    2018 Durango R/T, Vice White/Blk, Tow, Blacktop pkg, Perf Tires
    2017 Honda Accord Touring V6, Basque Red Pearl/Ivory

    GONE:
    2003.5 G35s Caribbean Blue - Prem, Wood, Spoiler
    2009 G37 Vert Athens Blue/Bone - Prem, Sport, Nav
    2016 Mustang GT Prem, Guard/Ebony - Roush SC +++ ** Lmn Law 1200 mi
    2009 M45s Obsidian/Graphite - Sport, Tech, Adv Tech, Wood, Spoiler
    2007 Titan LE Crew Deep Water Blue
    2002 Q45s Desert Platinum

  10. #30
    Mike and Indemand, thanks again for all your help; here is an update. Instead of typing it all again I copied excerpts from some PMs I sent Mike after he sent me some info in a PM.

    excerpts from PMs to Mike D.

    Thanks to you Mike, I actually found and pulled the fuse #37 from the "under the hood" box, and it did kill the CD player for me. Also killed the climate controls, alarm and Navigation. So I put the fuse back in, set the Climate Control to 68 and then pulled the fuse again.

    I can live with it like it is until I get it repaired. At least now I don't have to disconnect my battery terminal every night. : )

    As far as I could tell none of the fuses in the kick panel box would stop the constant CD eject problem. I pulled the one marked Radio on the kick panel fuse cover, and all three marked Acc, and the Cd still kept trying to eject even with the car turned off and key completely removed from the ignition.

    WRT what's next.......

    I have a buddy that used to put in car stereos for a living. He told me he would do free install and had me talked into after market head unit so I went to Crutchfield looking at Dash Kits, stereos adapters, steering wheel control modules and I was ready to jump when I happened to notice....



      • When you install a new car stereo, you'll have to remove the factory navigation screen and replace it with a pocket (available from your dealership).



      • When you replace the factory radio, the factory navigation feature won't work anymore.



      Arrrrrghhhhh!!!

      So I can get a double din radio with Nav built in, but that will run double to triple what I had planned to spend for the radio part of this replacement. Mike, your idea about trying to clip the CD player wires sounds decent, though I did find a video showing how to remove stuck CDs after you get the head unit out. IF that would stop the constant eject problem then I would still have Radio and (don't laugh) Cassette usable along with original Nav.

      I got some thinking to do here. Even with the cost of a Nav double din unit I am looking at 1.5. to 2 "new car" payments, so it doesn't hurt so bad when you look at it like that. But definitely some decisions to make.



  11. #31
    Sounds like you need to focus on getting the cd out. I wish I new a trick that didn't involve a sludge hammer.

  12. #32
    Shomething like this might be a less expensive alternative:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-20...757604&vxp=mtr

    These guys have just the CD unit and also do repairs (scroll to the bottom of the ad):

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-Infiniti-...3D161139452753

    If you buy just the CD make sure the part #'s match as they made a Bose and a non-Bose system. I believe the units were the same for the '03 & '04 model runs.
    2016 Challenger Hellcat, Max Steel/Blk - A8 trans, Navi, C Fiber Stripes
    2018 Durango R/T, Vice White/Blk, Tow, Blacktop pkg, Perf Tires
    2017 Honda Accord Touring V6, Basque Red Pearl/Ivory

    GONE:
    2003.5 G35s Caribbean Blue - Prem, Wood, Spoiler
    2009 G37 Vert Athens Blue/Bone - Prem, Sport, Nav
    2016 Mustang GT Prem, Guard/Ebony - Roush SC +++ ** Lmn Law 1200 mi
    2009 M45s Obsidian/Graphite - Sport, Tech, Adv Tech, Wood, Spoiler
    2007 Titan LE Crew Deep Water Blue
    2002 Q45s Desert Platinum

  13. #33
    Right now I have a double din Jensen unit with Nav built in, larger screen that comes in my car, a dash kit and all adapters except the Steering Wheel Control module - in my Cart at Crutchfield. The Jensen "claims" to come steering wheel control ready for "most" cars. Here is the unit

    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_110VX70...en-VX7020.html

    Mike at Crutchfield says it comes compatible with the 2003 G35 with no Steering Wheel Control Adapter Kit necessary. What say you guys?

    All this will run me $500 and my pal will install it all free. I will of course feed him a nice steak dinner at the very least.

    Finally, Wrathernaut on G35Driver says Grubbs Infiniti makes a Dash kit where you can keep the factory Nav (minus Voice feature) and still install a new Double Din unit like the one I linked. Have you guys any knowledge/experience with this?

    And again, Thank you both/all for your help.
    Last edited by GeeSpot; 07-05-2014 at 08:36 PM.

  14. #34
    Just my opinion but I would stay factory as long as possible or keep the option open to return it to factory. No idea what the value of your car is and the age though. At some point when the cars value is diminished enough it won't matter.

  15. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Indemand View Post
    Just my opinion but I would stay factory as long as possible or keep the option open to return it to factory. No idea what the value of your car is and the age though. At some point when the cars value is diminished enough it won't matter.

    Thanks again, and LOL at your sledge hammer comment above. I sure considered using a rubber mallet, but I do not want to aggravate that precious circuit board that still runs my AC/Heat and Security anymore than I have to. : )

    This is a 2003. KBB used private party estimate is around $7000 for "fair" condition. I also have a 20 year old Ford Taurus that still runs well. I tend to keep cars for a very long time and I only drive around 10,000 miles per year total, if that.

    To me ditching the problematic Bose head unit and adding a bigger Nav Screen with newer maps (I am still on 2003 maps on the factory Nav) and USB Thumb Drive and MP3/WMA CD and DVD options for media "seem" like a big plus for anyone looking to buy from me - if I ever sell it.

    I am so up on the fence with all this. One second I am ready to sink the $500-600 (less than 2 mo. of new car payment) and really "do it up", and next second I am back to the "pull the head, remove the CD and live with Radio and Cassette tape (I kept all of mine) til the next move is necessary" option.

    Or I could go buy a new car, but I hate to spend that money right now.
    Last edited by GeeSpot; 07-05-2014 at 08:38 PM.

  16. #36
    Never been big on aftermarket a/v stuff in cars. Typically pass on used cars that have that sort of thing, just no telling how much "redneck engineering" went into the install

    Is it a big deal on a 10+ year old car worth $7k, probably not for most of the likely pool of buyers. Not sure about the steering wheel controls working with aftermarket. I recall seeing threads where that was an issue in the past. Perhaps the newer units have got that figured out.

    If mine were to crap out, I'd either go with a rebuild CD like that ebay one or something from a boneyard or just get someone to snip the power to the CD player & live with the radio & cassette. As long as the HAVC controls, nav & radio still worked, I'd be happy.
    2016 Challenger Hellcat, Max Steel/Blk - A8 trans, Navi, C Fiber Stripes
    2018 Durango R/T, Vice White/Blk, Tow, Blacktop pkg, Perf Tires
    2017 Honda Accord Touring V6, Basque Red Pearl/Ivory

    GONE:
    2003.5 G35s Caribbean Blue - Prem, Wood, Spoiler
    2009 G37 Vert Athens Blue/Bone - Prem, Sport, Nav
    2016 Mustang GT Prem, Guard/Ebony - Roush SC +++ ** Lmn Law 1200 mi
    2009 M45s Obsidian/Graphite - Sport, Tech, Adv Tech, Wood, Spoiler
    2007 Titan LE Crew Deep Water Blue
    2002 Q45s Desert Platinum

  17. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeD View Post
    Never been big on aftermarket a/v stuff in cars. Typically pass on used cars that have that sort of thing, just no telling how much "redneck engineering" went into the install

    Is it a big deal on a 10+ year old car worth $7k, probably not for most of the likely pool of buyers. Not sure about the steering wheel controls working with aftermarket. I recall seeing threads where that was an issue in the past. Perhaps the newer units have got that figured out.

    If mine were to crap out, I'd either go with a rebuild CD like that ebay one or something from a boneyard or just get someone to snip the power to the CD player & live with the radio & cassette. As long as the HAVC controls, nav & radio still worked, I'd be happy.
    Thank you Mike. I can definitely see your point about possible problems from the aftermarket install/installer.

    This little problem is causing me too many headaches.

  18. #38
    I'd just get the new one and keep it so the old radio can go back in later if someone wants it. You will definitely be moving up a decade in technology like USB and streaming.

  19. #39
    I am leaning toward the double din Nav Jensen with the Crutchfield/Metra Dash Kit. There is a modification to make the Factory Nav still fit, but I may consider pulling the factory Nav and having a pal sell it on Amazon or ebay.

    http://www.crutchfield.com/S-4frFjUQ...en-VX7020.html

    Main lean is leave the Factory Nav in too though. I will save the factory radio, or if I can get any money for it maybe sell it. I will probably keep this car 3-4 more years at least if it holds up. I am at about 99,000 miles right now. I have 2 cars and only drive around 10k miles at max per year.

  20. #40
    I called Infiniti today, and if the dude was on the right page the "coin pocket" that would go in the hole left by pulling the Nav is ridiculously high for a little plastic cubby. Cheapest one he had was $120 plus tax, and he wasn't even sure that was the right color.

    I have a pal who runs a body shop and he said he would check around and see if he could find the part at a junkyard for me and see what they want for it/if he can even turn one up. So if I can't access a cheap "coin pocket" I will definitely have to leave the factory Nav in place.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •