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Thread: Final Build: LSx + 4l80e + Turbo Nissan 240sx "What was I thinking"

  1. #21
    Administrator Kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
    Halp, my car has a fuel infection

    So now I was ready to mate the newly installed fuel hardline with the new fuel system. Before this car could make any power it would need a fuel pump and some good injectors.

    The highest quality injectors I could find at a reasonable price turned out to be fuel injector clinic.
    I got a great deal, bargained for a student discount, and a couple other incentives.

    Naturally I placed the highest flowing of the set on cylinders #7 and #8, mostly superstition I guess

    Of course make sure you solder near open fuel lines for highest heart rate rush

    Remember to grease up the O-rings !

    So here is the pump I wound up with, another great deal I couldn't pass. Aeromotive stealth. 750hp forced induction capable they say.
    Notice I only use high quality 'breeze' stainless hose clamps.

    This picture is to remind us which direction the fuel sock must face when the pump is installed into the vehicle!

    SO here is the original fuel lines/hat setup. The factory uses rubber hoses that wrap around the tank.

    lol I used both clamps on the fuel pump feed because hey, why not

    For the fuel pump wiring I decided not to use solder, it just seemed like a bad idea.
    So I found these gasoline compatible crimp connectors, with some kinda 'vulcanizing' (heat shrinkable) ability.

    So above we saw the factory lines are simple rubber wrapping around the tank.
    I found this S15 tank topper that had the opposite direction for fuel lines (One of my friends just happened to have a spare he didn't need)
    and ran some braided hose exactly the same way the rubber lines were done from the factory, but on the other side (away from heat).
    I wrapped them in protective rubber/tubes just like wiring to keep them from contacting anything. Most of us know what happens when stainless hose vibrates on other objects (it ruins both the object and the hoses).

    Notice I didn't use any AN fittings anywhere in my fuel system (Okay, I admit I have ONE and its a RUSSEL on the fuel rail)
    Clamped braided hose like this is track legal, and it eliminates any chance of AN fittings coming loose or leaking fuel etc...
    Far more simple and easy to deal with also.

    For now, I set it up so that all the lines and regulator are easy to access. In the future I will put a 90* on the line and hide the filter etc...
    but for now i Wanted it all very accessible for service just in case I wanted to change something.
    You can also see the one AN fitting in the system, on the rail. It was necessary to mate the rail to the fuel line, there is really no other option there.

    After you do this sort of work, run the fuel system in a quiet place with no wind. That way you can smell fuel if there are any leaks.
    I crawled all along the car, under and over, inside and out, smelling for gasoline which has a strong odour we are familiar with, while the fuel pump ran.
    Quiet just helps listening for things that should not be making noise.
    Control systems processing
    RNA splicing

  2. #22
    Administrator Kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
    Spark plugs

    Around 7k miles I put in the new injectors/pump. I had been driving on unknown injectors (LS1 or something) and had put the plugs through hell, so to speak, what with all the tuning and fooling around with what is/was a new computer system. I made a post on HPtuners about it

    It's always good to get other opinions, and even better when those match yours I suppose.
    Here are the plugs with 7k,

    They looked pretty good to me. A little anti-seizy but I think thats mostly from handling on the way out.
    The plugs take about 30 minutes to change. Even so, I'm so lazy I never even checked them once. its been a maintenance free monster because that is what I wanted.
    I LOVE plug access. I would not have done this swap if the plugs were difficult to get to.
    Luckily OEM manifolds support like, oh I don't know, around 800rwhp+ and have easy plug access. What more can you want from a V8 in a random chassis?

    even with school pressing down... I still managed to get a bypass installed right after the compressor (The way it should be) thanks again Kiko.
    It works F@#*(@# FANTASTIC, very tight and very responsive. Now I can finally start turning up the boost without damaging the poor turbo (it is one of the keys to maximize the lifespan of the turbo)

    I figured it was time to get an alignment and put some decent suspension parts on the car. I did the tie rods, struts, strut mounts, lower control army bushings,
    ball joints, TC rods, probably some other stuff I forgot about. Pretty much everything in the front end needed to be changed, and it wasn't very expensive.
    I used all OEM parts (I mean, KYB AGX I consider pretty much an OEM strut)
    And of course I can't do everything myself- Thanks, Stephan, for aligning the car.

    Now it drives like a Cadillac.... Escalade :D (5.3 humor)

    You might be wondering why all the colors, paint, etc...
    couple reasons. One is, I am not sure what color I want things yet. What theme for the engine bay? I have a couple ideas but I needed to see some color on it first to help me decide. Another reason is... its basically free to paint with cheap paint which will also wash off with water if necessary, and I was bored (hard to imagine but yeah I get bored at night when I can't work on the car).
    A third reason is, I was concerned about the temperature under the hood, and putting some paint with a very low tolerance to temp would help me see if anything was getting too hot. Basically the paint would run and I would notice that right away. It gets runny around 240-250*F I think.

    I try the paint on lots of different parts. I noticed I could actually paint several things that normally wouldn't be very colorful... like the hoses for example.
    Its just a start of course. Eventually I will pick a theme and basically paint (or powder coat) and shield/cover everything in the engine bay

    Rear End Fun :D

    To handle all the torque and 500+hp there is only one solution for the IRS of 240sx that doesn't cost a fortune.
    It was surprisingly easy to find. In fact I found two at once.
    In case you don't know already... This is from a 90's (I already forgot the year ranges) Q45 (V8 car), basically an indestructible, wheel stand capable, 32-spline axles, etc etc &c
    Same differential as in the 300ZX I believe.
    I had never seen one before. And no, it didn't fit in the Corolla. I took a cheap Corolla to pick this up and I had it hanging out the side of the car for a couple miles, in the rain.
    It got the back of the Corolla so filthy I was afraid I would have to burn it. Gear oil plus 20 year old grease is a GREAT combo. for um

    The most important thing is the ratio... right around 3.5:1 iirc is just about perfect for 130-140mph trap speeds, 10 second quarter miles and highway cruise economy, a sweet blend of everything in an easy to install and extremely reliable package. A large benefit of Nissan lineages IRS appears to be this interchange of parts between similar vehicles, offering V8 quality differentials in cars originally equipped with 4-cylinders.

    To get this thing to mate the driveshaft (The Sikky piece) drill the flange. only a couple minutes. I put driveshaft flange on to make the holes center.
    Some made the mistake of removing that bolt in the center. You can't just bolt it back on that easy. Its complicated and unnecessary.

    I prefer simple and easy. The non-abs extension differential was same length as the OEM unit.

    A shot inside the diff was difficult to take but worth it. I love how these things basically never wear out.
    I used Amsoil's best synthetic gear oil in this thing to give it a fighting chance.

    how exhaust looks now?
    I love how it came out, very straight and easy to remove, its just perfect. Wireless cutout is amaaaazing
    This my friend weppa shop btw. He let me use his lift for the differential.
    The diff made it much happier. A stock V8 wants a bit of load at 2500rpm, ya know? Poor thing couldn't get a grip...

    This one is from 'fluid mechanics' course I took during the summer to fill some gaps. I had always wanted to take this course (I didn't even 'need' it)
    but doing so really did help. I did very well :D
    I think this pic is near the end, prof is showing us dimensional analysis techniques which can applied to almost anything.

    One of my favorite things about HPtuners (OEM ECU stuff) is all the options you get. This one wire connects to a momentary switch which enabled a second transmission map in the computer. This way, I have one map for normal driving, and one for... well, whatever.
    The second map can change almost anything about the trans behavior, shift pressure (firmness), timing (delay), torque management, shift speed/rpm.
    I found it extremely handy recently to keep from having to fool with the shifter. For example normally when driving the car goes from 1st to 2nd very early, even at 40-50% throttle position it will shift early to try and conserve fuel. I tuned the car this way on purpose... to conserve fuel of course.
    however, sometimes you want to step on the gas lightly but not have the trans shift. Most people would pull the shift lever back to "1st gear" and then manually shift to 2nd, etc..
    But I find that tedious, annoying, unnecessary. So instead, for now at least, I set my second map up so that it wouldn't shift so early from 1st or 2nd, that way instead of having to touch the shift lever and worry about shifting manually etc... I just smack (I'm rough with stuff to break it if its going to break) the button on my console and WHAM I have an ideal map for... rolling into 1st without having to worry about when to shift, hitting a limiter, or having it shift early, etc... Its just way better for me. And easier.

    I also experimented with paint on the exterior a little.
    Okay, a lot.
    I just want to paint all over the car like a kid I guess. But subtle.
    I saw some really good looking stripes on a car from magazine so I attempted to capture just a little of that essence here.
    I think it came out good considering its a washable, $1 paint from walmart and I did it in the dark.

    I feel it really gives a personalized taste for no cost... how can that be wrong?

    This is just a shot of the yolk spacing at the trans, a critical distance some would say.
    Luckily I didn't need to cut the driveshaft or rebalance it... ever. I simply took the Sikky driveshaft they provide for the 4l60e,
    then had a professional place put on the correct yolk. It needed some kind of "counter boring" I think they drilled down the center some distance for the 4l80e.
    And walaa... It just happened to be the perfect distance for me. Good news for those of you wondering about that sort of thing.

    This was my first and only parts failure so far, and it was kind of funny. I came out to the car from class, and looked under it like I am often want to do...
    And saw a puddle of oil.
    "UGH" I thought. Immediately my thoughts went to the rear main seal I had some recently "@#)(*# did the rear seal fail already?"
    I didn't want to believe the seal had failed. My work is... well lets just say I've never had an issue with my process.
    I prayed it was the oil pressure switch and popped the hood and... it was!

    This thing never worked to begin with. Something was wrong with it... I guess this is why... it was full of oil and had finally 'popped'.
    Luckily I was carrying a replacement fitting for the back of the engine. I have many spare parts like that I carry around while building the car so that when stuff like this happens I am prepared. It took 30 minutes to pull this thing out and re-route the oil line and get back on the road.

    Shielding video
    Here is a video i made to help you understand how I determine where needs shielding, more or less.
    Most of it is doubled up, there are two pieces of shield with air space between them in most places as the most effective measure.

  3. #23
    Administrator Kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
    Heres the magazine picture I saw that made me try those stripes. I figured if I really like something I can always get a more permanent version of it done.
    otherwise, wash it right off.

    At some point I pulled the panels off and greased up the window motor regulators, and applied anti seize to the door locks.
    Now everything is super smooth and I think it will last a lot longer. I also did the trunk lock. Man that anti seize really made a major difference.

    Just a progress shot with a little hue adjustment. Photoshop is useful for seeing how some things would look without actually doing those things.
    Notice the hose is colored in the picture. That is paint on the rubber hose, not a photoshop effect.
    Since the water is around 180* in the hose the paint doesn't melt... it actually lasted a very long time (until I flushed the radiator which I do frequently because I am trying to get the water to look crystal clear before I swap to the correct radiator and make a cover, seal up the support and remove edges)

    Intercooler plumbing
    in case you are wondering, I love doing intercooler pipe. I've done at least thirty cars myself, from Toyota, Nissan, Chevy, Ford, Volkswagon, just all kinds of stuff.
    Kiko let me use his shop for the first time and stay there by myself for a couple hours just this once.
    He has a bunch of really cool tools to make it easy.
    Heres a favorite- a small portable band saw.

    Belt sander for cleaning the outsides fast

    Naturally a carbide bit for cleaning the insides.
    I am a clean freak. I wash and clean and wash and clean until every last crumbly is gone, and the insides are smooth to the touch.

    I LOVE doing this. Lining up the pipes to make them fit perfectly. Placing clamps in easy to reach locations.
    making the system as user friendly as possible. Nothing to get cut, nothing to worry about, just secret sauce.

    I am thinking of putting the OEM wheels on all the way around for a complete stealth appearance. But first I want to make the interior look original, cosmetically finish the console, dash, and hide all the wires/computer/gauges.
    I will worry more about that when I finish some other stuff though. For now I just use whatever I got.

    People are always randomly asking me if I want to sell my stock zenki.
    Its pretty fun doing a smokey burnout with the roar of a V8 engine before they can finish their sentence. (I've never done a real intentional burnout with this car its just a joke lol)

  4. #24
    Administrator Kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
    iirc I wrote this around 7-24-18

    Its been a couple weeks now at 5psi. I've been just driving and turning the controller up one click at a time from 3.5 to almost 5.5 now. One of the things that was important to me in this build is the re-use and service life of specific OEM parts. Since it was my first LS engine, some things you just have to try and see. One of those items was the re-use and analysis of factory exhaust manifold gaskets in a daily/abuse setting. The sr20det OEM multi-layer manifold gaskets are very high quality and prevent you from "searching" for a solution, for example.

    In order to appreciate the ability of a part it needs to be tested in more than one way. Everytime somebody re-uses a head gasket and Torque to yield head bolts they are 'testing a part a certain way that isn't identical to the way it was originally created and used'. In this case, I not only wanted to test the OEM manifold gaskets, I wanted to re-use some, and in a way that they were not originally created for. Furthermore, if I had installed a pair and immediately turned the engine up to 20psi and blew the gaskets, I wouldn't have any long-term data regarding them (or other parts for that matter) at lower, more 'normal' daily driver power levels. The whole point of turbocharging for a 'false atmosphere' is the electronic boost control of being able to turn it down when you don't need every last scrap of juice, and all the way up when you do without moving from the driver seat.

    By driving the car for 15,000 miles with factory exhaust gaskets (and intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets) re-used and no incidents I have confirmed at least one thing. If I turn the boost up now and have an incident with a gasket I will now know that it is much more likely to do with the increased exhaust gas pressure than simply wear or installation related of the gasket. In other words, if I had put the gasket on and turned engine power up right away, and the gasket blew, how would i know it wasn't due to my gasket installation? The same thing goes for a wide variety of parts (coils, wires, plugs, pumps, gaskets/seals, etc...) now which have survived, if not flourished under the daily driving conditions which can be brutal to some high output installations.

    Some classic examples of systems which tend to fail in high output installations are:
    brake master cylinder (melts in some installs and causes a fire)
    oil control / baffle systems (results with oil leaks and oil mists)
    axles/differential/clutch/shafts can fail
    cooling/radiator/fans system can become inadequate
    exhaust and intake gaskets are often untested and leak
    oil pickup / oil volume flow can become inadequate and starve the engine
    transmission internals and fluid temperature can get out of hand
    engine exhaust gas temperature can escalate to the point of damaging components such as starters and pistons, or start a fire, or melt parts
    belt systems/accessories can fly apart at high speed (the plastic PS pump pulley is known for this) and the belt can throw
    ...add ur favorites

    In building a car I give each system careful consideration and decide what would be the easiest. Essentially the most trouble free solution. If no such solution exists I come up with one or I don't do the swap.
    For the most part, before I even started buying parts for this build, I already knew what would work right out of the box. For example, I knew the OEM Q45 differential and axles would take the abuse, and there are no affordable custom solutions for handling torque of this nature, so without this OEM part to run to for reliability I would never have attempted this swap.
    The same goes for the transmission. A reliable OEM unit that won't mind insane torque values. After all, it was designed for some kinda 6500lbs diesel truck or whatever.
    And the list goes on. The oil pan I used was actually tested in this car, and has special trapdoors to prevent oil starvation (oil cant leave the center but it can flow into the center). The pulley and belt system is reliable at high rpm. The pcv system seems adequate so far at controlling oil. What I presume are the original, used, 1998 intake gaskets that came to me in the LS intake manifold are still in there and don't leak (yet haha). In fact even the starter is a 1998-1999 unit with unknown (probably 150-200k) mileage and seems to still have some life left. Yes I have a spare starter, new intake gaskets, new exh gaskets, I even have spare rear main seal, plug wires, plugs, fuel pumps, and balancer bolts. Of course it is good to prepared. The key here however is to see how long and how far you can go with the OLDEST parts, the longest lasting parts, get the most mileage from them. I want 35-50k from my plug wires for example. Keeping maintenance costs low is a key to budget daily drivers that you actually want to drive for long distance, many many miles. Also being able to put cheap gas (87 octane) helps. These engines run fine on 87, they have a low octane map which isn't even used in my tune. One of the things I learned a long time ago about forced induction engines is to let the boost do the work, not the timing. So when I put 87 in the tank I just keep the boost all the way down (3.5psi) and it basically runs like a stock engine would (plus maybe 20-35 horses). You have to reflect upon the fact that the stock truck engine has a stock truck camshaft, which will generate an incredible VE (peak torque), perhaps higher and sooner than it would with a real camshaft. That means its actually less safe on 87 octane than it would be with a cam upgrade. If you consider that the Original engineers KNOW about the super-high-ve spot when they designed these engines, you have to also consider that their allowance for safety factor of high temperatures (IAT & CT which typically pulls fuel and timing) puts that super high stock-cam VE situation at enormous risk when using poor fuels as 87. also consider that they knew that some of these engines would be run at sea level which has the full 1atmosphere of density. And finally the fact that this engine was intended for a TRUCK which could be pulling a heavy load, lowering the rate of change of RPM and creating higher peak pressures in the combustion chamber. Put it all together and you get the compression ratio of the stock engine: low enough to be safe on 87 in extremely hot, poor conditions at sea level while towing something. Some variance is included, lets say +/- 10% in cylinder pressure is to be anticipated (especially if you started putting N/A mods on the engine such as headers, valve changes, cam swap, intake mani) which can additionally raise VE at sea level. Thus the compression ratio was chosen appropriately to provide this truck with enough safety factor that it will still run great due to all these variances, a couple psi of boost is just another small unnoticed change to such an engine with such a conservative tune and conservative compression built in to the parts. And even still there is the addl. factor of high mileage, whereby now the compression is even lower than it was when new.
    Basically I expect at least 320hp on 87 octane without being anywhere near trouble. And all that torque...

    At $2/gallon and 300hp Its still extremely fun to drive on low, it always has more than enough torque to raise the front noticeably or set the car sideways from a stop.
    The noise it makes is as fun as the power, and hearing a turbine whistle on demand is always welcome.
    I think what this all boils down to is that I really wanted a truck, but they wouldn't let me have one here so I went back to the 240 for a few years.
    I actually bought a truck to put the V8 into (A tacoma) without realizing I couldn't keep it and had to store it at a friends house for a while then get rid of it.
    So its just a coincidence this turned out to be a 240. It was the next best thing after a truck for an idea for over 15 years I've wanted an LS in something ridiculous but dailyable and reliable. The truck is more practical though, seriously a bed to put stuff in!

    couple videos wouldn't hurt at this point I bet!

    Cutout and Bypass installation result

  5. #25
    Administrator Kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
    Around 8-22-18 my PhD core started and I wrote this up:

    Semester started today for me, Advanced strength of materials, adv control systems, all kinds of fun to focus on. So the last two weeks I finally had some real spare time to get some things done I've been wanting to do. But not too much :D

    One of the things i did was connect the wideband to the HPtuners scanner, so I can log the a/f ratio while driving and go back to check it later. The way I've BEEN tuning is basically by driving the car and then trying to remember where it was lean or rich (I'm pretty good at that) but my lazy method is no match to actually logging the wideband accurately then reviewing the situation painstakingly for hours making minute changes to fine tune the engine.

    Key word here is 'fine tune' and HPtuners 2-bar OS does not support real-time mapping which makes it difficult to remember where the engine was lean or rich 20 minutes later sitting inside at a table and then re-upload the map. On the other hand the result is often superior when using data-logging when instruments are logging how you think they are in specific frames. No sense wasting 10-15 hours reviewing logs and making changes if your just going to change injectors or something the next day or if the logs don't have data presented the way you need it. So while I still technically need a cam, I might not cam this engine, I think I want something lighter or smaller. For now,I can't just wait around forever and not tune it till I decide to change the cam or not; I decided to knock this out while i had the time, get over the lack of real time tuning and spend the time to dial it in the only other way that makes any sense.

    So here is my original map I've been driving on for months and months "un-tuned". this is the first log more or less I took with the hptuners scanner. I tuned it this way be "feel".
    It was fairly close but definitely needed fine tuning. I was being a bit too conservative with fuel, it wasn't knocking or anything but it definitely picked up a bunch of torque and responseright through the mid-range with the extra fuel, it seems to run great between 12.8 to 13.0 approaching 0psi. The knock sensors do work and from time to time they did help me remove 3 to 5 degrees from some of the mid-load regions of the map where it had 25* or something and really needed more like 20*.

    Now here is it after a day or two of fine tuning, still not done but much more well tuned

    Here are the changes I made to the VE map in order to 'fine tune' the engine

    Now that is some fine tuning. Here is the VE map before and after as well:

    After fine tuning for ~1 day:

    And even more fine tuning later....

    In an effort to boost the voltage at the battery and in the car I also changed my alternator and made a small shield for it, and upgraded the wire for it.

    Finally in order to fine tune, or rather what kick started my fine tuning, was the addition of an IAT sensor and appropriate shielding for the intake tube:

    I added a couple shields. I will show more shielding once I get a little more of that done also. I just like to finalize some things before I start showing them. Like that silly radiator tap for the steam port; it needs to be a welded fitting ideally. But I need to replace the radiator anyways because the orange water coming out of the truck engine is disgusting inside it. I've been flushing it monthly until it turns back to normal color, then I'll buy a new radiator and do the radiator shroud, hold-down/core support cover, final radiator duct work and overflow container all at once. It will be marvelous haha.

    I can't wait to color that intake pipe by the way. The right way, probably real powder coat. But to do that I need to park the car for a couple days and I just can't bring myself to stop driving it... >:D
    Actually quite a few things need powder coated so I am just waiting to do all of them at once (need other things first though, like A/C)

    Plans are focus on school, collect A/C parts and drive the heck out of it. Is it faster now that its tuned? Heck yes. I think it gained 20-30 horse and definitely gets up and goes quicker. Its starting to have that familiar 'pull' feeling that I love so much.

    What else can I say. Rock solid reliability I put 1000 miles on it since last month. I did a highway drive economy cruise the other day and get 22-23mpg with about 120lbs extra in the car luggage, mid-day Florida sun shining 70mph highway. It will do better in the future but for now this is pretty nice, almost back to what the stock KA24DE engine gets on the highway (25mpg with automatic)

    Tuning progression video

    The first run:

    So about 7psi of boost, notice that even with only 2-3psi of boost spooling in first the tires are already near their limits. Part of that is because the high cylinder VE due to the stock camshaft still being in the motor. When I finally install a proper camshaft the cylinder VE will drop in those regions (2400-3400) and the head/valve will flow more allowing more boost to make less torque in the low-rpm ranges where I want to spool the turbo and not blow the tires off. The reason it rises so slow and gently is because I have a large gate 44mm and using the weakest 3psi spring. With a heavier spring it should come on much faster and harder but all I have is street tires so this weak onset is actually tire sparing.
    Most of my drives are 40minutes to 2 hours. I'm going to work on the A/C system next and enjoy it at 7-8psi for a while.

  6. #26
    Administrator Kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
    Its hard to believe that its been almost 2 years since the motor showed up to the front door.

    take a minute and look back at some of the progress lists. Each time I think of some things to do, I write it down, like this:

    keep track of all work, future and past, to ensure hit every single thing and don't forget a critical step.

    also scratched up this silly drawing to help keep track of what the temperatures are in the engine bay. Thoroughly investigate each possible method for cooling, air paths, insulation, etc... the stuff that performance is made of, and often overlooked.

    In the above picture notice the intake manifold is being heated to 160*F and the intake pipe along with it. This causes the IAT in that region to heat soak at low speeds, such as idle in traffic. That is a pretty typical thing for all cars to do, and this makes very little difference for full throttle IAT since the air is moving too fast to absorb much heat from the hot plumbing. Although present, this is technically working as intended and could be left alone, and how factory engines are typically installed, since heating the air to a known temperature which is also warmed up will help atomize fuel and keep the engine working efficiently.

    However unimportant, I still like the idea of preventing low speed heat soak. Because the HP tuners software does not allow low-speed tuning of IAT air/fuel relationship, it automatically leans out if the air temp rises while sitting in traffic. Which is fine, I guess. It should just make the cam even more pronounced but that remains to be seen *(7/1/19-10/1/19)

    One work around for real-time IAT adjustments is the variable resistor I added to the IAT wire, simply turn the knob to falsely high IAT reading.
    However this was hardly a true 'solution' to the real problem of hot intercooler plumbing and a hot intake manifold.
    While there is not much I can do for the intake (160*F is actually a nice temp to keep it in the first place on gasoline) there might be something I can do for the intercooler pipe.
    I've added a shield which also acts as an water reservoir, and a vacuum line containing water which is then shot at the pipe and collects into the shield, excess runs off onto the balancer which also thrives on cooling and cool temperatures. The pump is a $1 ebay unit so the total cost for this system is less than $5. A 555 timer circuit runs the pump for a brief period then shuts it off, and a PWM controller sets the pump flow, I have the circuits made on a bread board but haven't put them on their own PCB yet. Additionally, water is sent to the bellhousing, where it runs down to the starter apparently (it just randomly seems to want to flow that direction luckily), and also I have it going to the front of the car near the turbo area, to keep the vehicle chassis from going up in temperature much. In the sun next to a running engine, the temperature of the chassis is around 140*F. So I try to keep everything in that range max, and a heat tunnel is created for the parts which exceed that range (exhaust tubes) which insulate hot tubes from the rest of the 140*F (or less) areas, like where the air filter is.

    Next, just for fun, lets look at some mechanics and controls papers :D

    Do you mind me sharing

    For this build
    I have about 5GB of pictures, besides what is here. I only posted the most useful pics which explain quickly, to complete each section as fast as possible.
    So maybe in the future I might be able to upload the entire album and make that available somehow.

    ...might have time in the first weeks of school to get some more serious stuff done. I'm going to take another chunk out of that list.

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